951North

I just wanted to verify before I put in my parts order, this is what I will need to fix that pesky oil leak. Thanks

PET Illustration 103-05

#13 1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
#14 1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
#19 1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
#20 1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
#21 1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
#22 1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
#23 1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer)

Bri Bro

Add #9.

xsboost90

yeah thats what i was thinking too.

FRporscheman

I have never seen 13 when I do the job. I guess I completely forget to even look for it. But I always end up with that piece left over.

jerome951

I think the kits the Paragon, etc. sell include all of the necessary seals including the tower gasket (#3) and access hole seals (#6).

A couple words of caution/advice. Don't strip out the cheesehead bolt (#19). It's grade 10.9 and a bitch to drill the head off (BTDT). You will have to counter-hold the cam w/ a large wrench as that bolt is on tight. Whack the head a couple times w/ a hammer and punch to wake it up.
Also, my mylar washer (#23) was fused to the cam. Almost overlooked it and had to scrape it off w/ a screwdriver.

F18Rep

Here's a helpful pic provided by Granite944....Bruce

xsboost90

number 13 is the one that always leaks!

ehall

OT Arash, if that's you in your avatar, is that pic a before or an after the nuclear exploson?

FRporscheman

LOL, I knew I'd get questions about the avatar. It's some guy from www.hotchickswithdouchebags.com and I thought he would look funny with the nuke note.

Clearly, judging by the flash of light (note his shadow on the wall, the whooshed-back hair, and burned skin) this is during the blast.

Dan - dangit! I just always overlook that one and at the end of the day, I'm looking at that piece thinking where the hell it goes. I wonder if someone has real a pic of it, on the engine.

jerome951

Another tip I forgot to mention.
The 'connecting piece' in Bruce's picture was stuck in my case. I tried to pull and turn it w/ vice grips to no avail but roughed up the surface in the process. After I tapped it inward with a hammer, it broke free and I could pull it out w/ my fingers.

Kimple

Can you change these seals with cam tower still attached or timing belt rear cover in place? I'm doing this right now and it seems that I cannot remove the part #15 because rear belt cover is on the way. I'm afraid cover will break if I bend it enough to pull the cam sprocket housing.

Dave951

Kimple #15 should come off without removing the rear belt cover. Your going to want to remove the cam tower to do the seal job.

Kimple

I'm changing just the front seals. Other cam tower gaskets were done 2k miles ago, so I'm a bit lazy here. I thought I could do it with cam tower and rear belt cover in place because I followed the Clarks procedure:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cam-03.htm

951North

You shouldn't have to remove either cover to do the seals at the front.