Turbo Voltage Regulator Replacement...
01-20-2008, 08:00 PM
#1
Racer
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Turbo Voltage Regulator Replacement...
Symptoms = Electrical system would go between 12-14 volts, sometimes I'd have to rev the engine and then the charging system would be operational, usually for a short period of time.
Where I'm at = I removed the filter box + afm, intake boot, intercooler pipe, removed 3 of the 4 nuts for the "air" piping that goes to the alternator (was able to push it back far enough to gain access to the screws that hold in the voltage regualtor). I removed the old voltage regulator, it's completely worn. No wonder it wasnt charging, it wore through the two copper peices to a point where they barely-to-not at all contact.
What's next? The impossible??? I've read a few times on here that it simply CANNOT BE DONE without having to remove the alternator (unless you have the turbo out or most of the intake/god knows what else). I'm about an hour into it...
I'll post more when im done! (soon, dont worry
)
Where I'm at = I removed the filter box + afm, intake boot, intercooler pipe, removed 3 of the 4 nuts for the "air" piping that goes to the alternator (was able to push it back far enough to gain access to the screws that hold in the voltage regualtor). I removed the old voltage regulator, it's completely worn. No wonder it wasnt charging, it wore through the two copper peices to a point where they barely-to-not at all contact.
What's next? The impossible??? I've read a few times on here that it simply CANNOT BE DONE without having to remove the alternator (unless you have the turbo out or most of the intake/god knows what else). I'm about an hour into it...
I'll post more when im done! (soon, dont worry
)
01-20-2008, 11:15 PM
#2
Racer
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Okay guys, it can be done!
The book says to drain the coolant and from what I understand, remove the alternator.
I never had to drain the coolant, i disconnected the alternator power cable to get a better handle on things. I had to fit a drill into one of the holes (it happened to be the right size) to help line up the VR(voltage regulator) screw holes.
My hands are all scraped up on the backside due to the alternator ducting, but it was worth it.
I've just got to put the airbox on and i'll be done.
I got interrupted by both of the football games :-)
The book says to drain the coolant and from what I understand, remove the alternator.
I never had to drain the coolant, i disconnected the alternator power cable to get a better handle on things. I had to fit a drill into one of the holes (it happened to be the right size) to help line up the VR(voltage regulator) screw holes.
My hands are all scraped up on the backside due to the alternator ducting, but it was worth it.
I've just got to put the airbox on and i'll be done.
I got interrupted by both of the football games :-)
01-21-2008, 02:44 AM
#3
Racer
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She runs just fine :-) The replacement part looks a bit different than what came with the stock alternator, however it makes no difference
I will now be happy till something else breaks! :-D
I will now be happy till something else breaks! :-D
01-21-2008, 12:29 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Symptoms = Electrical system would go between 12-14 volts, sometimes I'd have to rev the engine and then the charging system would be operational, usually for a short period of time.
Where I'm at = I removed the filter box + afm, intake boot, intercooler pipe, removed 3 of the 4 nuts for the "air" piping that goes to the alternator (was able to push it back far enough to gain access to the screws that hold in the voltage regualtor). I removed the old voltage regulator, it's completely worn. No wonder it wasnt charging, it wore through the two copper peices to a point where they barely-to-not at all contact.
What's next? The impossible??? I've read a few times on here that it simply CANNOT BE DONE without having to remove the alternator (unless you have the turbo out or most of the intake/god knows what else). I'm about an hour into it...
I'll post more when im done! (soon, dont worry )
Where I'm at = I removed the filter box + afm, intake boot, intercooler pipe, removed 3 of the 4 nuts for the "air" piping that goes to the alternator (was able to push it back far enough to gain access to the screws that hold in the voltage regualtor). I removed the old voltage regulator, it's completely worn. No wonder it wasnt charging, it wore through the two copper peices to a point where they barely-to-not at all contact.
What's next? The impossible??? I've read a few times on here that it simply CANNOT BE DONE without having to remove the alternator (unless you have the turbo out or most of the intake/god knows what else). I'm about an hour into it...
I'll post more when im done! (soon, dont worry
)Loquat15 -
Were you having any other symptoms?
When I turn on my lights or fan, it dips down below 12. Any thing like that with yours?
01-22-2008, 02:31 AM
#7
Racer
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Pushing on the brake pedal would cause it to dip down, anything that would cause a drain would cause it to dip.
Lights, blower fan, windows... most likely stereo too but i didn't test it out.
I didn't clean the brush contacts... should have yes... but it works.
Something else is giving me some possible greif... it sees 14 volts at idle and will go up to 15 and nearly 16 volts while winding out the revs...
16 seems to be the upper max for the system so it has me a little concerned.
I noticed that on an H2 its upper range is 19 volts... holy hell!
anyways... we'll see what happens....
Lights, blower fan, windows... most likely stereo too but i didn't test it out.
I didn't clean the brush contacts... should have yes... but it works.
Something else is giving me some possible greif... it sees 14 volts at idle and will go up to 15 and nearly 16 volts while winding out the revs...
16 seems to be the upper max for the system so it has me a little concerned.
I noticed that on an H2 its upper range is 19 volts... holy hell!
anyways... we'll see what happens....
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01-22-2008, 12:23 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
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over 14.5 for very long will overcharge the batt and kill the alternator.
are you just looking at the gage or a decent dvm?
the gages can be inaccurate but can be calibrated to a dvm by a small set screw next to the gage.
87951
are you just looking at the gage or a decent dvm?
the gages can be inaccurate but can be calibrated to a dvm by a small set screw next to the gage.
87951
10-05-2012, 03:57 AM
#9
Intermediate
my symptoms were dimming headlights and at idle voltage meter would slowly go down and i would feel engine losing electrical power(it wants to shut off but the battery isnt letting it happen) until the battery just completely died and now the car doesnt start at all. no power whats so ever, i havent tried jumping it yet because i'de rather just fix the problem.... any ideas?
