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Caster block eccentric nut removal

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Old 01-07-2008, 01:05 PM
  #16  
Mike1982
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Can you replaced the caster block just by itself without doing an aligment? If I wanted to upgrade to the 968 is pretty much what I am asking.
Old 01-07-2008, 01:40 PM
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931guru
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1) Vise
2) 19 mm box end wrench
3) Big F$$$$king Hammer (bfh)
Old 01-07-2008, 01:41 PM
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Techno Duck
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Originally Posted by Mike1982
Can you replaced the caster block just by itself without doing an aligment? If I wanted to upgrade to the 968 is pretty much what I am asking.
I just did it on my 951 three nights ago. I think as long as you scribe the location of the old block and put the new one in at the same spot, you will not adversely change the alignment much. One could argue the previous alignment took into account the worn out rubber caster block, but honestly i am not to concerned about it.
Old 01-07-2008, 01:56 PM
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Julian Allen
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If it's really on that tight you can get a nut splitter (Sears should have the K-D version) and simply split the nut in half without damaging the threads on the castor eccentric.
Old 01-07-2008, 02:31 PM
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Ski
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Originally Posted by Mike1982
Can you replaced the caster block just by itself without doing an aligment? If I wanted to upgrade to the 968 is pretty much what I am asking.
give this page a look, I really like mine.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1074&catid=5
Old 01-07-2008, 10:18 PM
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Mike1982
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You really like yours Ski??? What do you mean by that?
Old 01-07-2008, 10:47 PM
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damn....that too!

Get it loose Tom?
Old 01-07-2008, 11:53 PM
  #23  
Tom M'Guinn

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No, it hates me. Used MAPP gas on it too. May try a nut splitter next, or just get another from Parts Heaven or some nice rennlister.
Old 01-08-2008, 12:24 AM
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Techno Duck
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I have a few of those floating around. I can mail them out to you this weekend when i get home if you want. Just $12 to cover the shipping and packing for two.
Old 01-08-2008, 12:29 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Thanks Jon, that's very nice of you. Let me see if I can make any progress by then, and I'll let you know.
Old 01-08-2008, 10:58 AM
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ibkevin
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Better yet, I'll return a favor.

I have a couple here and I'd be happy to do the hard part by making sure they are loose before shipping!
Old 01-09-2008, 12:45 AM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Well... I got it off. It dawned on me today that the threads are none other than M12 x 1.5 -- same as the stock head studs. So... tonight I got out my oft-promoted Snap-On serrated collet stud remover (CG500-49) and put a death grip on the other end. That, a few cheater pipes, did the trick. The thing popped like a crank bolt when it let loose.

I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.
Old 01-09-2008, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Well... I got it off. It dawned on me today that the threads are none other than M12 x 1.5 -- same as the stock head studs. So... tonight I got out my oft-promoted Snap-On serrated collet stud remover (CG500-49) and put a death grip on the other end. That, a few cheater pipes, did the trick. The thing popped like a crank bolt when it let loose.

I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.
yeah if i was you i would replace them as well because prob the threads have stretched as well



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