Caster block eccentric nut removal
#18
Nordschleife Master
I just did it on my 951 three nights ago. I think as long as you scribe the location of the old block and put the new one in at the same spot, you will not adversely change the alignment much. One could argue the previous alignment took into account the worn out rubber caster block, but honestly i am not to concerned about it.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If it's really on that tight you can get a nut splitter (Sears should have the K-D version) and simply split the nut in half without damaging the threads on the castor eccentric.
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No, it hates me. Used MAPP gas on it too. May try a nut splitter next, or just get another from Parts Heaven or some nice rennlister.
#24
Nordschleife Master
I have a few of those floating around. I can mail them out to you this weekend when i get home if you want. Just $12 to cover the shipping and packing for two.
#26
Defending the Border
Rennlist Member
Rest In Peace
Rennlist Member
Rest In Peace
Better yet, I'll return a favor.
I have a couple here and I'd be happy to do the hard part by making sure they are loose before shipping!
I have a couple here and I'd be happy to do the hard part by making sure they are loose before shipping!
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well... I got it off. It dawned on me today that the threads are none other than M12 x 1.5 -- same as the stock head studs. So... tonight I got out my oft-promoted Snap-On serrated collet stud remover (CG500-49) and put a death grip on the other end. That, a few cheater pipes, did the trick. The thing popped like a crank bolt when it let loose.
I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.
I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.
#28
Rennlist Member
Well... I got it off. It dawned on me today that the threads are none other than M12 x 1.5 -- same as the stock head studs. So... tonight I got out my oft-promoted Snap-On serrated collet stud remover (CG500-49) and put a death grip on the other end. That, a few cheater pipes, did the trick. The thing popped like a crank bolt when it let loose.
I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.
I may be paranoid, but it looks like the threaded end bent over a bit under all the torque -- and the nut seems to have lost all its lock-nut-ness. So I'd still much appreciate a replacement Kevin if you can spare it.