Eric_k

Beautiful work and an elegant solution. It will be interesting to see how it takes a hit and holds up long term.

I've taken a few hits on the front but fortunately for me the suspension has never been damaged. Fenders and wheels, yes. I could probably fold the car in half before the charlie arms give up. I even nailed a BMW I was lapping - just like your video.

sawood12

A very elegent solution. I always thing that the simplest engineering solution are often the most elegant and usually work better.

From the photos (if i'm reading them right) it looks like your front mount has been raised (i.e. to lower the car) but it looks like your castor mount has been moved inboard but not raised. Is this right and if so why is this? What advantage/benefit does having unequal length sides to your V arm have?

anders44

gotto love it hans, good thing you have done it before, so it's easy for you do do it again when I'm around

your car/widebody thread has spread to misc car forums over the world as well good work.

Jon Moeller

Not sure if it would help with clearances, but you can always tie the sway bar to the strut, rather than retaining the stock attachment point.

Very nice work. My only comment would have to do with the angle of the tie rods. I could be looking at it wrong, but it seems like you'd have some serious bumpsteer.

-Jon

HansB

That would be a "trompe d'oeil" as the French would say. It has exactly the same position as the original one, only then the caster block would have been mounted under the flange, now it is you could say "in" the flange.

HansB

Yes, agree, but where do I find such a sway bar? We just welded an attachment point so I could at least have a swaybar

It looks worse then it is, there is some left, some of the bushings will be adapted to fix the angle.

HansB

Can be done in about a week, so you would not need a long holiday!

adrial

I agree.

I believe that the cross-brace was originally used for composite tubs in Formula cars where you are trying to prevent the A-arm from punching right through and injuring the driver.

From there, it was probably one of those things where the next guy to design an a-arm said "well, that looks like a good idea...I'll do the same thing"

That setup looks really nice and exactly how a race car should look.

How can you grow the track by an inch without ending up with a ton of negative camber?

Landjet

Looks like a great solution, nice work. I wish our rules would allow us to do this type of modification.

HansB

Good Q! Luckily we have thought about that.
4 answers:

• It can vary by an inch an a bit, and it is set in a way, that when in future I would want to drive a larger rims size I could make it a bit shorter.
• I always run at least 3 deg negative camber.
• We have changed the strut in a way that we can kind of shim the original camber position to any of three what would have been fixed positive settings
• There is still some room left in the top camber plate.

One cm extra width is about one neg. degree of camber

HansB

Forgot to answer your Q. Yes, we had to cut in the frame a bit.

thingo

For the sway bar I don't think it would be too difficult to adapt a tarret sway bar(it is a straight torsion bar with a lever attached)

tommo951

Very impressive Hans!! Would love to see your car sometime. I do get over the Netherlands in the summer. I have gone with the Kokeln rear torsion delete too so may be after some set up tips!

HansB

Would be nice! Almost every Thursday you can drive on the Zolder circuit, just south of the Dutch border, provided you got a racers license. Perhaps an idea?

HansB

Looked at that, but I need one that is 6-8 inches longer. Do not know if they could make that.