Tilton Pedal Box
#1
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Tilton Pedal Box
hi
I am going to use tilton pedal assemblies(Throttle/Brake/Clutch) and three master cylinders. Two for brakes, one for clutch.
but I don't know how big the cylinders must be. one cylinder will be for Big Red/993TT brakes at front. and one will be for org 944 turbo brakes at rear.
third is for the org slave cluch cylinder.
anybody done this to a 951 with big red at front? how big bore in the master cylinders, with the spec I have? I can choose from .625 in bore and up..
It's gonna be nice not use the big brake booster in the engine bay!
all parts will be bought on summit racing.
here is the Tilton pedal assemblies
I am going to use tilton pedal assemblies(Throttle/Brake/Clutch) and three master cylinders. Two for brakes, one for clutch.
but I don't know how big the cylinders must be. one cylinder will be for Big Red/993TT brakes at front. and one will be for org 944 turbo brakes at rear.
third is for the org slave cluch cylinder.
anybody done this to a 951 with big red at front? how big bore in the master cylinders, with the spec I have? I can choose from .625 in bore and up..
It's gonna be nice not use the big brake booster in the engine bay!
all parts will be bought on summit racing.
here is the Tilton pedal assemblies
#2
Rennlist Member
So this is some freakoid Norweigen snuff puff movie site?? What the hell are you thinking man? GET A GRIP!!!!!
hi
I am going to use tilton pedal assemblies(Throttle/Brake/Clutch) and three master cylinders. Two for brakes, one for clutch.
but I don't know how big the cylinders must be. one cylinder will be for Big Red/993TT brakes at front. and one will be for org 944 turbo brakes at rear.
third is for the org slave cluch cylinder.
anybody done this to a 951 with big red at front? how big bore in the master cylinders, with the spec I have? I can choose from .625 in bore and up..
It's gonna be nice not use the big brake booster in the engine bay!
all parts will be bought on summit racing.
here is the Tilton pedal assemblies
I am going to use tilton pedal assemblies(Throttle/Brake/Clutch) and three master cylinders. Two for brakes, one for clutch.
but I don't know how big the cylinders must be. one cylinder will be for Big Red/993TT brakes at front. and one will be for org 944 turbo brakes at rear.
third is for the org slave cluch cylinder.
anybody done this to a 951 with big red at front? how big bore in the master cylinders, with the spec I have? I can choose from .625 in bore and up..
It's gonna be nice not use the big brake booster in the engine bay!
all parts will be bought on summit racing.
here is the Tilton pedal assemblies
#4
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#9
Three Wheelin'
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I would go with a 7/8 bore. we use the 5/8 on the midgets but we only have 2 calipers on the car the dirt. when we convert to asphalt we go 3/4 because we add one brake caliper. I installed a set of those in reverse mount in a eagle talon, it was quite a job, we shaved the firewall 100% smooth and did the rerverse mount pedals then made a acess panel in the top of the dash for the reservoirs. The air-water intercooler was also in the dash but in the pass side, pretty sick car.
#10
Formula One Spin Doctor
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The floor mount will require mods to the floorboard , you will need the top mount as suggested , as far as piston size you will need more than one set to get the brake feel to your liking. Tilton can give you a starting point based on caliper piston size , but past experiences have shown brake feel for me is not the same for you , most times changes are made due to the bias of the driver to pedal feel , my guess is you will end up with more than a few, until you get the pedal feel you are most comfortable with ...
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what mods to the floorboard do I have to do? I have tried my friends tilton pedals, floor mount as the pic show. just to see how it would look in my car. and I did not see any problem. only issue was that pedals came 1.5" closer to the seat, because the back end of master cylinders stopped in the firewall. but that is no big problem, if it gets to tight i just move the seat a little back.
I dont know, it just looks more easy with the floor mount. but then again, this is all new to me..
badcoupe: so you think I need as big as 7/8 bore? but I need different sizes to front and rear brakes right? and even smaller to clutch?
say I try .813 in. Bore to front big red bakes, .700 to rear brakes and .625 to clutch..
but as you say, I must mesure the front and rear caliper piston size, try one bore from there. and then see if I need more or less.
what happends if I have to big bore?
I dont know, it just looks more easy with the floor mount. but then again, this is all new to me..
badcoupe: so you think I need as big as 7/8 bore? but I need different sizes to front and rear brakes right? and even smaller to clutch?
say I try .813 in. Bore to front big red bakes, .700 to rear brakes and .625 to clutch..
but as you say, I must mesure the front and rear caliper piston size, try one bore from there. and then see if I need more or less.
what happends if I have to big bore?
Last edited by guards red 951; 12-24-2007 at 04:25 PM.
#12
Three Wheelin'
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the bore size will mostly just change the feel of the pedal evryone likes something different. what I gave you were just mere reccomendations on past experience. Also you can usually pick the setups up reasonable from ebay as NASCAR takeoff parts. They typically only use the stuff once. The clutch bore will def be the smallest 1/2 or 5/8 either way will work the rear brake cylinder can be smaller than the front as well. then you can get a bias bar to adjust the front rear bias on the fly. We just bought an IMCA modifed and it has a adjuster you turn to change front to rear bias on the fly as track conditions change. We sold out our midget program this last fall.
#13
Drifting
smaller bores =more pedal travel, softer pedal
bigger bores =less pedal travel, harder pedal.
The caliper piston area will help to determine what cylinder sizes to use. If you want to do this scientifically, find out what the bore size is on your factory setup, and/or get pressure readings during application. Then combine with the lever ratio of the pedal assembly to convert it over.
Of course, if you were inclined to do all the calcs you probably already knew how.
bigger bores =less pedal travel, harder pedal.
The caliper piston area will help to determine what cylinder sizes to use. If you want to do this scientifically, find out what the bore size is on your factory setup, and/or get pressure readings during application. Then combine with the lever ratio of the pedal assembly to convert it over.
Of course, if you were inclined to do all the calcs you probably already knew how.
#14
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Seriously, I wish you good luck on this. Why are you doing this though? Are you changing calipers/rotors too? Take pics when you do it and show us. I've wondered on the fitting for these as well.
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thank you for all answears! there are many reasons why I want to do it.
-I get more space in engine bay, and around turbo. Easyer to fix/change turbo.
-The car will have a full "WRC" roll cage welded all around, with tube/bars into the engine bay, to the shock towers. So brake booster and clutch master cylinder crash with cage.
-I get fluid for clutch and brakes in its own reservoirs
I will post pictures when I got the parts
-I get more space in engine bay, and around turbo. Easyer to fix/change turbo.
-The car will have a full "WRC" roll cage welded all around, with tube/bars into the engine bay, to the shock towers. So brake booster and clutch master cylinder crash with cage.
-I get fluid for clutch and brakes in its own reservoirs
I will post pictures when I got the parts