333pg333

So just remind me Travis, are your T-bars in or out? What are your spring rates?

DVC

Yes, the T-bars are out with 500lb springs. So far so good!

INURGRL951

Its good to see a post on these i got a brand new set in the box still i got back in feb to put on my 951. I was doin alot of lookin around and in my mind found these to be the best acorrdin to reviews, but my question is are the hard to dial in for streeet/ track use? I am keepin my t-bars and goin with 285lbs in the back and 340lbs in the front im thinkin with the t-bars still there that will kinda even out the front and back rates.

333pg333

They should come with a set spring rate if you got one of their Variant Packages. You will have to re-index your torsion bars too. Well worth it though.

DVC

Other than having to remove the rear coilovers to adjust the rebound damping, they are simple to setup.

Diver944

Because of the extreme close up, I am still not clear exactly what we are looking at???? Is that that the back of the camber aduster for the rear or the front of the car. It looks like the part that has bent is actually part of the car and not the strut (or am I seeing it wrong)

Rich Sandor

it's the camber eccentric for the front strut where it mounts to the spindle/hub assembly. The broken piece is on the KW strut.

Thom

FWIW I torque the two strut bolts to 100 N.m / ~37 lbs.ft (value as shown in the WM) on my Moton that don't even have any soldered lip on the strut for adjusting camber and they never came loose.

My point is, although this sort of failure is rather surprising for a TÜV-proven product, that this failure won't prevent from holding caster if tightened correctly with new self-locking nut, such as with the ones provided with the KW kit.

edited : the part in bold letters may be false (see my 2nd following post below)

Rich Sandor

THOM: Do you have to use camber plates to adjust the camber on the motons setup? or does it still have an elongated hole for camber adjustment on the strut?

Thom

The upper strut hole is oblong and I use Racer's Edge camber plates. The least negative camber value I can get is -1.5°.

wjk_glynn

You mentioned is appears to be a common issue.

Where else have heard about this failure?

Thanks.

Karl.

Thom

A guy over here had the same issue last year ...

I just got off the phone with a friend who came up with an interesting theory.

1) The self-locking nuts provided with the KW kit are Nylstop and may not withstand the stress put in the assembly under normal use, while Porsche nuts are fully metallic. The heat made by the brakes may cause ruining Nylstop nuts quicker too.

2) Unlike original Koni/Sachs struts, KW struts do not have the thin additional plate on the strut-steering knuckle bracket plates that may well distort when torquing the bolts/nuts to the 100 N.m value indicated on the WM and thus prevent any stress-induced movement of the strut vis-à-vis the steering knuckle.

This suggests that only Porsche nuts & bolts should be used as the one provided with the KW kit will loosen, and that perhaps the 100 N.m torque value may not be sufficient when using KW struts.

333pg333

I have a friend who is the Australian importer for KW. I will direct him to this thread and see what he thinks.

George D

Thanks Patrick,

I'll be getting my KW3 setup next week, and I would like some closure on this issue.

George

DVC

George- Have you considered the Moton Club Sports?

KW USA is being a PIA to work with. Despite this being my only car and my ride to work, they will not allow me to purchase a new unit so that I may R&R same day, and ship the defective unit back for a credit, thus eliminating down time. I'm also hearing their turn-around time can take months.

Thom- I don't recal a plastic self-lock? The hardware looks pretty stout but your second point is interesting.