Mark944na86

Check your PM.

333pg333

My mistake Rod.

They do say that our shocks can cope with considerably more spring but I haven't read up to see just how much more that means. Have you?

thingo

I've just tightened up the front rebound in increments until they were
too stiff and backed off a quarter turn, and set the back proportionally.
I still have a bit to play with when I get to the track, I'll just see how goes.

Eric_Oz_S2

So what would be the advantage of the KW clubsports over the V3s, assuming the same spring rates were specified? Do the clubsports have a "stiffer" valving, perhaps making them unsuitable for lesser spring rates?

333pg333

Hmm, not sure. I guess you'd have to assume that they have 'more compliant' valving for the street on the V3's but have no proof of that. Contact KW and ask?

thingo

I think the clubsports just have a bit stiffer springs, and valving to suit, they would be better on the track, comfort on the road is not an issue with the kw's, they are lot more comfortable on the street than the stock set up.I'm not crazy over their top mounts.

333pg333

Their top mounts do allow for a lot of neg but some of the components could be made better, agreed Rod.

Thom

What is the maximum front camber you can get with the Moton?

Eric_Oz_S2

Are the 340F/280R stock V3 rates the best for track use?

My thoughts are the 280 rear rate may be a tad stiff, as I currently run 350F/250R koni setup and it does get a little twitchy on the sharper curves, but is actually almost perfect on the faster (100 km/h+) curves. There must be some compromise with the standard kit as tbar rates vary quite a bit depending on model, year and spec.

Does anyone know how long the V3 springs are front and rear? Are they 2.25 or 2.5 dia?

333pg333

Don't compare your Konis to the KWs via spring rates only. Also it would vary with whatever T bar you're running. You could easily run higher rates than those you mention (340f/280r) though. The KWs are waaaay more comfortable than the Konis.
The twitchyness you describe would be due to many things. Do you mean it wants to slide the rear out on tighter corners? Usually our cars tend to push understeer if anything. It's all able to be tuned out anyway with decent components.

gt37vgt

as your power increases you realy feel the need for more rear spring rate ..i ran 450's in my 300+ car and hoping for well over 400hp I'm running 600's in the rear 350's front . no torsion bars ..
take the time to do the spring frequency cal-cs if the spring frequency's are almost the same the car will just be rong and you will never be able to figure why if will handle sweet and you think its all good then you will find a few corners with a dip or crest that you just can't master ..
it makes the car see saw back and forth its pretty sutble but if your pedeling near the limit it's an issue ..

thingo

I think you would be better off with a stiffer front spring than that, kw specced my 2 ways for the 968 at 100f/60r nm, that is the same rear spring as the v3, I translate it to 570f/285r, 25.5(stock) torsion bar, 333pg333 are similar but 110front(that would be down to chassis difference)those v3 rates may be ok on the road but I feel that they would slow you down on the track.

The springs are 70mm diameter, fronts are 170long,Eibach can supply direct replacements

Eric_Oz_S2

My point was more along the lines of combination - ie 280 seems to much for the 340 front.

Rod - that sounds like a better combination. I was thinking more of 400/285 though.

Patrick - in tight corners the rear tends to step out, sometimes resulting in fishtailing (maybe rear align related). This happened at the track yesterday, resulting in a 180 spin at maybe 70km/h. I'm also going to adjust my rear toe - set to zero at the moment which I think is contributing to instability under breaking as well.

I would think that the harder fronts would help reduce lightening the rear too much as well helping stability.

333pg333

Eric, what is your complete setup from wheels, tyres, springs, shocks, sways, bushings etc? Then we can work out why you are stepping out.

JET951

i think Patrick is on the right track here, before changing your setup try and find out what your car is doing and why, it sounds like you are running to hard a spring in the rear of your car compared with front or running too stiff sway on the rear compared to the front.
do you have an lsd in the car? im surprised if you do because under power the car should be very controllable with a good working lsd(even if the balance of the car is slightly out), the more motorsport orientated the LSD the more control you will have.
I use #450 Koni double adjustable up front with 968cs w/30mm torsion rear with 968cs sways and 60/80 motorsport LSD and find it to be a quick setup. to me a very controllable setup