WOW!
#1
Burning Brakes
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: The Colony, TX
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WOW!
Well, with the recent carbeque episodes I was scared into finally getting out and installing my LR injector/Knock sensor harnes, LR reference sensor harness and the full boat IceShark Battery cables. I was doing it to get rid of the cracked and broken wiring not really thinking I would get any benefit from it. All I can say is WOW! the car starts better, interior lighting is brighter and the thing seems to have better throttle response and get up and go. The get up and go part is measured with my incredibly calibrated SOTP meter of course, but it drives like a different car. I would recommend this upgrade to anyone thinking about it and to those not thinking about it. The one thing I didn't count on was how long it would take to acually put it all in the car. Plan on a very long day or spread it out over two days. Well worth the effort in the end!
#2
I wasn't around to experience the ice shark legacy but I hear the product was awesome... from my understanding there aren't any more ice shark cables and I don't know of another supplier.
#3
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I too noticed the difference in the car when I installed his battery cables. Starts much easier, and doesn't kill batteries anymore. I used to have a dead battery if parked more than three days. Now, it can go three weeks and the battery stays fresh.
#4
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Check with poster Robby. He can tell you about IceShark stuff.
#5
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This is why having good gauge wiring and nice clean grounds is so important. We install ground kits a lot as part of our dyno tuning, and the differences are always amazing!
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#8
Hey guys- I'm trying to do some catching up here, as I've had a rough few months & have been out of circulation. I DO have the rest of the Iceshark stuff & can do cables however you want, BUT, I am OUT of the fuses that Dan used. I'm not sure what to do here...? I CAN offer the idetincal positive & negative kits w/OUT fuses for a discounted price & you can either put them together w/fuses of your own choice OR I can have them put together w/out fuses. The factory never had their cables fused, so I'm not sure how big of an issue it really is...? Now, the negatives were NEVER fused & I can do these all day long for $50 a kit + S&H... These are Dan's cables straight from his stock... Lemme know as I plan to start back on this, barring no other family deaths, computer failures, or situations beyond my control- it's been a BAD year...
#9
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Hey guys- I'm trying to do some catching up here, as I've had a rough few months & have been out of circulation. I DO have the rest of the Iceshark stuff & can do cables however you want, BUT, I am OUT of the fuses that Dan used. I'm not sure what to do here...? I CAN offer the idetincal positive & negative kits w/OUT fuses for a discounted price & you can either put them together w/fuses of your own choice OR I can have them put together w/out fuses. The factory never had their cables fused, so I'm not sure how big of an issue it really is...? Now, the negatives were NEVER fused & I can do these all day long for $50 a kit + S&H... These are Dan's cables straight from his stock... Lemme know as I plan to start back on this, barring no other family deaths, computer failures, or situations beyond my control- it's been a BAD year...
#11
Ehall- thanks man- glad to see you're still around. I've just spent the last 30 min reading about your latest project ideas- how is it going? What did you finally decide on? PM me if you get time....
Keith- I'm not sure specifically about this, but the ground issue seems to help a lot of probs that our cars have exhibited. The main reason why Dan built them originally, is b/c of a bunch of underhood fires caused by faulty wiring. The positives were expensive b/c of the fuses he used. The negative kit is cheap, at $50 + S&H... I've got a few people wanting both, but I'm not sure how to proceed, since I can't find fuses for the positives...
Keith- I'm not sure specifically about this, but the ground issue seems to help a lot of probs that our cars have exhibited. The main reason why Dan built them originally, is b/c of a bunch of underhood fires caused by faulty wiring. The positives were expensive b/c of the fuses he used. The negative kit is cheap, at $50 + S&H... I've got a few people wanting both, but I'm not sure how to proceed, since I can't find fuses for the positives...
#13
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Hey Robby, I'll take a negative kit and if you have a breakthrough on the fuse issue for the positive where it is a true copy of Dan's kit let me know. My zip is 30071 if you want to let me know shipping I can paypal over the funds.
#14
Race Director
Hi Robby, good to see you around.
Dan J installed my Iceshark kit when my engine was out and everything looks great - its hard to tell how much better it runs since its a totally different motor but my gauges are more stable and I no longer seem to have any battery dying issues. Dan said my grounds were in pretty bad shape to begin with...
Dan J installed my Iceshark kit when my engine was out and everything looks great - its hard to tell how much better it runs since its a totally different motor but my gauges are more stable and I no longer seem to have any battery dying issues. Dan said my grounds were in pretty bad shape to begin with...