Control arms
11-08-2007, 02:15 PM
#1
Drifting
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Control arms
For some reason, my PO put on some aftermarket steel a-arms on my car. They work but would like to upgrade my front/rear suspension soon and I think I am going to replace them so I don't run into any problems. Who sells good aftermarket a-arms so I can lower the car 1" and upgrade the F/R suspension. I look around at different places to buy them and WOW, big $$$. For the front I have thought about the Koni Strut conversion with new springs that will match the new rear torsion bar.
11-08-2007, 02:49 PM
#3
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What is the advantage of the early offset al. with rebuilt joints? Why would you want the ones that I have I guess is what I am asking..... If I want to lower my car an 1" with adding new suspension, I thought you had to upgrade the a-arms or at least a longer pin lenght? Are you rebuilt joints with all the rubber then or upgraded?
11-08-2007, 02:58 PM
#4
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You may want to get in touch with Markus Blaszak at http://www.blaszakprecision.com/
He makes a couple of varieties of control arms that have played to good reviews.
He makes a couple of varieties of control arms that have played to good reviews.
11-08-2007, 02:59 PM
#5
The aluminum arms are prone to bind at the joint. Not to say the steel ones won't but they won't crack out of the casting. Steel reinforced is the way to go if you don't want to spend big money.
11-08-2007, 03:43 PM
#6
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you said you had aftermarket steel arms- not sure why you would want different ones. These arms are stock w/ rebuilt ball joints w/ grease fittings. Other than that- stock.
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11-08-2007, 04:21 PM
#8
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depends on if they bind, what spring rates you have
if they are using early style arms that are plated or something, those ball joints have alot of room to move before they bind- i think the car would be sitting on the rockers before they binded. The ALuminum arms actually have alot of room as well,usually when you lower the car but have a low spring rate and small sways is when they bind- the car is leaning alot to one side. My car is quite low but w/ 400lb springs and MO30 968 sway bars i doubt i'll bind them. Then when you get into really really fast cars w/ heavy suspension, they tend to tug on the joints causing problems as well- but with a street car i doubt you'd have to worry about that.
if they are using early style arms that are plated or something, those ball joints have alot of room to move before they bind- i think the car would be sitting on the rockers before they binded. The ALuminum arms actually have alot of room as well,usually when you lower the car but have a low spring rate and small sways is when they bind- the car is leaning alot to one side. My car is quite low but w/ 400lb springs and MO30 968 sway bars i doubt i'll bind them. Then when you get into really really fast cars w/ heavy suspension, they tend to tug on the joints causing problems as well- but with a street car i doubt you'd have to worry about that.
11-08-2007, 04:37 PM
#9
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Mike, a picture would help, but my guess is that you just have the stock early 944 steel arms. Somebody made a kit a while back to make them so they would work on the '86 cars. Either way, the thought was that they were stronger the the aluminum arms.
When I upgrade my arms new spring, I plan to go with the Racers Edge units. Charlie Arms are also good if you can find them.
When I upgrade my arms new spring, I plan to go with the Racers Edge units. Charlie Arms are also good if you can find them.
11-08-2007, 04:39 PM
#10
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I am looking at going with 400lb up front with I think a 29mm torsion bar. I have to check to make sure that right but I am looking for a natural set up. Later down the line I will do the sway bars as well. Do you have to upgrade to the 968 caster blocks when doing the suspension or is that more for larger wheels?
11-08-2007, 09:44 PM
#12
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here ya go- aluminum arms and the difference between 944 and 968 castor blocks- always a good idea to have in any case. If i ever pull an a-arm i put those on- two cars so far.
11-09-2007, 12:23 AM
#15
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