Control arms
11-11-2007, 06:55 AM
#46
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11-12-2007, 01:18 PM
#47
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Before you make a statement like that, I would suggest you list your extensive machining experiences. If you had half an idea of what goes into those arms and the cost of materials, you would realize that it is what it is and thats what it costs to make quality billet arms. Think of the liability too. Can you put a price on a product that could potentially kill someone??
11-12-2007, 04:32 PM
#48
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hmmm sorry
3 years in the tool rooms building multistage press tooling
3 years prototype machine building (the only machinist )
3 years automotive R&D
3 years freelance for various pimps.
and I've been fabricating the entire time .(still **** at it )
so i have a fair idea whats involved ..
why don't you machine your role cage from a billet ????
its obvious why they cost so much its not obvious how they are better than fabricated ones..
how much would real autoclaved composite cost .
or Titanium or buriliam alloy
3 years in the tool rooms building multistage press tooling
3 years prototype machine building (the only machinist )
3 years automotive R&D
3 years freelance for various pimps.
and I've been fabricating the entire time .(still **** at it )
so i have a fair idea whats involved ..
why don't you machine your role cage from a billet ????
its obvious why they cost so much its not obvious how they are better than fabricated ones..
how much would real autoclaved composite cost .
or Titanium or buriliam alloy
11-12-2007, 05:54 PM
#49
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well, for one, fabricated ones have failed at the welds - you eliminate the risk of relying on proper welds when you have your arms machined from a billet - what is that worth?
11-13-2007, 11:55 AM
#51
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A thread like this usually ends up taking the form of a battle of opinions. Like they say "... everyone has one."
We were the first to come out with the longer pin solution and the only one, to date, to do it for the OEM control arms. We now have over 300 sets in the field, both 17mm and 19mm versions, being used in all applications from an every day driver to a dedicated track car. Out of all of those sets (600 pins) we have only ever had 2 failures.
The first cracked at the radial groove that the pinch bolt slides through due to not following the torque specification. If the pinch was properly secured there is no way to brake a pin above the bottom of the pinch. This was one of the first run of sets that we had produced and, since then, we have eliminated the complete radial groove and replaced it with a liner recess. This adds to the strength of the pin in the event that a pinch bolt is not torqued down or loosens up during use.
The second failure happened on the track only a few months ago. The pin DID NOT BRAKE when the car ran into the concrete barrier wheel first, it bent slightly (17mm version). The customer ordered a single replacement pin for that side and is also repairing a bent strut, tie rod, fender, door, rear quarter, etc.. I have seen OEM pins shear under lesser conditions.
So.. opinions are great but the above is how our products react in the field. I cannot speak for the other manufactures of longer pins that go into aftermarket arms but if you have a set of Rennbay GCK pins that are installed correctly, you have nothing to worry about.
We were the first to come out with the longer pin solution and the only one, to date, to do it for the OEM control arms. We now have over 300 sets in the field, both 17mm and 19mm versions, being used in all applications from an every day driver to a dedicated track car. Out of all of those sets (600 pins) we have only ever had 2 failures.
The first cracked at the radial groove that the pinch bolt slides through due to not following the torque specification. If the pinch was properly secured there is no way to brake a pin above the bottom of the pinch. This was one of the first run of sets that we had produced and, since then, we have eliminated the complete radial groove and replaced it with a liner recess. This adds to the strength of the pin in the event that a pinch bolt is not torqued down or loosens up during use.
The second failure happened on the track only a few months ago. The pin DID NOT BRAKE when the car ran into the concrete barrier wheel first, it bent slightly (17mm version). The customer ordered a single replacement pin for that side and is also repairing a bent strut, tie rod, fender, door, rear quarter, etc.. I have seen OEM pins shear under lesser conditions.
So.. opinions are great but the above is how our products react in the field. I cannot speak for the other manufactures of longer pins that go into aftermarket arms but if you have a set of Rennbay GCK pins that are installed correctly, you have nothing to worry about.
By the way, what material is the pin? I've noticed some surfact rust and now we are heading into winter here in the UK where salt is liverally scattered onto the road every winter i'm wondering about the pin materials resistance to corrosion?
03-05-2008, 11:43 AM
#53
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03-07-2008, 01:18 AM
#54
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Just to update my post from before, I checked my car and found to have the early steel control arms that have welded plates for reinforcement on them. I still would like to pull them out, sand down lightly, repaint and do all the joints/etc.
