engine not returning to idle... SOLVED update, page 2
10-06-2007, 11:35 AM
#16
Racer
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When I replaced all the factory vacuum hose the car began to idle high... just like the "sticky rpm" you guys are talking about.. well the idle happened to be set with the leaks so when I "de-leaked" it, i had to reset the idle. If all else fails give it a shot.. just make sure you follow the correct procedure to setting idle.
10-06-2007, 12:57 PM
#17
Drive-by provocation guy
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Also, will a smoke tester work to find exhaust leaks before the wastegate?
10-06-2007, 03:37 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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Ok when I let off my gas pedal I am getting this intermittent failure of the engine to return to idle with no gas, applied. It will sit at around 1400 to 1500 RPMs and a quick tap (or two) on the gas pedal is required to get it to drop back to idle. It does not feel like a stuck or sticking throttle cable but that could be it.
Where do I start looking to trouble shoot this?
IPSC
Where do I start looking to trouble shoot this?
IPSC
check the basic throttle stop setting and tension on the cable.
87951
10-06-2007, 05:10 PM
#19
Drive-by provocation guy
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When I replaced all the factory vacuum hose the car began to idle high... just like the "sticky rpm" you guys are talking about.. well the idle happened to be set with the leaks so when I "de-leaked" it, i had to reset the idle. If all else fails give it a shot.. just make sure you follow the correct procedure to setting idle.
10-06-2007, 06:25 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
How exactly does one set the idle?
IPSC
10-06-2007, 06:43 PM
#21
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when my idle was hi it was a combination of things.
the idle stop was forcing the throttle plate open too much, throttle cable was too tight.
adjusted both and used the vertical screw/afm to fine tune the idle without going thru the jumpering/electrical thingy.
87951
the idle stop was forcing the throttle plate open too much, throttle cable was too tight.
adjusted both and used the vertical screw/afm to fine tune the idle without going thru the jumpering/electrical thingy.
87951
10-06-2007, 06:59 PM
#22
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I have a Snap-On smoke tester at the shop, and yes you could prob use it to find exhaust leaks. The tester comes will big cone-type fittings for testing evap systems that would work for the exhaust as well, you'd just have to find a place to plug it and pressurize the system with the smoke tester. The tester only puts out 5 psi, so there is no chance of damaging anything.
10-07-2007, 07:52 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ok the repositioning of the TPS has solved the problem. Like I said it was just on the edge of properly engaging and not engaging and my guess is heat from the engine bay was just enough for it not to engage.
Thanks for all the help.
IPSC
Thanks for all the help.
IPSC
10-08-2007, 03:33 AM
#24
Legend Killer
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glad you fixed the problem. I seem to now be having a similar problem. The plastic cover on my TPS fell off and melted on the turbo. Then the other day I started getting ugly hesitation and the car even stalled.......
10-08-2007, 12:01 PM
#25
Racer
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I'm a little slow so help me out on this one.. are you saying your tps was not connected properly??
10-08-2007, 12:09 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
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IPSC
10-08-2007, 01:46 PM
#27
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if the tps isn't adjusted properly, the clicking you hear as it opens/closes, it doesn't allow the throtle plate to close properly.
the tps, open/closing, changes resistance telling the dme if you're idling/accelerating/decelerating.
if it's unplugged it'll still run and a good way to troubleshoot the tps.
87951
the tps, open/closing, changes resistance telling the dme if you're idling/accelerating/decelerating.
if it's unplugged it'll still run and a good way to troubleshoot the tps.
87951
10-08-2007, 03:23 PM
#28
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Of course....only when the car is warm. At first start up it's perfect....later it will start acting up.
