I'm a little freaked......advice needed
09-09-2007, 04:28 PM
#16
The Impaler
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When was the last time they were replaced? I had a very similar issue when I bought my car, ad it turned out that the spark plugs were just really really really old and worn. Try the cheap, easy stuff first.
09-09-2007, 04:34 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
I'd have to go thru my records but it may have been some time..........outta curiosity, are these any more awkward to get to than the base 944 plugs? (I'm sure the cap is just as much fun!!)
09-10-2007, 01:33 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
GREAT NEWS!!The car has mysteriously and magically returned to normal after depleting half a tank (and after adding a bottle of octane boost - just in case). Seems as though - unbelievably!! - that it may have been the concentrated injector cleaner I bought a few days ago screwing things up!? They said to add 1/5th a bottle to an empty tank and I (stupidly!) added half a bottle, thinking 'bigger tank - how could it hurt?'.......well, nothing was altered since or before the addition and now that I'm down to a half tank, she is right where she should be and it pulls nice and consistently!!
MUCH thanx for all the input, advice and suggestions everyone!! Good future reference material. All hoses and connections seemed intact and the tps 'clicked' when the throttle was depressed and released......and I think I will be going with the lindsey racing tune up kit and it is $150US as opposed to, oh - about $350Cdn up here!!??
Now for the dreaded motor mount replacement! (btw - any idea what I can expect as far as re and re for both mounts?)
09-10-2007, 02:28 AM
#19
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GREAT NEWS!!The car has mysteriously and magically returned to normal after depleting half a tank (and after adding a bottle of octane boost - just in case). Seems as though - unbelievably!! - that it may have been the concentrated injector cleaner I bought a few days ago screwing things up!? They said to add 1/5th a bottle to an empty tank and I (stupidly!) added half a bottle, thinking 'bigger tank - how could it hurt?'.......well, nothing was altered since or before the addition and now that I'm down to a half tank, she is right where she should be and it pulls nice and consistently!!
MUCH thanx for all the input, advice and suggestions everyone!! Good future reference material. All hoses and connections seemed intact and the tps 'clicked' when the throttle was depressed and released......and I think I will be going with the lindsey racing tune up kit and it is $150US as opposed to, oh - about $350Cdn up here!!??
Now for the dreaded motor mount replacement! (btw - any idea what I can expect as far as re and re for both mounts?)
09-10-2007, 07:42 PM
#21
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Well. if it's now running more normally, I would not hesitate to change out the fuel filter. You may well have moved around alot of bottom of the tank funk. A new FF isn't too expensive and you can do it yourself easily.
When the car is in for motor mounts, have them check your battery lead/s and ground. They get hot and the insulation falls off. Under boost they move around and can momentarily arc/ground on the back of the engine, causing exactly what you described. It only happens under hard boost runs because it takes a good strong amount of movement to get the cables to move themselves. I chased that problem for 2 years. I got all of the same responses to my problem that you got here.
BTW vac leaks pull then feel sort of limp, rather than the car going dead/ backfiring much. You'll also usually hear a hiss. Loosen the hose clamp on your intercooler and go for a drive. That's how it will feel.
Also, try very hard not to boost the car until the temp gets to the top of the first white line on the guage. You need oil temp and your old headgasket/aluminum block, need time to expand from the proper heat.
When the car is in for motor mounts, have them check your battery lead/s and ground. They get hot and the insulation falls off. Under boost they move around and can momentarily arc/ground on the back of the engine, causing exactly what you described. It only happens under hard boost runs because it takes a good strong amount of movement to get the cables to move themselves. I chased that problem for 2 years. I got all of the same responses to my problem that you got here.
BTW vac leaks pull then feel sort of limp, rather than the car going dead/ backfiring much. You'll also usually hear a hiss. Loosen the hose clamp on your intercooler and go for a drive. That's how it will feel.
Also, try very hard not to boost the car until the temp gets to the top of the first white line on the guage. You need oil temp and your old headgasket/aluminum block, need time to expand from the proper heat.
Last edited by ehall; 09-10-2007 at 07:44 PM. Reason: speeeeling
09-11-2007, 12:29 AM
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanx ehall - I am getting the mounts put in in a week ($300 is their estimate) - and I'll also be getting new lower ball joints, caster blocks, front shock bump stops, full fluid flush and O2 sensor and fuel filter installed. I will be doing a full tune myself (caps, rotor, wires and plugs) myself this week......I figure about $2000 done and done and she'll be tip top!! I'll get SCAN to check my battery leads and grounds while down there.
As far as using the boost - I absolutely baby it until it's fully warm before I even attempt to push the car (at least 10 minutes driving...and even then, I don't abuse cars....though I understand these beasts are pretty tough cookies!!)
As far as using the boost - I absolutely baby it until it's fully warm before I even attempt to push the car (at least 10 minutes driving...and even then, I don't abuse cars....though I understand these beasts are pretty tough cookies!!)
09-11-2007, 12:33 AM
#23
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Thanx ehall - I am getting the mounts put in in a week ($300 is their estimate) - and I'll also be getting new lower ball joints, caster blocks, front shock bump stops, full fluid flush and O2 sensor and fuel filter installed. I will be doing a full tune myself (caps, rotor, wires and plugs) myself this week......I figure about $2000 done and done and she'll be tip top!! I'll get SCAN to check my battery leads and grounds while down there.
As far as using the boost - I absolutely baby it until it's fully warm before I even attempt to push the car (at least 10 minutes driving...and even then, I don't abuse cars....though I understand these beasts are pretty tough cookies!!)
As far as using the boost - I absolutely baby it until it's fully warm before I even attempt to push the car (at least 10 minutes driving...and even then, I don't abuse cars....though I understand these beasts are pretty tough cookies!!)
09-11-2007, 12:36 AM
#24
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By the way, are you using OEM motormounts or aftermarket? I'm not sure the validity of the statement, but as I understand it, aftermarket mounts will wear out in 1/4 the time of OEM. to play it safe, I went OEM.
09-11-2007, 12:50 AM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
I am looking at some brand new mounts tomorrow that were never used (apparently still in original boxes) - they are German made and called 'Hamber' I believe he said. Is the cap the same pita as the stock 944 (with the 'hidden' bottom screw that's mildly retarded to get at!??)......if so, I used a stubby philips before with satisfactory results.......well, after about 20 minutes of finnaglling it to stay shut!
09-11-2007, 01:41 PM
#29
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again...don't buy the mounts unless in a porsche box!!!!!!!!!!!! don't buy those hamber ones unless you like doing jobs over again.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!!!!!!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!!!!!!
