Problems with KEP PP...
#1
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Ok, so after 2 days of work...
KEP Stg II PP
Clutchnet 6-puck non-sprung hub
Resurfaced stock flywheel
New Release bearing
All new hardware (paragon)
The clutch will not release. Depressing the clutch, it will stop prematurely not hitting the floor (a good three inches shy). The clutch stops because the fork hits the bellhousing. It is as if the angle of the fork has changed, so now the fork doesn't pull the pressure-plate until its traveled too far.
The pressure plate is fully seated on the flywheel, the release bearing is instaled properly, the fork is behind the release bearing to be able to pull on it.
Anyone have any trouble like this or any ideas?
-Rogue
KEP Stg II PP
Clutchnet 6-puck non-sprung hub
Resurfaced stock flywheel
New Release bearing
All new hardware (paragon)
The clutch will not release. Depressing the clutch, it will stop prematurely not hitting the floor (a good three inches shy). The clutch stops because the fork hits the bellhousing. It is as if the angle of the fork has changed, so now the fork doesn't pull the pressure-plate until its traveled too far.
The pressure plate is fully seated on the flywheel, the release bearing is instaled properly, the fork is behind the release bearing to be able to pull on it.
Anyone have any trouble like this or any ideas?
-Rogue
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With the slave cylinder not bolted to the bellhousing how much play does the fork have if you move it by hand till it mates with the Throw Out Bearing?
I feel you, I had this mess with a modified Sachs PP before I bought my KEP1 but the clutch did release. The pedal was still away from the floor though.
Was the clutch fork wore down where it makes contact with the TOB? Thus having more gap to make up before the TOB releases the clamp force from the PP?
Just another thought; thrust bearing wear on the crank?
I feel you, I had this mess with a modified Sachs PP before I bought my KEP1 but the clutch did release. The pedal was still away from the floor though.
Was the clutch fork wore down where it makes contact with the TOB? Thus having more gap to make up before the TOB releases the clamp force from the PP?
Just another thought; thrust bearing wear on the crank?
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i run the clutchnet unsprung hub and a KEP 1 on my car and dont have any problems. How much did they take off when they resurfaced the flywheel? maybe it is too thin
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I was going to install the six puck from clutch net/kep combination in my car when I noticed that it was to thin, so I opted for the 930 disk.
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I will check, although I had zero problems with the previous Sachs PP (just was slipping under boost).
Rogue
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Rogue
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spec for a new clutch/pp/flywheel is 18mm between the back of the fork and the 'window' in the bellhousing. If you do a search on threads started by user 'ivai', Jeff has some really good measurements in there that might help you. I have a lightened stock flywheel, 930 disk, and KEP I pp and measure 17mm, which goes along with Jeff's measurements and the fact that the 930 disk is 1mm thicker than the stock/cup disk. I still don't have mine off the stands yet (and have to finish putting in a back yard before I can get back to it), so I can't give feedback about how things work under operating conditions ......
I'm also thinking that thinner should dis-engage easier (sooner) - you should have more than 18mm gap between the back of the clutch fork and the window.
Also DUDE!!!! - nice numbers on that turbo/setup! I'm supposed to have that same turbo and I know I'm knowhere close to those numbers. I need to find out what you're doing, and what needs work on mine. Does the E85 fuel convert help contribute?
I'm also thinking that thinner should dis-engage easier (sooner) - you should have more than 18mm gap between the back of the clutch fork and the window.
Also DUDE!!!! - nice numbers on that turbo/setup! I'm supposed to have that same turbo and I know I'm knowhere close to those numbers. I need to find out what you're doing, and what needs work on mine. Does the E85 fuel convert help contribute?
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mtnman82,
Thanks for the info - I will get some measurements in a couple of weeks as soon as I get back in state...
Thanks for the complement! I do really like this turbo, pretty quick to spool and makes decent power - great street turbo. I am planning on upgrading to something unique and shooting for 500whp...
E85 fuel helps a lot as it is 105 octane, plus since its alcohol the atomization cools the intake charge significantly. People are making as good of power on E85 as they do on 116octane race gas. This allows me to pretty much max out the turbo, and my Engine Management monitors knock - so I tune for 0-1 count during a single gear pull.
Rogue
Thanks for the info - I will get some measurements in a couple of weeks as soon as I get back in state...
Thanks for the complement! I do really like this turbo, pretty quick to spool and makes decent power - great street turbo. I am planning on upgrading to something unique and shooting for 500whp...
E85 fuel helps a lot as it is 105 octane, plus since its alcohol the atomization cools the intake charge significantly. People are making as good of power on E85 as they do on 116octane race gas. This allows me to pretty much max out the turbo, and my Engine Management monitors knock - so I tune for 0-1 count during a single gear pull.
Rogue
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