nodestination1

So i finished my tuneup, and am getting ready to do some serious mods. I want to get the most power out of the stock turbo and AFM, so i was thinking....

951MAXX chips
test pipe/catback (done already)
LBE (done already)
3 bar FPR
lindsey MBC
and finally, the dual port wastegate, to hold boost to redline.

So thats my question. The Lindsey website advertises making boost loss a thing of the past. Is the wastegate really the weak link in the system, that keeps the motor from holding boost to redline? I guess i was wondering if anyone with the stock K26/6 has added a dual port like the lindsey setup, and if the setup in fact held boost to redline.
I have read that the wastegate is the weak link, but i have also heard that a tired K26/6 just cant hold the boost to redline, regardless of WG.

I was going to shoot for 15-16psi, do you think thats pushing it?

Keithr726

Same set up that I have.

The lindsey wastegate is a factory wastegate that has been rebuild with a tougher spring. Most of the stock wastegates on 951s are reaching the end of their life and starting (if not already) to leak boost. You should be able to hold boost with it but a lot of people say that the k26/6 cannot hold that all the way up. Its a very controversial topic on here. I myself have seen a car do it.

Keithr726

here it is...

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...can+hold+until

sawood12

Even a refreshed stock wastegate looses you boost. My car in threory had 220bhp off the production line. I replaced my stock wategate with a LDPW and set the peak boost to 0.75 bar - i.e. stock. Everything else at this point was stock including chips. On a dyno in the UK that is know to read low compared with other dyno's I got 239.5bhp. By the way i'm talking calculated flywheel HP here. Now even assuming my stock wastegate was working as new i've still made 20bhp over what the car should have had from new with all the rest of the engine being 19yrs old with 110k miles on the clock. Therefore it is safe to presume that the single port wastegate is costing you at least 20bhp - even a brand new one. Unfortunately I didn't do a dyno run before I replaced the wastegate so don't have a direct back-to-back comparison.

The problem with a single port wastegate is that the boost control is via a spring. A spring is not an on/off device. Even if you uprate the spring it is not going to hold the wastegate completely shut until your intended boost pressure then suddenly open up the valve. It will crack open way before your intended boost pressure. It is impossible to prevent this using a spring as you get a corresponding compression of the spring for a given force applied. DPW with a good boost control system is the only way to completely control boost.

Ski

you do not run the LBE and a dual port wastegate, with MBC together.

hosrom_951

Keith,
Though you are correct about the LR using being a rebuilt stock, with a tougher spring, but also it has been converted from a single port wastegate to a dual port wastegate.

Keithr726

Opps I missed that "small" detail. duh

ehall

1. see ski's post.
2. You'll likely notice the difference after the swap.
3. Not very many 26/6's hold max boost to red line, but a new WG will hold as much as possible by comparison to what you have now.

Acetylene

You don't need the Boost Enhancer with the DP WG. Although the 26/6 is a little weak and runs out of steam too soon, your car will be very fast with your mod list compared to now.

Auto_Werks 3.6

It seems like most people runing a K26-6 will see a falling boost curve (again most, as I have seen one dyno chart that looked like a fairly flat 15psi). Meaning that you might set your peak at 15psi, and see 13 at the redline with a dual port wastegate. Others may be peaking at 20 psi and seeing 15 or 16 at the redline. You should be able to cure some of that with an electronic boost controler. But then if you look at the compressor map for the K26, You may be pushing a lot of hot air at that point, and wasting your time.
Your mod list (minus the LBE) including the DP wastegate will be very quick and safe if you set the peak at 15psi. A friend of mine just went with max chips and I was very impressed.

PS. You should also concider a Tial wastegate... This is an entirely different can of worms, but I think there is something to be said for starting with a wastegate that is not a refurbished / modified 20 year old part. Both are great options, and I know there are many happy LR owners. Personally I went with the Tial.

nodestination1

the LBE was on there when i bought the car, not my doing. There is also some crappy eurosport chipset in there.... i've never heard of the brand, and want them out.

the tial wastegate... I always got the impression that there was a little more work involved than the Lindsey dual port. Am i just imagining this?

Acetylene

If you get the Tial from SFR with the adapter plates, the Tial will be a bolt in just like the LR unit. I think the Tial, which I personally like better, is also cheaper.

ehall

you're imagining that. done over again, I'd have bought a tial.

nodestination1

Wow, im really glad i made this thread, definetly going to go with the tial from SFR. Not only is it cheaper, but no $300 core charge.

Now to hijack my own thread.... has anyone tried the SFR blow through MAF kit? I was always very intruiged by it, and wonder if it's any better than a traditional maf upgrade.

ehall

in all honesty, it may be great, but I don't know. I do know that the smoothest plug and play MAF solution on the 951 market is done by Vitesse racing. The SFR may be just as good, I just can't know that objectively. I KNOW you can't go wrong with Vitesse.
www.vitesseracing.com