>>>Ive been leaning toward dealing with the exhaust leak right now. It just means less money to throw at the go-faster stuff.. oh well<<<

You will have to fix the leak for sure. If you don't, your power and turbo response will suffer.

Your best bet is to remove both headers and the coolant pipe above the headers. Then use a right angle drill and a stud remover kit, and try to get the broken stud out. You might have to pull the head to do it >>> 50/50 chance).

Good luck,

TonyG

 

hey, i wrote that guide with help from laust and other rennlisters ! it originated here;
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...49#post1797049

 

Hoping this increases the chances of getting the stud out with a few backwards drill bits. Just waiting on the 90 degree air drill right now.





Bushing should help keep the bit centered. Probably not even going to bother with screw extractors. I figure if it breaks i will be SOL. Hopefully a left and drill bit is the ticket.

 

I was surprised, when I saw that the first time too, so yep, we are famous ... at least a little bit.

 

The metal coolant pipe that this temp sensor is connected in would had to have been hacked up and re-welded for it to fit around a 27 and not have the temp sensor hit the intake manifold. I'm having an issue with this on my 27. The larger cold side of the 27 makes this coolant pipe angle up and back enough that the temp sender is in the way of mounting the intake. So, having attempted modifying that coolant pipe myself and being able to say its a PITA, I'll say you've got a 26 on there.

That and the j-boot is still stock, as already said.

 

looks like a rebuild without any sort of 'upgrade'. shop scam ?

 

Maybe they stuck some 27/6 decals on it and called it a day.

 

A larger wheel can and has been be fitted to the stock 26 housing with a little machining. It may not be a true k27 wheel, but would outperform a stock k26. The only way to know is to pop the compressor housing off, measure the inducer & exducer diameters and compare them to a k26 wheel.

 

wouldn't that be like clipping the turbine? there's no free lunch, etc.

 

>>>A larger wheel can and has been be fitted to the stock 26 housing with a little machining. It may not be a true k27 wheel, but would outperform a stock k26. The only way to know is to pop the compressor housing off, measure the inducer & exducer diameters and compare them to a k26 wheel<<<

A.K.A. > "cheater turbo". And it may not even have a KKK wheel, let alone a K27 wheel, machined to fit inside.

Not really worth the effort when you can get a K27 compressor for so cheap... which will make a lot more power than any cheater K26.


>>>wouldn't that be like clipping the turbine? there's no free lunch<<<

No. Clipping the wheel is just that. It's literally cutting of parts of the blades. This is typically done in an effort to reduce the weight of the compressor wheel, which will result in a faster turbo acceleration (rate of acceleration), but usually results in decreased efficiency (for obvious reasons).

A cheater turbo basically uses a larger compressor wheel. In order for it to fit, the compressor housing has to be machined out (enlarged internally). And in the process, if you still cannot get enough clearance, the blades might be clipped in order to get the additional clearance.

In the end, the cheater turbos only make a nominal difference over a stock turbo. These are used in racing where you are supposed to be using a stock turbo, but obviously feel the need to cheat. The difference is nominal, but if you add up a little nominal gain here, and a little nominal gain there.... you get a difference that produces measurable results on a track (even if it's only a tenth of a second per lap). Those tenths add up over many laps and can be the difference between winning or not.


TonyG

TonyG

 

seems I've got a similar turbo i was told by the dick head who sold me the car "its a stage 2 turbo"
i just got the front cover off it has a 66 od and 46 front dia thats up 2mm from 44 i think is standard??
can i get a witness?
it worked ok not sure if it is worth upgrading to the garret i have here as my garret is only a 39lbs per minute turbo and the standard k26 is what 35 and this thing would be 37?? so not worth the trouble of changing the exhuast ?

 

never believe what the seller claims unless they can produce proper paperwork to prove it.

 

yeh seller's do lie that much they uselly just don't know

 

yeh seller's don't lie that much they uselly just don't know

 

Yeah, the seller of my car said the engine was blown when I bought it.


And it wasn't. Such a Liar! Can you imagine how pissed I was?


BTW, thanks for this thread. I have the exact same question about my K26 as the car has a bunch of Huntley parts on it, and always wondered if it had the Huntley cheater K26 on it. Sounds like the only way to be sure is to take it apart though. Oh well.