oldjammer

I removed the threaded plastic fitting from the rad without loosening a clamp or bolt! I'm not a mechanic..just lucky sometimes. I used a flexible shaft driver with a torx #30 bit for removal and a 1/8" standard bit to thread in the replacement(see pic).
Now I have my heater valve out.Can you folks suggest a great replacement heater valve made of metal?? Also, I am missing the vacuum line off of the heater valve(I finally found the fitting at the firewall..mine is just a tube..no rubber housing. Is that normal??) Can someone direct me to specs or supplier for that vacuum line?



1987 951 Alpine white

eniac

Ahh, I just had that same thing happen to me last week. I removed the broken threads in exactly the same manner, with a #30 Torx. I ordered a replacement online from Pelican Parts which showed up at my door 2 days later

As for the heater valve, mine started leaking 4 years ago so I removed it then bypassed it to get me by until I got a new new one. Well 4 years later I still haven't put one back in. I really see no reason to. The car heats up just fine in the chilly mornings and I have nice cold A/C in the afternoons, even with outside temps above 90'. The car already has two thermostats plus a cabin air recycle switch...is a heater valve really necessary?

oldjammer

interesting....my A/C hasn't worked in the 5 years I've owned her....the least of my problems. I often referred to this car as my "garage heater". What about the vacuum line??

eniac

The vacuum line is a plastic tube coming from the firewall and should have a short peice of rubber hose connecting it to the valve. When mine was removed I just plugged the line.

oldjammer

So....I don't see any members screaming "YOU CAN'T DO THAT".. what did you use to connect the two coolant hoses?
I found some small engine fuel line(silicone?) that I think will fit well over the vacuum tube I'm seeing by the firewall.Armed with needlenose pliers and some long bent tip hemostats and a flock of cursewords can I "just" push that on, pinch it off and move on to my 2nd coolant refill attempt(with pressure kit test this time)????

oldjammer

bump

I use my heater about 10 times/year....from what I've read it might work fine without the heater valve....if it's OK to bypass, will the bottom hose alone reach far enough.....or can I use a splice(metal/plastic??) into both hoses.....or plug both coolant hoses??

eniac

I used a small length of metal tube to put in place of the heater valve, I had it laying around in a box of air compressor fittings. It would work the same as the heater valve always being open. I have heard others say the A/C wont be cold or the car will heat up slow, however, I have not experienced either of these problems. I have only done this to one car so I would like to hear input from others as well.

oldjammer

Thank You!
I'm thinking a 3"-4" legnth of pipe?? Is copper OK?? It looks like a 3/4 inch OD would work fine...what are air compressor fittings made of..brass??

Zero10

If the clip inside is fine you will be alright without a heater valve. I looked around for a replacement model, got a couple maybes from american cars then decided to just go with the original one. Made it 20 years on the first one, shouldn't be an issue getting another 20 out of this one.

eniac

The paticular pipe I have is made out of aluminum but brass would work also. With my larger turbo I had to make a custom water line which is made out of brass fittings. They work just fine.

KuHL 951

The last post in the link appears to be a good option for a metal valve and can be relocated easily.You should be able to track the lost vacuum line down by looking for the black line in the battery well. Sounds like yours broke off but you can re-route it or replace it. I don't like those small hard OE vac lines at all, too brittle.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...l+heater+valve

oldjammer

Thanks everyone! I finally got a vacuum line attached to the tube from the firewall and plugged it then inserted a 3 1/2" aluminum pipe in the hoses to bypass the removed heater valve. I went ahead(despite everyone's advisement) and refilled and bled(5x) the system without a pressure kit.... finally no air; just coolant coming out the bleeder. My radiator fans kicked on OK, my temp guage was stable(not jumping) but just under the 2nd white mark and I've always thought my gauge ran a bit high..... and I couldn't resist......TEST DRIVE!
I backed out of the driveway, went slightly downhill 200 yards(mellow..1st and 2nd gear only)...turned around and saw a narrow(3" +/-) stripe of coolant on the pavement that had begun when I started my forward motion. GRRR!
At that point my temp gauge was above the first red mark,and I pulled back in the drive and shut it down. The inside of the coolant overflow hose was wet, and about 15 minutes later I felt the top of the radiator and it didn't feel warm. My goal has been to be able to drive it 10 miles to a shop where the owner and 1 mechanic will let me hang out and help(hand him tools etc.....once again: I am not a mechanic nor wealthy but this car is my mistress! Headgasket??? Thanks for any advice.

eniac

Have you replaced your thermostats lately? A bad thermostat will make the car overheat, especially at an idle. There are two, the main one for the engine and a smaller one going to the turbo. Since your top hose wasn't warm, you definately have a blockage somewhere.