My 1/4 mile runs...
#18
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IT was quite windy actually... wind was pushing against the cars... would that create a difference?
So the sea level thing is... the air is more dense here than up in kansas so the air would create more resistance on the car? lol... dont think that being at sea level would make me run slower.
So the sea level thing is... the air is more dense here than up in kansas so the air would create more resistance on the car? lol... dont think that being at sea level would make me run slower.
#19
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Turbo cars run better the denser, cooler the air.
#20
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your reaction time is how long it takes you to start moving after the light turns green. Your first one was .59 seconds- pretty good- second was like what .8 seconds? ALittle slower- just saying- with a .5 RT you would have a little better overall time.
Im not sure where you were at but i know being up higher or down closer to sea level, your car will perform differently. That is why there is a switch on the dme to adjust for where the car was sold. My turbo runs much better as well on a nice cool day, as opposed to a sticky hot summer afternoon.
Im not sure where you were at but i know being up higher or down closer to sea level, your car will perform differently. That is why there is a switch on the dme to adjust for where the car was sold. My turbo runs much better as well on a nice cool day, as opposed to a sticky hot summer afternoon.
#21
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
your reaction time is how long it takes you to start moving after the light turns green. Your first one was .59 seconds- pretty good- second was like what .8 seconds? ALittle slower- just saying- with a .5 RT you would have a little better overall time.
Im not sure where you were at but i know being up higher or down closer to sea level, your car will perform differently. That is why there is a switch on the dme to adjust for where the car was sold. My turbo runs much better as well on a nice cool day, as opposed to a sticky hot summer afternoon.
Im not sure where you were at but i know being up higher or down closer to sea level, your car will perform differently. That is why there is a switch on the dme to adjust for where the car was sold. My turbo runs much better as well on a nice cool day, as opposed to a sticky hot summer afternoon.
The reaction times don't make a difference on most test and tune 1/4 mile (Open registration) night. They only count that in the time when in Actual competition. This has allowed me to Sit for 2-3 seconds after the other guy has left and I can then bounce off the stepped limiter and build boost off the line and get a potentially better boosted run. I've never seen that 2-3 seconds calculated in to my 1/4 times. The clock typically doesn't start until after your REAR wheels have broken the beam. (Which is why you can start on the last yellow light (Sportsmant style tree) and not get a red light. Because your REAR tires haven't crossed the beam before the green. - A trick most newbies aren't aware of.
As far as 60' goes, a good street tire time is from 1.7-2.0 More than that, you're slipping too much, bogging, rears set too stiff, whatever. (Non R compound) - Most larger tracks tun VHT on the track the gives MUCH better grip than on the regular street. - So even street tires get a little better traction.
#24
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Ben
Keep your eye on the damn light. Go practice at a stoplight, trancas would be good. On your video you have a loud pop into forth or fifth but no visable flame, how rich are you running now?
I did a mt veeder to oakville grade run today, it was great and I got a little crazy. These cars have some great grip. That straight part of oakville grade to hwy 29 is a good place to open it up a bit.
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I did a mt veeder to oakville grade run today, it was great and I got a little crazy. These cars have some great grip. That straight part of oakville grade to hwy 29 is a good place to open it up a bit.
#27
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
The clock typically doesn't start until after your REAR wheels have broken the beam. (Which is why you can start on the last yellow light (Sportsmant style tree) and not get a red light. Because your REAR tires haven't crossed the beam before the green. - A trick most newbies aren't aware of.
I think you need to check your source on the REAR tires affecting any part of the beam.
The fronts do all the triggering. Yes, there is a lot to staging process, shallow, deep staging, and much more.
For the guys that are going out to the track, I highly recommend checking out some of the drag racing sites before you go. Then do a trial run before the big day. You're in for some surprises....
The biggest one is track prep. Ever try launching on glue?
#28
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Originally Posted by DanD
I have to clear something up here.
I think you need to check your source on the REAR tires affecting any part of the beam.
The fronts do all the triggering. Yes, there is a lot to staging process, shallow, deep staging, and much more.
For the guys that are going out to the track, I highly recommend checking out some of the drag racing sites before you go. Then do a trial run before the big day. You're in for some surprises....
The biggest one is track prep. Ever try launching on glue?
I think you need to check your source on the REAR tires affecting any part of the beam.
The fronts do all the triggering. Yes, there is a lot to staging process, shallow, deep staging, and much more.
For the guys that are going out to the track, I highly recommend checking out some of the drag racing sites before you go. Then do a trial run before the big day. You're in for some surprises....
The biggest one is track prep. Ever try launching on glue?
#29
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Originally Posted by Loquat15
You should take your car out to the race track keith and see how you do, at least after you get back on up to the appropriate boost...
I got a package from lindsey today, let me know when you want to wrench.
#30
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I'm sure. The rears.
What would happen if a short wheel base car ran against a long wheelbase car. The long wheelbase car would be moving faster when the rear tires passed the starting line. The 1/2 second delay is our time to react, the drivetrain taking up slop, the suspension raising in the front and planting in the rear.
Here are a few sites that talk about the starting line procedure. Notice that none of them refer the rear tires. The timer is triggered when the front tires leave the starting beam.
To keep from having to read all these do a search on "Front" and you'll see what I mean.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_racing
http://www.nhra.com/basics/basics.html
http://www.hoosiertire.com/dragman.htm
http://www.chevelles.com/racing/tip2.html
I just don't want to pass bad information on to other readers.
If I'm wrong please show me something so everyone can know the truth.