cpt_koolbeenz

Just yesterday I removed the airfilter-intake pipe and disconnected the temp sensor for the Link ECU. I cleaned the air filter, replaced the spark plugs (shorter gap), and put everything back together. However, when I went to drive it, the car would barely idle it was so rich. I dialed back the master fuel map and it seemed to be better. I disconnected the temp sensor to see if that had anything to do with it, but it didn't change anything. I am pretty sure the thermistor failed open. I have not had a chance to check it with an ohm meter...

Does anyone know what type of thermistor the Link uses?

I don't know what else could cause the entire fuel map to get scaled up about 5-6%....

I will check the vac lines going to the FPR. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge on the car - might be a good idea.

Can anyone think of what else could cause the car to run super rich across the board like this?

gt37vgt

i think they are all the same you seem to be on the right track it is said that most on them will see about 24c with bad sensor . check the air temp sensor as they are far more delicate. and of course email link there is a group in cairns australia called MRT performance they have a good forum and are pretty good with LINK also AVO are exellent too .

chris951

I tried all of that stuff on my car when I had that kit and it never worked. I got screwed by GURU too

I ended up pulling off that stupid waste of money Link AFM. I could never get the car to idle right, ran ridiculously rich, nasty hesitation, stalled on me, replaced all vac lines, still ran like ****. Finally the car started to flood itself when starting on a warm afternoon, but start fine on a cold morning. Put the stock J-boot and AFM back on and it has run like a champ ever since. I think my car is faster, more reliable with chips, and some exhaust work than with the AFM Link piece of ****. I would get your money back and do a MAF kit or leave it stock. The AFM Link is ****ty quality and I would never recommend spending the $1000+ on it for it to cause problems. From what I have heard, no matter how much tuning you do to the MAP AFM Link, your car will still hesitate, idle like crap, and run too rich.

rberry951

Actually I have a couple of customers on here with LINK MAP systems working very well. They didn't work so well to begin with, but I mapped chips for them to address the issues they had, and now they are happy with the system. I don't think the LINK MAP system is at fault, I think they just didn't get them tuned right. In both cases I had to pull quite a bit of fuel in several areas, the maps ended up kind of funky looking, but they can't all be pretty... So long as they work.

Regards,
Russell

cpt_koolbeenz

My experience with the Link MAPs is that you can get it right, but it takes patience.
This is the first "real" problem I have had with the setup.
I was just able to get my AFR's looking nice last week, but now I have to diagnose this problem.
I have been talking with Danno on this issue - he replied to me minutes after I sent him an email.


However, I don't think the LINK setup is the end-all by any means! I will most likely move to a different system some day... It works for now though.

chris951

I think that there is a quality issue with the Link box, it is not as reliable as the factory DME/KLR. I think there are better ways to get power than the MAP upgrade.

gt37vgt

oh i thought he had a full standalone link wich seem to be a good thing . seems they were a bit half heated in the maf things and that afm emulator .

Rogue_Ant

Not all MAP upgrades are equal...


Rogue

KuHL 951

My Guru MAP AFM Link would go rich everytime I would disconnect the battery or swap chips for smog testing(forget about passing smog in Cali w/ those chips). I never could get it dialed in right. It's a shame because the simplicity of MAP with a standalone is a thing of beauty. The Motronics don't seem to up to the task of responding fast enough to the nuances of MAP. It's like playing Battlefield 2142 on a Pentium II. It might run but you always die.

eniac

For reference if I disconnect the intake air temp sensor my car will barely run however it runs great when plugged in. If you are not seeing any difference with or without it then I would suspect the problem be related to that.

My LINK MAP runs pretty well on stock chips. I took the kit from an '86 and installed it on my '88 so now I'm stuck with a worthless 24 pin that I can't use. But for short trips to the store, the car runs fine with stock chips and the LINK.

cpt_koolbeenz

eniac -
When you disconnect the intake air temp sensor, does the car run really rich or lean?

cpt_koolbeenz

Well, I found the problem...
The temp sensor just came un-soldered from the leads. Soldered it back up and all is well!
Thanks for the help guys!

m42racer

I tried all of that stuff on my car when I had that kit and it never worked. I got screwed by GURU too

I ended up pulling off that stupid waste of money Link AFM. I could never get the car to idle right, ran ridiculously rich, nasty hesitation, stalled on me, replaced all vac lines, still ran like ****. Finally the car started to flood itself when starting on a warm afternoon, but start fine on a cold morning. Put the stock J-boot and AFM back on and it has run like a champ ever since. I think my car is faster, more reliable with chips, and some exhaust work than with the AFM Link piece of ****. I would get your money back and do a MAF kit or leave it stock. The AFM Link is ****ty quality and I would never recommend spending the $1000+ on it for it to cause problems. From what I have heard, no matter how much tuning you do to the MAP AFM Link, your car will still hesitate, idle like crap, and run too rich.
__________________
Don't hold back anything. Tell us like it is.

I think you got the raw deal from Guru. Many have had good sucess with this. The systems were sold to Koklen Racing with the basic 944 setup only. That is, with the # of Cylinders, Span and alignment done. From there the tunung parts had to be done.

Don't throw the baby out with the bath water because you never got it tuned correctly.
Another thing I saw, this unit was oversold as a EFI solution, when indeed it was never designed for such. If full control is what you need, but a EFI system.

chris951

I would never go back to a MAP system unless it was a standalone. Seriously, Link is not a reliable alternative to the AFM. I can get the HP from the Link by gutting my cat converter. I used to think that the Link was worth the money, but it is not worth the headache of tuning it. How many 951 race/track cars are using the GURU MAP upgrade?

Reliability is my main focus, like Wayne Corley of Ruf Auto Centre told me, "We don't play the horsepower game." If you make 50 more HP, but it runs so rich is smokes and it breaks down all the time, it is not worth it to me. I cannot stand aftermarket parts that make your car jerk and hesistate, but you make more power. A good aftermarket part will improve the reliability and performance without added headaches. I spent 2 years trying to get the GURU kit to work and all I got in the end was a dead piece of crap.

If you can get a MAP AFM Link to work, great! I definitely agree that it is not an EFI solution. For the price, I cannot justify or recommend it. The GURU kit has its problems and inadequacies, and the only part that worked correctly were the chips. I did not really have a choice of staying with it, it ended up dying on me.

I do not want to upset fellow rennlisters and I just want to warn them about the GURU kit...if it is still around.

Rogue_Ant

Sweet! So when we hitting the dyno Chris?


Rogue