HELP!! Car running terrible after new vac. lines and venturi delete
05-19-2007, 01:51 PM
#61
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Firing order
This must be really frustrating, I feel your pain. I have a spare TPS I would send you if you want to try it.
I know it has been covered several times but in your photos it looks like the #1 plug wire is where the #2 belongs on the dist. cap. Have you looked inside the cap to be sure the rotor etc. is OK? The first time I put one back on I did not have it right and the rotor hit a pin and broke it loose.
Lou
I know it has been covered several times but in your photos it looks like the #1 plug wire is where the #2 belongs on the dist. cap. Have you looked inside the cap to be sure the rotor etc. is OK? The first time I put one back on I did not have it right and the rotor hit a pin and broke it loose.
Lou
05-19-2007, 02:09 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by Ski
1. A decent shop should be able to do the vac lines or double check yours in less than 5 minutes.
2. If you do take it to a shop, get them to test the TPS and your AFM. If it is your AFM, many here will have one lying around, probably for shipping only or very cheap.
3. Timing is done on given maps in the computer so you can't adjust it (in stock configurations - disclaimer), however, it is possible that your timing belt could be off a tooth, maybe two.
Search "setting or finding TDC", and you'll find the how to and how to check. check out
www.clarks-garage.com - keep that site on your favorites.
The LEAST amount of splices you have, the better off you are - go for none. That reference sensor needs replacing.
Do you know if the car is on stock or aftermarket chips? How many miles on the car?
2. If you do take it to a shop, get them to test the TPS and your AFM. If it is your AFM, many here will have one lying around, probably for shipping only or very cheap.
3. Timing is done on given maps in the computer so you can't adjust it (in stock configurations - disclaimer), however, it is possible that your timing belt could be off a tooth, maybe two.
Search "setting or finding TDC", and you'll find the how to and how to check. check out
www.clarks-garage.com - keep that site on your favorites.
The LEAST amount of splices you have, the better off you are - go for none. That reference sensor needs replacing.
Do you know if the car is on stock or aftermarket chips? How many miles on the car?
I think I am going to pick up a new reference and the other sensor that sits with it in that bracket. Both of them are in similar condition but I have no yet touched the other sensor enough to make the plastic clip fall to pieces.
Well, if you say you've replaced all the vacuum lines the hissing you're describing sounds a lot like the attached pic.
This must be really frustrating, I feel your pain. I have a spare TPS I would send you if you want to try it.
I know it has been covered several times but in your photos it looks like the #1 plug wire is where the #2 belongs on the dist. cap. Have you looked inside the cap to be sure the rotor etc. is OK? The first time I put one back on I did not have it right and the rotor hit a pin and broke it loose.
Lou
I know it has been covered several times but in your photos it looks like the #1 plug wire is where the #2 belongs on the dist. cap. Have you looked inside the cap to be sure the rotor etc. is OK? The first time I put one back on I did not have it right and the rotor hit a pin and broke it loose.
Lou
My plug wires are in the correct order, but I have not removed the distributor cap to check the rotor. Since I didnt ever touch the distributor other than pulling the plug wires, I didnt think to check it.
Thanks for the help guys, I do appreciate it
05-19-2007, 03:35 PM
#63
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Ok so I was about to try and drive the car around the block to see if I could drive it to a shop, it will not idle now. I have to give it gas to keep the car running. Whatever controls the idle has completely stopped working. Car still runs rough, but it used to at least hold an idle. This time if I leave it alone it will stall out.
Does this sound like a dead ISV or is there something else that controls idle that could have died?
Does this sound like a dead ISV or is there something else that controls idle that could have died?
05-19-2007, 04:24 PM
#64
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I am pretty sure if you jumper two of the pins on the blink code socket it will take the ISV out of the circuit. I will search around some.
My boost gauge quit working and I am waiting to pull the air bag again, I am a little frustrated too.
Lou
My boost gauge quit working and I am waiting to pull the air bag again, I am a little frustrated too.
Lou
05-19-2007, 04:33 PM
#65
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I feel like hitting the easy button, I found this post right off.
"If it occurs when you re-start your warm engine, looks to be a problem.
If it is permanent, it seems to be common problem.
Looks like to be the cut off point, that ISV is going to be "off function".
Bridge the B&C pins in the test socket to disable the ISV & check the mentioned 2200 to 3000 rpms if it leans out without gear.( without gear is more visible)
What may happent, is that your idle will be way too rich, but the lean condition on 2200 to 3000 rpms will be gone.
To make the story short, looks prety common.
It will help to play with SMT on the affected cells in a warm engine, AFTER you removed the O2 sensor. In this case the DME will generate 0.4~.05 internal reference signal to emulate the missing O2.
Having this constant condition you will be able to correct the 2200 to 3000 rpms cells in a proper way.
Theo
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03-19-2006, 07:17 PM
"If it occurs when you re-start your warm engine, looks to be a problem.
If it is permanent, it seems to be common problem.
Looks like to be the cut off point, that ISV is going to be "off function".
Bridge the B&C pins in the test socket to disable the ISV & check the mentioned 2200 to 3000 rpms if it leans out without gear.( without gear is more visible)
What may happent, is that your idle will be way too rich, but the lean condition on 2200 to 3000 rpms will be gone.
To make the story short, looks prety common.
It will help to play with SMT on the affected cells in a warm engine, AFTER you removed the O2 sensor. In this case the DME will generate 0.4~.05 internal reference signal to emulate the missing O2.
Having this constant condition you will be able to correct the 2200 to 3000 rpms cells in a proper way.
Theo
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03-19-2006, 07:17 PM
05-19-2007, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 5speed300
Does this sound like a dead ISV or is there something else that controls idle that could have died?
05-19-2007, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by beab951
It sounds like the ISV. Try this, take off the vacuum line that goes from the ISV and the intake and cap off the line that went to the intake. This will completely disconnect the ISV. Then adjust the idle RPM using the idle adjust screw. If that works, replace the ISV
I jsut am annoyed because it rusn real rough even when i rev the engine up, which makes me think its not the ISV. But I guess if the ISV did have a massive vacuum leak it would cause this problem. Its worth a shot anyway.
lleroyb,
If i bridge those two pins, wont air still be flowing through the ISV and possibly leaking out?
05-19-2007, 07:57 PM
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Good point. It should tell you if the electrical side is malfuntioning though.
Do you have a couple of feet of small tubing? You can put one end close to your ear and listen with the other end. I don't hear the best and this helps me all the time. Kind of like grandma on the Beverly Hillbillies and her megaphone only more accurate.
FWIW I just spent two hours trying to reset the air bag light using a pushbutton between two alligator clips. Giving up in frustration I decided to test the switch, which it turned out to be bad. It reset on the first try with a new switch.
Your "new switch" is out there too.
Lou
Do you have a couple of feet of small tubing? You can put one end close to your ear and listen with the other end. I don't hear the best and this helps me all the time. Kind of like grandma on the Beverly Hillbillies and her megaphone only more accurate.
FWIW I just spent two hours trying to reset the air bag light using a pushbutton between two alligator clips. Giving up in frustration I decided to test the switch, which it turned out to be bad. It reset on the first try with a new switch.
Your "new switch" is out there too.
Lou
05-20-2007, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 5speed300
What about the line from the intercooler pipe to the ISV? I assume I need to cap that off as well?
05-20-2007, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by beab951
Yes, the intercooler connection is after the air is metered. A leak after the air is metered will cause the car to run lean....rough idle and no power.
Good point. It should tell you if the electrical side is malfuntioning though.Good point. It should tell you if the electrical side is malfuntioning though.
Do you have a couple of feet of small tubing? You can put one end close to your ear and listen with the other end. I don't hear the best and this helps me all the time. Kind of like grandma on the Beverly Hillbillies and her megaphone only more accurate.
FWIW I just spent two hours trying to reset the air bag light using a pushbutton between two alligator clips. Giving up in frustration I decided to test the switch, which it turned out to be bad. It reset on the first try with a new switch.
Your "new switch" is out there too.
Lou
Do you have a couple of feet of small tubing? You can put one end close to your ear and listen with the other end. I don't hear the best and this helps me all the time. Kind of like grandma on the Beverly Hillbillies and her megaphone only more accurate.
FWIW I just spent two hours trying to reset the air bag light using a pushbutton between two alligator clips. Giving up in frustration I decided to test the switch, which it turned out to be bad. It reset on the first try with a new switch.
Your "new switch" is out there too.
Lou
05-20-2007, 02:58 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by allergic2milk
I just disconnected both ISV hoses and covered one with a cap the other with a thumb, there was no difference. Car still will not idle by itself and runs very rough.
05-20-2007, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
Not sure what you mean by capping the other hose with a thumb?
05-20-2007, 04:07 PM
#75
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"Since I removed the KLR and those three pipes welded together, " If you really removed the KLR, did you plug the hose going to it? I saw that you "T'd" into it.
Just grasping here.
Lou
Just grasping here.
Lou