fast951

Kyle, Before you upgrade any component, make sure your car is 100% up to the task. Maintenance up to date? Is the cat-converter in good shap? Since you are on a budget, start with the items that you will keep once you make additional performance upgrades.
For a starter, get a WBO2 kit and a Boost gauge. Both will give you lots of data even before making any modifications.
The best and least expensive modification is a chip, followed by a dual port WG (Tial) and a MBC.
Depending on which chip you get, you might need a 3bar FPR.

Whatever you decide, leave lots of room for error. Don't get too happy with the boost ****, and make sure you use the highest octane as required by the chip.

Some components will work with additional mods: FPR, DP WG, Boost Gauge, Boost Controller. test pipe. Of course, a performance chip is needed one you start modifying.

JE_951

Innovate LC-1 - $199
LR MAF (stage 1) - $309
used MAF pipe - $70
Used LR Mafterburner - $300
LR Black **** - $60
Tial 38 (w/adaptors) $340
Chip made by Hally - $140

total: $1418

+ B&B exhaust (previously installed)

= 273RWHP and 293RWTQ (bad tune) at 15PSI (15.3psi max)

I loved the Innovate LC-1. Its increidbly cheap for a WBO2 and you can expand its abilities with RPM, temps, and voltages.

IF you are not going to do all this a once then I would go with exhaust, then WG/boost controller w/o turning up boost, then get chips and or a piggyback. Then you can turn up the boost. ALl this will set you up later for a larger turbo/injectors.

porschefig

Attyjeff: Do you have some sort of reader or laptop for your AEM Wideband? You essentially have LR's 340 whp kit + a few things.

JE_951

why would you need 55# injectors w/o upgrading the turbo? The stock fuel system can handle the boost levels that the 26/6 can attain (safely) and w/o over heating it. I ran 15psi w/ a 3.0FPR and was fairly rich at redline.

porschefig

John, I'm quite happy the maintenance done on this car by the PO's: I have over $11,000 in receipts.
Also, I have no plans of more than 15-16 psi. A few months back I started a thread asking how much it costed to make 340+ to the wheels W/O more than 15-16 psi or "homebrew" gasses.
If you buy a chip and then add more mods, how much can you do before you need a new chip?

JE_951, is your car still running a 26/6? Also, your ran the LC-1 w/o a gage. Just tuned w/ a laptop and the MAFterburner software and left it alone, I assume?

porschefig

That's why I started this thread, to find more things like that. I added a 3 bar FPR to the list because it's included in the LR 300 whp kit; which I'm basing most of my assumptions on. I added the 55# injectors b/c they seem to be needed for anymore power than that and b/c Russel can write the chip for whatever injectors you have. For now, I could definitely not get injectors, looks like I'd need new chips anyways when I go for my 340+whp goal.

JE_951

Yes I still have the 26/6. I would datalog/watch the a/f on the laptop as well as in he mafterburner software. I started by adjusting the idle, then slowely worked my way up to WOT. Then would datalog each "run" and would make adjustments with the a/f and MAF out voltage. Very easy to do.

I also liked the MAfterburner since you could have a 12-14psi (Safe) tune. and then I had a 18PSI tune for when I turned up the boost for fun runs. about 325RWTQ and 290RWHP. Just flip a switch and you were safe to run higher boost (as long as you tune the "tune 2").

JE_951

IF you go for a MAfterburner then I owuld conact HAlly for chips. His were cheap and worked great. I found that at 15psi the 3.0FPR made my a/f go from about 12.5 to 11.5 ( before adjustment) so it does give you more leeway with the stock injectors.

BTW I am aso a poor college kid so I did alot of research on how to use "cheaper" parts and still have a really solid car with good mods. PM me if you want any help with MAF/mafterburner stuff. aswell as install help with the lc-1 or with anyother mods I have done.

JE_951

Great thing about MAfterburner and HAlly's chips are that they both adjust hemselved for w/e size injectors you wish to run. OR buy Russels Maxtronic/tune and use it as a piggyback. Looks to be a great product. and since you will be addicted to more power, you wil be able to use the maxtronic to tune for a larger turbo. something you cant do with a single chip.

porschefig

I guess that leads me back to another question I asked recently. Is MAFterburner really worth $200 more than Power Perfect?

JE_951

I have heard that the MAfterburner is easier to tune with. I say his because i believe (not for sure) that the mafterburner will give you realtime readouts of a/f, as well as temps, voltages, and duty cycles.

also I believe you have to use the UEGO WB with it.

But agian I am not sure.

You cna also find a used MAfterburner for the same price as a new powerperfect.

ApexCars

If you are on a budget, get a boost guage. Then I would reccomend shimming your stock wastegate. That should help with boost and costs next to nothing so if you do need to go with the TiAl later, you aren't out anything. Chips and an MBC next. You don't need a $60 MBC. I paid around $12 for mine and it works very well. If you can afford a programmer, you will be able to fine tune your chips, but if you buy quality chips you will be very close anyway and you can add the programmer later. Most of the programmers will show alot of the data that the WBO2 system would give you so you can also add that later. Of course this all depends on your budget.

ApexCars

It is cheaper in the long run to get the injectors first because most chip makers will require a new burn on the chip when you change injector sizes. Some can handle changing turbo size without a reburn but others can't. If you do go with larger injectors, you will need to splice resistors into the wiring or you can burn out your DME. Resistors are really cheap though.

porschefig

Apex, good point about the MBC cost. Did you get all your parts from a hardware store or buy a premade MBC used?
Also, thanks for clarifying that I need resistors for those injectors.
Anyone have a good suggestion for where to buy injectors (for future reference) or anybody know for sure that a "pencil beam" spray is the same/different than stock?

Porschefile

It's a good idea if you know that you will be doing more mods in the future and making more than 300whp. It's a widely accepted rule of thumb that constantly running over 80% duty cycle on injectors can lead to injector failures. Pushing say 300whp on the stock 37# injectors puts you awfully close to that so it's basically a safety measure.