SFR Stage II exhaust headers DIY questions
04-03-2007, 08:47 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: A suburb of Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
3 Posts
I heard that some people loose the passanger side motor mount and with a jack tilt the engine enough to clear the headers.
04-04-2007, 10:21 AM
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Interesting question – I have to admit that I have never installed a set of the stage 2 headers with the engine in the car – only on ‘new’ engines.
I would guess that you will have to pull some of the studs and jacking the engine will help too. I really hate doing it that way because of the risk of damage to the threaded holes in the head when you ‘try’ to put the studs back in.
On some headers it helps to enlarge some of the mounting holes as they can be a very tight fit. Be careful and don’t get to carried away - you still need the header to be located correctly. I would leave one of the holes ‘stock’ sized and open up the others a bit. Of course this would be easier to do with the head off – there is no way of checking the head to header alignment with the engine in the car.
I would guess that you will have to pull some of the studs and jacking the engine will help too. I really hate doing it that way because of the risk of damage to the threaded holes in the head when you ‘try’ to put the studs back in.
On some headers it helps to enlarge some of the mounting holes as they can be a very tight fit. Be careful and don’t get to carried away - you still need the header to be located correctly. I would leave one of the holes ‘stock’ sized and open up the others a bit. Of course this would be easier to do with the head off – there is no way of checking the head to header alignment with the engine in the car.
04-04-2007, 10:41 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When I initially tried to do this with the head already torqued down, the #4 runner was way off. In frustration, 15 mins later, I had the cam housing including the head removed (great, there goes a cometic gasket). I went ahead and aligned the head with the header with the head off, since its a slip fit, the header now fits like it is supposed to. I tried installing everything together a few days back and left the header a bit loose.
I could not get the rear head studs to align since the #4 runner was not able to clear the body frame. That is the reason I posted this question. I figured, there had to be a way.
It would have been much easier if I did this when I had the long block off as suggested by Chris, but I recently made this decision and the block and the entire driveline is already in.
Thanks for your suggestions and help.
Regards.
Raj
I could not get the rear head studs to align since the #4 runner was not able to clear the body frame. That is the reason I posted this question. I figured, there had to be a way.
It would have been much easier if I did this when I had the long block off as suggested by Chris, but I recently made this decision and the block and the entire driveline is already in.
Thanks for your suggestions and help.
Regards.
Raj
04-05-2007, 12:47 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For everyone that responded, a big thank you, especially LA and others that recommended lifting the engine on passenger side. Worked like a charm. Ofcourse as always, something has to go wrong. I have a funny feeling that the front stud for the #4 is pulling. I stopped early enough but since its a short length stud, I think it pulled a bit. Now the big question, do I leave it alone or do I fix it? lol.
Thanks everyone.
BTW, the heatshield does hit against the manifold so I still need to figure out what to do there. Would it be safe to run without a heatshield?
Regards.
Raj
Thanks everyone.
BTW, the heatshield does hit against the manifold so I still need to figure out what to do there. Would it be safe to run without a heatshield?
Regards.
Raj
04-05-2007, 01:32 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Not sure if it's the same on the 968, but on the 951, the heat shield can be strategically "countoured" a bit with a hammer and dolly. 
One the pulling stud, for a low-effort option, can you remove the stud and see if there is grip deeper in the hole with a longer stud or bolt?
One the pulling stud, for a low-effort option, can you remove the stud and see if there is grip deeper in the hole with a longer stud or bolt?
01-02-2009, 11:26 AM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Help: Thinking of single large oil cooler for 951S race car
I've searched archives and it all of the threads I could find are at least a year old...hoping there may be some new found wisdom.
This is for my 951S race car. I feel I need to do something for more effective oil cooling. Since PCA will now allow us to remove the A/C condenser, I'd like to put in a single large cooler in the area where the condenser used to be. Plus...moving the factory oil cooler out would allow me to do some more effective ducting for brake cooling.
I've actually have a brand new KISS system sitting on my bench...I'm not not convinced that it's the way I want to go and besides, my dad & I are looking for a project.
What size cooler would I need that would roughly equal the cooling function of the factory cooler + the KiSS setup? What do I need to be thinking about relative to lines/connectors as well?
Thanks much for the wisdom...
Cheers,
Rick
This is for my 951S race car. I feel I need to do something for more effective oil cooling. Since PCA will now allow us to remove the A/C condenser, I'd like to put in a single large cooler in the area where the condenser used to be. Plus...moving the factory oil cooler out would allow me to do some more effective ducting for brake cooling.
I've actually have a brand new KISS system sitting on my bench...I'm not not convinced that it's the way I want to go and besides, my dad & I are looking for a project.
What size cooler would I need that would roughly equal the cooling function of the factory cooler + the KiSS setup? What do I need to be thinking about relative to lines/connectors as well?
Thanks much for the wisdom...
Cheers,
Rick
01-02-2009, 12:59 PM
#24
Hey 968turbos I have the same header and I know exactly what you are talking about. PM me a number and I will call you and explain what I have to do. Can take picks as well. My #1 angle was so tight that I had to do some mods and mount it a certain way to get it to fit. I did retain my heat shield though. Did you get the crossover and inlet pipe as well?
01-02-2009, 01:57 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Rick, if you haven't yet, you might want to look into the RX-7 option (https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ght=oil+cooler). Not sure what kind of number this things gets, but it sounds like it might meet most of your requirements. I would imagine Earl's on gasoline alley could build any lines you need. HTH.
