Let Me Die: Clutch Master Cylinder
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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Hey just in the middle of this fun job, replacing both master and slave and blue hose, I have searched the past posts extensively and gotten a ton of good info from them. My progress so far:
1) starter out
2) disconnected from clutch pedal
3) bolts on master are loose
4) blue hose is removed
Now to the hell that is trying to disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder. With all of the assorted flare nut wrenches, normal, praying, etc. I can not get this line off. My question, at this point, would it be best to just replace that line altogether? It looks like it loops up and connects to some sort of fitting behind the intake manifold. Anyway, what are your thoughts.
This is making my battle with the clutch on my NA look like cake. On suicide watch.
1) starter out
2) disconnected from clutch pedal
3) bolts on master are loose
4) blue hose is removed
Now to the hell that is trying to disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder. With all of the assorted flare nut wrenches, normal, praying, etc. I can not get this line off. My question, at this point, would it be best to just replace that line altogether? It looks like it loops up and connects to some sort of fitting behind the intake manifold. Anyway, what are your thoughts.
This is making my battle with the clutch on my NA look like cake. On suicide watch.
#4
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
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its very tight there it just takes lots of patience/swearing to get it done. Kind of like when I pulled my xover pipe with the brake booster heatshield in place a while ago
#6
Rennlist Member
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That line has a bracket that's on the torque tube flange that bolts to the bell housing, I believe (it's been a while...)
Vice-grips also work nicely on those brake fittings -- if you don't plan on reusing them. You may also have to re-bolt the master to the firewall to "hold it in place" while you undo the brake line.
Vice-grips also work nicely on those brake fittings -- if you don't plan on reusing them. You may also have to re-bolt the master to the firewall to "hold it in place" while you undo the brake line.
#7
Rennlist Member
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Not to add to your misery, but you're well served to replace the hydraulic line between the slave and the clutch master while you're doing the job. They leak too in time. Think of it this way -- if you replace that line, you can forget about flare nut wrenches and just remove the old one with tin snips.
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