Boost gauge and controller questions
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Just bought Max chips, 3bar fpr, and the cubby gauge plate w/ wideband, boost gauge and manual boost controller. MAybe stupid questions, but have spent the last two night using search and still have these:
1. The light for the boost gauge has two very short wires, can you use the bolts that are holding a metal strip down behind the cubby as a ground?
2. It appears to be about impossible to reach the cycling valve w/o taking the intake off. Anyone do it leaving the intake on?
Chips went in fine, fpr was no problem. The tubing that comes w/ the Autometer boost gauge is horrible to say the least, can't hardly bend it straight.
Thanks in advance.
1. The light for the boost gauge has two very short wires, can you use the bolts that are holding a metal strip down behind the cubby as a ground?
2. It appears to be about impossible to reach the cycling valve w/o taking the intake off. Anyone do it leaving the intake on?
Chips went in fine, fpr was no problem. The tubing that comes w/ the Autometer boost gauge is horrible to say the least, can't hardly bend it straight.
Thanks in advance.
#3
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Although the cubby mount is screwed to the floorpan, I would not consider it a good electrical ground. Why not just tie it into the radio ground?
CV? HA, get used to the idea of pulling the intake. That's also a good time to check your other hoses and connections. Try searching cycling valve, hours of reading under the subject.
CV? HA, get used to the idea of pulling the intake. That's also a good time to check your other hoses and connections. Try searching cycling valve, hours of reading under the subject.
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ive pulled two cycling valves recently and deleted them w/o pulling the intake. I have large hands and it only took maybe 10 minutes, a fitting and two clamps.
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Originally Posted by bigred1001
Just bought Max chips, 3bar fpr, and the cubby gauge plate w/ wideband, boost gauge and manual boost controller. MAybe stupid questions, but have spent the last two night using search and still have these:
1. The light for the boost gauge has two very short wires, can you use the bolts that are holding a metal strip down behind the cubby as a ground?
2. It appears to be about impossible to reach the cycling valve w/o taking the intake off. Anyone do it leaving the intake on?
Chips went in fine, fpr was no problem. The tubing that comes w/ the Autometer boost gauge is horrible to say the least, can't hardly bend it straight.
Thanks in advance.
1. The light for the boost gauge has two very short wires, can you use the bolts that are holding a metal strip down behind the cubby as a ground?
2. It appears to be about impossible to reach the cycling valve w/o taking the intake off. Anyone do it leaving the intake on?
Chips went in fine, fpr was no problem. The tubing that comes w/ the Autometer boost gauge is horrible to say the least, can't hardly bend it straight.
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the info.
It appears to me now that having the mbc in the cockpit might be a PITA to install.
For those that have done it:
Do you remove the glove box to access holes to run vacuum line from?
Do you just use a hard line to connect a new vacuum hose to the banjo bolt line on the intercooler pipe? The hose is crimped at the bolt.
Lastly, do you take a drill and bore a hole into the firewall to open up a space to run the two lines into the engine bay?
It appears to me now that having the mbc in the cockpit might be a PITA to install.
For those that have done it:
Do you remove the glove box to access holes to run vacuum line from?
Do you just use a hard line to connect a new vacuum hose to the banjo bolt line on the intercooler pipe? The hose is crimped at the bolt.
Lastly, do you take a drill and bore a hole into the firewall to open up a space to run the two lines into the engine bay?
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Yes, I removed my glovebox to route the vac line. I used silicone line from the banjo bolt to the MBC, and a hard line to the WG. I fit the lines in a stock grommet on the firewall with only slight widening of the grommet.