reno808

i am only a couple of weeks in ording the escort cups coil overs. I am wondering if its worth spending an extra 350 for the camber plates?

xsboost90

welts need the spacers to maintain stock ride height- or you can take the 1.5" drop and lower the rear accentrics to match- thats what i would do.

ehall

Hey cincy,
Performance products is notoriously expensive compared to other vendors, including Paragon, who are site sponsors and renowned for their customer service and expertise. I would seriously consider going with Paragon for your upgrades, if I were you. Skip and Jason really know these cars.

ehall

are you planning to do a large number of DE's? If so then yes. If not then I would go with the KLA monoball upper mounts, and get a good aggressive street alignment. You'll probably need an alignment anyway, so together with the KLA's you'd break even or even save a little. I run a monoball set up that I bought from Dereck Grannison. It's a basic mod to the stock uppers with a monoball bearing setup. I've been very happy with it. Unfortunately he only made this set, so KLA is the closest you'll get. They make good stuff. For the vast majority of people, camber plates are little more than bling, because they really dopn't make any adjustments once they have an alignment. For a track car I would consider them essential.
ps I also run Escort Cups.

reno808

ehall they are going to be for DE's and street. and later on a track car. this year i'll prob to around 3 de's min

ehall

I'd go with monoballs and an aggressive alignment then.

reno808

ehall what kind of set up are you running on your escort cups? did you find it hard to install them?

ehall

Not hard at all. I deleted T-bars. That takes a bit longer, but still not hard to do. You can remove the stock strut/springs without removing the springs, so no spring anti-decapitator is needed. It's really very simple. Read the write up on Clarks and do a search on RL for Chuck Moreland. That's all you'll need for instructions. Make sure that you know if/how far you want to lower your car. Your spring length is important in that regard. I wanted to stay pretty close to stock ride height, so I went with 10" and 7" length srpings.
I'm running the fully valved E cups. 650/380 FR and 560/220 rear. 550#springs rear, 400# fronts. Definitely not too stiff. Stiff yes, but not too stiff. Get 2.25" ID springs if you can. It will save you from getting adaptors in the front.

reno808

Ehall if you dont mind can i go offline with this because i have just a few questions about it. I want to lower my car to around 1inch front and back. I want the height and the the front and back. i was thinking 380/150 vavled in and the front and 565/218 in the back with T-Bars. Perhaps using 300# in the fr and 400# coils in the back. Over here in NY the roads are HORRIBLE.

vt951

Guys, I'm about to install my new 250# weltmeister progressive spings. Does it matter which end goes up (the end where the coils are closer together, or the end where they are further apart)? I think it probably doesn't matter, but I don't want to have to take this stuff apart again if I get it wrong. Thanks for your help!

ehall

I'm not positive but I believe that it does in fact matter. I've only seen them done one way. Let me look real quick.
I belive that the spread side faces up.

vt951

Now that I've got the 250# springs up front, 28mm rear torsion bars, and koni adjustable shocks all around, I'm considering upgrading the sway bars to 30mm in front and 19mm adjustable in rear (both sold at Paragon).

Do you guys think this would make a noticeable difference in autocross style driving (lots of quick turns). Seems to me that sway bars should help out quite a bit. Also seems like I should be able to use the adjustable rear sway bar to dial in oversteer/understeer as desired. Am I right? Sorry if this is suspension 101 for most of you...

xsboost90

i have the mo30 bars and they are great. ONly problem is i added them at the same time as my 400lb springs. I know Vinny added just those bars and said it was night and day better. rear bar does work to dial out over/understeer. I have mine full soft right now.

ehall

This is actually one of the most complicated subjects you'll find. suspensions work as systems. Yes you can add the F/R M030's, but you are making a compromise. You could go with stock sways but add really stiff shocks/struts and you also would be making a compromise. When you make a compromise, you create a semi-unknown control issue. Until you find the conditions at which it becomes "oh ****! oh FU%^" time, you can't actually "KNOW" where the weakspot is. If you do what you propose you may or may not find that point. However, it is based on your driving skill/experience as well as your reflexes and your ability to recognize the moment, as well as recreate that moment reliably.
I don't think you'll kill yourself by adding m030 sways; but that doesn't mean that you won't find the limit on a public road and get yourself whacked.
It's something that can only be known on your car by you, and how you drive.
Keep in mind that your tires have a very important role in this type of discussion as well.
As I said, it's a VERY complicated system made up of VERY simple parts.

ehall

btw oddjob knows his ****!