Need 951 Suspension Advice... autocross/street setup
#48
Hey cincy,
Performance products is notoriously expensive compared to other vendors, including Paragon, who are site sponsors and renowned for their customer service and expertise. I would seriously consider going with Paragon for your upgrades, if I were you. Skip and Jason really know these cars.
Performance products is notoriously expensive compared to other vendors, including Paragon, who are site sponsors and renowned for their customer service and expertise. I would seriously consider going with Paragon for your upgrades, if I were you. Skip and Jason really know these cars.
#49
Originally Posted by reno808
i am only a couple of weeks in ording the escort cups coil overs. I am wondering if its worth spending an extra 350 for the camber plates?
ps I also run Escort Cups.
#53
Not hard at all. I deleted T-bars. That takes a bit longer, but still not hard to do. You can remove the stock strut/springs without removing the springs, so no spring anti-decapitator is needed. It's really very simple. Read the write up on Clarks and do a search on RL for Chuck Moreland. That's all you'll need for instructions. Make sure that you know if/how far you want to lower your car. Your spring length is important in that regard. I wanted to stay pretty close to stock ride height, so I went with 10" and 7" length srpings.
I'm running the fully valved E cups. 650/380 FR and 560/220 rear. 550#springs rear, 400# fronts. Definitely not too stiff. Stiff yes, but not too stiff. Get 2.25" ID springs if you can. It will save you from getting adaptors in the front.
I'm running the fully valved E cups. 650/380 FR and 560/220 rear. 550#springs rear, 400# fronts. Definitely not too stiff. Stiff yes, but not too stiff. Get 2.25" ID springs if you can. It will save you from getting adaptors in the front.
#54
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,809
Likes: 0
From: In the garage trying to keep boost down
Ehall if you dont mind can i go offline with this because i have just a few questions about it. I want to lower my car to around 1inch front and back. I want the height and the the front and back. i was thinking 380/150 vavled in and the front and 565/218 in the back with T-Bars. Perhaps using 300# in the fr and 400# coils in the back. Over here in NY the roads are HORRIBLE.
Last edited by reno808; 02-13-2007 at 02:59 PM.
#55
Stupid Question - Which way is up for progressive springs?
Guys, I'm about to install my new 250# weltmeister progressive spings. Does it matter which end goes up (the end where the coils are closer together, or the end where they are further apart)? I think it probably doesn't matter, but I don't want to have to take this stuff apart again if I get it wrong. Thanks for your help!
#57
Now that I've got the 250# springs up front, 28mm rear torsion bars, and koni adjustable shocks all around, I'm considering upgrading the sway bars to 30mm in front and 19mm adjustable in rear (both sold at Paragon).
Do you guys think this would make a noticeable difference in autocross style driving (lots of quick turns). Seems to me that sway bars should help out quite a bit. Also seems like I should be able to use the adjustable rear sway bar to dial in oversteer/understeer as desired. Am I right? Sorry if this is suspension 101 for most of you...
Do you guys think this would make a noticeable difference in autocross style driving (lots of quick turns). Seems to me that sway bars should help out quite a bit. Also seems like I should be able to use the adjustable rear sway bar to dial in oversteer/understeer as desired. Am I right? Sorry if this is suspension 101 for most of you...
#58
i have the mo30 bars and they are great. ONly problem is i added them at the same time as my 400lb springs. I know Vinny added just those bars and said it was night and day better. rear bar does work to dial out over/understeer. I have mine full soft right now.
#59
Now that I've got the 250# springs up front, 28mm rear torsion bars, and koni adjustable shocks all around, I'm considering upgrading the sway bars to 30mm in front and 19mm adjustable in rear (both sold at Paragon).
Do you guys think this would make a noticeable difference in autocross style driving (lots of quick turns). Seems to me that sway bars should help out quite a bit. Also seems like I should be able to use the adjustable rear sway bar to dial in oversteer/understeer as desired. Am I right? Sorry if this is suspension 101 for most of you...
Do you guys think this would make a noticeable difference in autocross style driving (lots of quick turns). Seems to me that sway bars should help out quite a bit. Also seems like I should be able to use the adjustable rear sway bar to dial in oversteer/understeer as desired. Am I right? Sorry if this is suspension 101 for most of you...
I don't think you'll kill yourself by adding m030 sways; but that doesn't mean that you won't find the limit on a public road and get yourself whacked.
It's something that can only be known on your car by you, and how you drive.
Keep in mind that your tires have a very important role in this type of discussion as well.
As I said, it's a VERY complicated system made up of VERY simple parts.