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No Start Troubles (Part 2) PICS ADDED 01/28

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Old 01-28-2007, 11:48 PM
  #16  
Zero10
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What do you mean the clear tube is a vent for the #4 cylinder?....
Old 01-28-2007, 11:59 PM
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BlacknRedGT
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http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchan...Code=STEAMVENT
Old 01-29-2007, 12:06 AM
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968turbos2
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The ref sensors scaped the flywheel. That is what tore them up. On the flywheel the ref sensors read small allen heads positioned around the crank; hence reference sensor. The references are those little pieces of metal that you heard. Need to inspect flywheel. If broken you'll need a new one. Got one if so.
Old 01-29-2007, 12:58 AM
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BlacknRedGT
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968, I have replaced the reference sensors...... That is why the car wouldnt start awhile back. Now the car starts and sputters for a bit.
Old 01-29-2007, 12:59 AM
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BlacknRedGT
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I think tom might have nailed it with the wires not being shielded... waiting for him to chime in with the questions I asked.
Old 01-29-2007, 11:13 PM
  #21  
Tom M'Guinn

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I think 968turbos2 makes a good point about the mechanical condition of the crank tigger on the flywheel -- you had a lot going on in there -- you should be able to take a look by removing the sensors and turning the crank until the trigger passes under where the sensor points. Having said that, in a fight between the trigger and the sensor, I bet the trigger wins almost every time. Back to the ref sensor harness, I'd be inclined to put the new connectors directly on the factory wires -- there is plenty of extra length on the sensor side if you have to shorten the engine bay side a bit. Hard to say if the unshielded wires are causing your problem (not sure anyone has ever tried using so much unshielded wire like that), but it won't be wasted time either way. I am not aware of Eagleday or anyone selling the exact wire used in the harness, but if you attach the connectors to the factory harness, you should be able to minimize electrical interference. Just be darn sure all the wires are connected correctly and that the two sensors are not switched by mistake. The only way to confirm for sure is with an ohm meter, testing for continuity between the engine harness wires and the corresponding pins on the DME connector in the footwell.

In the meantime, have you checked for fuel and spark? Always worthwhile starting with the basics!
Old 01-30-2007, 01:13 PM
  #22  
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I think I misunderstood what 968 what talking about... Is the " trigger" the little screw looking thing sticking out on the flywheel?? or is there more then one ? Can I see it with the starter out?

If it is the screw looking thing i did get some pics of it after I messed the 1st two sensors up: here are the pics.

Last edited by BlacknRedGT; 02-24-2008 at 03:48 PM.
Old 01-30-2007, 02:28 PM
  #23  
sharky47
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Crimped connections on something as sensitive as a Hall Effect sensor is bad news.
Old 01-30-2007, 04:10 PM
  #24  
BlacknRedGT
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ya im gonna move the female sensors to where they need to be as well as get rid of the crimped connections and put some foil around it until I can find some good cable shielding. Hopefully that works.. I really do not want to have to open the bellhousing.



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