BlacknRedGT

Ok as most of you know... I have just finished with a clutch change and Im at the very end. At first I could get the car to just crank over and over... Well it was doing that because I set the speed and ref sensors wrong and the flywheel got a hold of the sensors and ripped them apart...

Well I just put in 2 new sensors (a piece of metal just fell in the clutch area from one of the old sensors)
I also replaced the female ends of the sensors because they were bad.....

I couldnt find the piece of metal by turning the engine over and looking where the starter goes so I basically just hooked everything up and hoped for the best.

Well now The car will start and stumble for awhile then die. the flywheel did seem to stop on some of the starts like there was metal caught up in there. So could this be why it starts and stumbles or is it something else??

I also dont have the clips on the injector wires to hold them in place. Not sure if that would cause the problem either... And I also dont have my wastegate hooked up and the throttle cable is a little bit loose (or it seems like to me)

Any help would be great. If you need more info just ask. Thanks

BlacknRedGT

ohhh ya... I stopped trying to start it after about 5 times dying because I heard a big pop... It sounded like a backfire but Im not positive. (I just put on a lindsey 4 inch system and a new 3 inch downpipe)

BlacknRedGT

Anyone

Zero10

Sounds like there are a few things unfinished.....
If you are having a rough running / stumbling problem, my advice would be to check for large vacuum leaks anywhere, AFM, j boot, intercooler pipe boots, etc.
I doubt a small piece of metal would stop a flywheel spinning at a few hundred RPM. I had some bolts get loose in the bellhousing on my 951, and there is lots of aluminum missing from it, so I doubt a small piece of aluminum or even the magnet from one of the speed/reference sensors would stop the flywheel.

BlacknRedGT

The line going to the wastegate is not plugged up, is that enough to cause the problem?

Zero10

not plugged up, or not connected?.....
It shouldn't cause that big of a problem, but definately take a look around for other vacuum leaks. I had mine disconnected for a while and the car pretty much ran fine at idle.

BlacknRedGT

Well the line going to wastegate is not plugged up or connected....... I also have some small tears in the one of the boots for the intercooler pipe... I might have something plugged up wrong, the PO changed around the vacuum system and now I have a hose going from the intake/to FPR/to Dampner/to BOV (for some reason when looking at the vacuum diagrams that doesnt look right???

Zero10

Umm......

If you have tears in the intercooler boots, why didn't you fix them already?
If you might have something 'plugged up wrong', then you might consider going over the intake system with a fine tooth comb. There is a very good guide to vacuum line routing on Clark's Garage.
Connect the wastegate line, tighten the throttle cable and adjust the throttle stop (the little screw, not the idle adjustment screw), put the clips on the injector wires, and go over the intake.
It really sounds like you have a whole bunch of issues, and it won't benefit us sitting here and taking guesses when there are so many other things wrong.

Tom M'Guinn

These cars can run with surprisingly big vacuum leaks, but there are limits. Sounds like you are aware of at least several good size leaks -- so start by connecting the wastegate line to the wastegate and replacing the intercooler coupler. That might be the difference between sputtering and running. Once it runs though, the car won't be any fun unless you sort it all out -- fix all vacuum leaks and ensure the vacuum plumbing is correct. Here are good vacuum diagrams:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchan...ry_Code=VACDIA

BlacknRedGT

ok I tightened the throttle cable up and plugged the line going to the wastegate. The tiny cracks in the hardpipe boot are pretty much nothing... I would have to put this apart just to barely see them. Check out these pictures: I have yet to see a diagram where the line goes from the manifold/ to FPR/ to Dampner/ to BOV like shown below. I checked out all the big vacuum lines and they seem fine. Im not even sure where some of these lines go so take a look and see if theres any major problems.

BlacknRedGT

also could the metal getting caught up in the starter (if it did) cause some of the fins to break and maybe throw sensors off because its not turning the flywheel fast enough or something?

Tom M'Guinn

Look at the first diagram in the link I posted above -- it shows exactly what you are describing.

It's tough to sort out this kind of problem without being there and/or having more info. Did plugging the wastegate line help? Why did you plug it and not connect it where it belongs? Where is that clear tube going to/from? What is that wad of red crimped wires? (Hopefully not the ref sensor wires!) Did you take apart the hoses/lines when you did the clutch? Put them back the same way? It's not uncommon to mix up the oil vent hose and the idle stabilizer hose -- did you check that?

Are you sure you set the sensors to the right height? Did you use the old sensor with a .8mm washer glued on technique -- or try to eyeball it? Which connectors did you change -- the ones on the engine harness or the ones on the sensors?

BlacknRedGT

ok its does look like the 1st diagram... I cannot connect the connection to the wastegate because Im missing a pipe for it, still waiting on confirmation to get the part. Plugging the wastegate line had no effect.

The clear tube is a vent for the #4 cylinder. The hoses should be put together right. The PO zip tied everything so its pretty much impossible to mix them up.

I Used a tool to set the sensors right. Didnt eyeball it. The red crimped wires are from the female side of the ref sensors. Im waiting to put them together and wrap them until I get the engine started/
I changed the actuall sensors and the female side (harness side) connectors.

Tom M'Guinn

Ok. The ref sensors have very low voltages and are vulnerable to electrical noise, which is why the factory used shielded cables. You have quite a bit of unshielded red wire there, and it would not surprise me if you are getting false signals. In the long run, you normally save time with these cars by not trying to cut take shortcuts. Eagleday has the connectors you need for the harness. I'd clean that up and try again. (In the meantime, I suppose you could try separating those wires or trying some tin foil or something to shield each wire...)

BlacknRedGT

Ok well heres what I did in more detail:

Installed 2 new ref sensors. The old female side of the connectors were so beaten up the new connectors would not connect.

so I ordered 2 new female housings (one for each sensor) and all the connectors to set them up. Then I cut off the old female housings and extended there wires abour 4 inchs so I could have room to work with and possibly reroute the sensor wires. I extended the wires with what you see.. just reg red wire into the female housing.

Does eagleday sell the shielded cable?? Would it be 6 wires just like above or is it like the stock porsche wire where all 3 cables are in one shield?