chapstic951

Did you happen to see my comment about the outlet pipe of my wastegate being cold and all other pipes being hot? Is that the correct characteristic?

Also, what is VAC? Vacuum?

xsboost90

ok- reading this i have come to the realization that when i put my Tial 38mm on in a few weeks, w/ a black ****- dual port boost controller- i am going to have to bypass some stuff....so i take it you HAVE to bypass the cycling valve when you swap WG's??? I thought that was an optional thing.

reno808

chapstic951 vac is Vacuum you check with a vac gun to test. like the ones you use to bleed brakes.
xsboost90 you have to bypass the CV.

FSAEracer03

You're going to have some odd charactaristics like the original poster if you don't. The most similar you could make your boost curve to stock is to get a 0.2bar (<3psi) spring for the new wastegate... which wouldn't be your best performance option.

It's unfortunate you have to bypass the CV and really negate a lot of what the KLR originally performed, but that's the price you pay!

Did anyone here know these cars had "overboost" from the factory? It's recently become a really hot feature on the 997TT and the BMW 335i, but Bosch integrated it into the 951's KLR in 1986. Under certain conditions, the system allowed 10% more boost for short periods of time. That was never factored into the factories power and torque ratings.

xsboost90

ugh...i know theres a thread around here somewhere on HOW to bypass the CV , i'll search, but can it be done w/o removing the intake?

chapstic951

I tested the DV and it holds open fine with vacuum applied. I still don't know how to test the wastegate after reading Clark's Garage. That being said, I have a manual boost controller en route, so I will try that. Hopefully bypassing the CV will help.

Also, I am going to remove the ISV/ICV since it sounds like it is leaking like a sieve. I don't drive it much in the cold so I don't expect much of a problem sans ICV.

FSAEracer03

The CV can be bypassed easily without removing the intake. You simply remove the rear line that goes to the wastegate (reachable behind the intake manifold) and use that. Unplug the CV's electrical connector and plug the vacuum ports.

chapstic951

Yeah, I had the intake on and off in about 20-minutes the other day, so getting to the rats nest shouldn't pose a problem. Since I am going to take care of the ICV too, it will be just as easy to do it all at once with the intake out of the way.

chapstic951

Ahhh....the MBC has been installed and the CV removed and my boost holds steady at 11psi. It isn't as fun as pushing 20, but it is safe and my engine is thanking me in the long run. Hopefully more boost will come sooner than later.

I also removed my ISV/ICV and my idle is ****e. In fact, I had to hold the gas down just to keep it running. Even after it warmed up, it hovered around 500rpm....oh well, this is a concern for another post.