Raceware or ARP Head Bolts
10-07-2006 | 11:58 PM
#2
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From: Heber Springs, AR
10-08-2006 | 12:04 AM
#3
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From: Just CA Now :)
They are studs. 
Raceware studs work great and are available direct from raceware, and from most 944 shops (Lindsey, etc.). ARP doesn't list head studs for the 944 in their catalog, but EBS Racing in California sells what they claim are 944 ARP head studs -- not sure if they are custom studs, mfg for a different car, or what? I've not seen anyone else advertise ARP studs for the 944.
Raceware studs work great and are available direct from raceware, and from most 944 shops (Lindsey, etc.). ARP doesn't list head studs for the 944 in their catalog, but EBS Racing in California sells what they claim are 944 ARP head studs -- not sure if they are custom studs, mfg for a different car, or what? I've not seen anyone else advertise ARP studs for the 944.
Last edited by Tom M'Guinn; 01-13-2007 at 11:51 AM.
01-13-2007 | 01:33 AM
#6
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From: Buffalo, NY
stock studs need to be replaced usually after i beleive it is 3 uses since they are stretch fasteners, but the raceware/arp are reusable and can hold more power and less prone to letting the head lift. have you seen the special tool 543hp dyno run video? It shows the head lifting which he is using stock studs there
01-13-2007 | 02:03 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
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From: Austin, TX
Raceware's site doesn't give much info, though the people I've talked to that have used their stuff never seem to have any problems so I'm sure they're decent. I vote ARP simply because they are widely proven in practically every combustion engine known to man, in every motorsport, etc etc plus their website lists all of the info you could ever want to know about the alloys and metallurgic properties for their specific products.
The reason you'd want to upgrade is most OEM bolts/studs tend to stretch more than aftermarket stuff will. Aftermarket stuff tends to have higher grade alloys that are stronger. When flowing larger amounts of airflow, you want to make sure your studs/bolts are less likely to stretch so that you are less likely to blow/damage anything.
The reason you'd want to upgrade is most OEM bolts/studs tend to stretch more than aftermarket stuff will. Aftermarket stuff tends to have higher grade alloys that are stronger. When flowing larger amounts of airflow, you want to make sure your studs/bolts are less likely to stretch so that you are less likely to blow/damage anything.
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01-13-2007 | 03:09 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 1
From: Costa Mesa, CA
The ARP studs EBS sells are "real". Coin flip between ARP and Raceware, they will both do what they're supposed to do.
BTW, everything below was ordered by calling up EBS and saying "I have a bare block, I need everything to put it back together." Plus a few goodies thrown in on the side.
BTW, everything below was ordered by calling up EBS and saying "I have a bare block, I need everything to put it back together." Plus a few goodies thrown in on the side.
01-13-2007 | 08:50 AM
#9
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,096
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From: Kent, UK
Originally Posted by Porschefile
Raceware's site doesn't give much info, though the people I've talked to that have used their stuff never seem to have any problems so I'm sure they're decent. I vote ARP simply because they are widely proven in practically every combustion engine known to man, in every motorsport, etc etc plus their website lists all of the info you could ever want to know about the alloys and metallurgic properties for their specific products.
The reason you'd want to upgrade is most OEM bolts/studs tend to stretch more than aftermarket stuff will. Aftermarket stuff tends to have higher grade alloys that are stronger. When flowing larger amounts of airflow, you want to make sure your studs/bolts are less likely to stretch so that you are less likely to blow/damage anything.
The reason you'd want to upgrade is most OEM bolts/studs tend to stretch more than aftermarket stuff will. Aftermarket stuff tends to have higher grade alloys that are stronger. When flowing larger amounts of airflow, you want to make sure your studs/bolts are less likely to stretch so that you are less likely to blow/damage anything.
01-13-2007 | 09:35 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,458
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by special tool
Link?
Here's the link to ARP's Tech Section which will give you about all the info you could want about this stuff.
01-13-2007 | 11:29 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Kent, UK
Originally Posted by special tool
Link?
They ocassionaly do auctions on ebay then you can get them for $179
Here is a link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6647881&rd=1,1
All their contact details on there
Cheers
Tom
02-07-2007 | 10:18 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,096
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From: Kent, UK
I have gone ARP on head studs now, just wish they did Main bearing/girdle Studs.
Only raceware do them and they are quite pricey compared to the head studs. I even tried Raceware direct and they were more expensive than their dealers!!!!!!
Only raceware do them and they are quite pricey compared to the head studs. I even tried Raceware direct and they were more expensive than their dealers!!!!!!