ANORXIC'51'

Been trying to hunt down why I thought my car has decided to cut out/sputter/backfire at 2,000 rpm and above whether in gear or neutral. Replaced the AFM with a known good one(checked the U-arm and the film it rides on under the cover) and it helped. Now it gets to 2,300 before all the foolishness happens. Pulled the intake manifold and checked all vacuum hoses and lines for cracks. Just finished replacing all the lines PLUS the venturi delete using hoses cut to length via Napa. I still hear a hissing around the AFM/J-boot area, but realize the afm does faintly hiss by nature.
Is the TPS supposed to click(car off when I tested) when you barely crack the throttle plate and then click again when released?

Car is an 86 Turbo. Already has a 3.0 fpr.

It just seems like the mother of all vacuum leaks because it starts bogging down and shuddering(losing rpms) at 2200-2300 rpms, then when you try to blip or rev the throttle to get revs back up, it starts popping and then backfires flames out the exhaust by 2500 and above.

theedge

Yes, TPS has to click just as you crack the throttle open and again as it comes to full closed UNDER SPRING PRESSURE ONLY.

Do the adjustment when the car is off.

What youre describing is what happened to me when my TPS shat itself except mine was much worse (car was undrivable almost). New TPS cleared everything up.

Jeremy Himsel

Hey, I got your message then lost your number. Give me a call again.

adrial

I will push your car off a cliff if you push mine!

I haven't given up but it has certaintly been extremely annoying....

What does your a/f gauge indicate when this is happening? Is it a wideband?

If you suspect the TPS, you can unplug it...car will still be driveable although with a high idle.

Rogue_Ant

Any other issues running an unplugged TPS other then high-idle?



Rogue

AlexE

It will run on part throttle maps.... so don't be doing too many WOT runs.

But I drove mine for a couple of weeks with it disconected. No probs. Just high idle.