I this doable?

- Loosen balance shaft gear bolt, set crank to TDC (skipping flywheel lock)
- Detension belt and remove from top balance shaft gear
- Remove gear
- Unbolt housing, reseal, reinstall
- Replace belt, tension, check timing

 

You need to remove the rear balance shaft cover to get the housing off, which will require pulling the crank pulley/gears, which will require a flywheel lock and removal of all the belts.

 

Doc, are you talking about the disk in the rear, sandwiched in between the housing and block? Looks like as long as the housing will lift ~.5" from the block it's all good to go.

I have the lock, I'm just trying to shave minutes off my pit time. With the Iceshark batt cables, there's a little more "configuration" than normal.

I just discovered the M13 bolt under the turbo supply line has sheared off about 2 threads down from the shank, that just doubled the repair time.

 

I'm sorry, too many things at once. I meant the rear timing belt cover.

 

So, it sounds reasonable? Seems like it to me.

PO cut a slice in the rear belt cover to facilitate ???, this alows me plenty of flex to get the front seal housing off the shaft.

 

Get some Loctite 518 and some activator if you wish and seal her up tight! I used a generous amount of high temp silicone around the back disk... I would recommend it!

 

replace the 0-ring at the disc it's easily do-able the only time i lock the flywheel is to torque the crank nut i lock up the flywheel with an allen wrench between the teeth bellhousing

 

*UPDATE*

Once you detension (meaning keep enough tension that the belt doesn't skip teeth) there really is no need to do TDC or remove the pully. I'm sure the lower shaft is the opposite.

And I dodged a snapped bolt today! After the PBing, wake up, and setting the vise grips on mame, I unscrewed the silly thing with my fingers.

Not to hard to see where this was leaking at.