T04E install questions... what next...
#1
Defending the Border
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T04E install questions... what next...
Finally got to pull the 27/6 and test install the Garrett to check the clocking and any other fit problems. Boy am I glad I did.
You can see in the pic that the compressor housing has been clearanced to fit under the intake/TB and in it's current clocking, the intake sits on a compressor bolt housing lump which makes the hard pipe geometry kinda cheesy.
So what is the best way to configure a 3" compressor inlet??? Smaller alt belt?
You can see in the pic that the compressor housing has been clearanced to fit under the intake/TB and in it's current clocking, the intake sits on a compressor bolt housing lump which makes the hard pipe geometry kinda cheesy.
So what is the best way to configure a 3" compressor inlet??? Smaller alt belt?
Last edited by ibkevin; 08-01-2013 at 01:07 PM.
#4
Defending the Border
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Thanks guys!
Hump hose isn't pretty but I just got my AC running because I got tired of "swamp ***"
Hump hose isn't pretty but I just got my AC running because I got tired of "swamp ***"
Last edited by ibkevin; 08-01-2013 at 01:07 PM.
#5
dave's right - there's a great write up in the latest issue of Excellence about deleting the AC hardware and moving the alternator down to the compressor location. Porsche sells a bracket that adapts the alternator bracket to the compressor mount points.
Cool project!
Cool project!
#6
Deleting the a/c is hardly an "upgrade" - it's a cop-out by those too lazy to find a real solution to the problem and retain the full functionality of the car while enhancing it.
For one I like being able to make 300+ RWHP whenever I want and still enjoy nice cold air on a trip to Vegas or Tahoe while it's 100+ degrees outside.
Best of luck with the project.
For one I like being able to make 300+ RWHP whenever I want and still enjoy nice cold air on a trip to Vegas or Tahoe while it's 100+ degrees outside.
Best of luck with the project.
#7
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Originally Posted by PuttingThePoorBackInPorsche
Deleting the a/c is hardly an "upgrade" - it's a cop-out by those too lazy to find a real solution to the problem and retain the full functionality of the car while enhancing it.
For one I like being able to make 300+ RWHP whenever I want and still enjoy nice cold air on a trip to Vegas or Tahoe while it's 100+ degrees outside.
Best of luck with the project.
For one I like being able to make 300+ RWHP whenever I want and still enjoy nice cold air on a trip to Vegas or Tahoe while it's 100+ degrees outside.
Best of luck with the project.
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#8
Just went through this on my car, fitting a Vitesse Stage II. If you notch the top of the alternator duct and reroute the altenator to starter cable so that it exits more to the engine side, the air inlet should fit fine (close but it works). You can't run a smaller alt belt if the alt is in the stock location, as its fixed by two mounting points, so its not going anywhere.
Regards,
Regards,
#9
Defending the Border
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Poorback, tell us how you really feel...
It's a great solution for a track car, and eventhough it's not my daily driver (qualifies as toy ), I like to arrive at dinner with my pitt's dry. It could be just me.. but when I put $$2.8zillion into a car, I like to be comfortable.
If this was a track car, I would have dumped a bunch of stuff loooong ago. Hell, she should have been a track car...
It's a great solution for a track car, and eventhough it's not my daily driver (qualifies as toy ), I like to arrive at dinner with my pitt's dry. It could be just me.. but when I put $$2.8zillion into a car, I like to be comfortable.
If this was a track car, I would have dumped a bunch of stuff loooong ago. Hell, she should have been a track car...
#10
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Originally Posted by sh944
Just went through this on my car, fitting a Vitesse Stage II. If you notch the top of the alternator duct and reroute the altenator to starter cable so that it exits more to the engine side, the air inlet should fit fine (close but it works). You can't run a smaller alt belt if the alt is in the stock location, as its fixed by two mounting points, so its not going anywhere.
Regards,
Regards,
#11
Defending the Border
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Thanks Tom.
I fixed the clocking problem by installing the inner bolt holding the throttle spring bracket, and removing the outter. For the 27/6 I had set it up the opposite way. Put that in your bag o' tricks everyone.
Right now I'm looking at how to make up the coolant discharge connection. If you recall, I destroyed a K26 body cutting close nipples, so now I have a small selection of hardware, cut with a metric die, to work with.
Next is the oil inlet...
The stock line is about 3/8-1/2" outboard the target...
I fixed the clocking problem by installing the inner bolt holding the throttle spring bracket, and removing the outter. For the 27/6 I had set it up the opposite way. Put that in your bag o' tricks everyone.
Right now I'm looking at how to make up the coolant discharge connection. If you recall, I destroyed a K26 body cutting close nipples, so now I have a small selection of hardware, cut with a metric die, to work with.
Next is the oil inlet...
The stock line is about 3/8-1/2" outboard the target...
Last edited by ibkevin; 08-01-2013 at 01:07 PM.
#12
Jeeeze - a lazy copout? How many rennlisters with 951's have functional AC? Mine quit a year ago with very few options to rectify - drop a K on AC repair & new freon or similar $'s on the R134 retro kit. This car is for weekends and DE's so AC is not a priority. The delete kit solves several problems and cuts 30lbs.
#14
Burning Brakes
Gzz, lots of haters of the no A/C crowd. The A/C delete is by no-means a copout. My A/C was fully fuctional (and still is) and R-134a retrofittted. Since I have a 4' inlet there was simply no way to keep the alternator in the upper postion and have room for the intake pipe. I never run the A/C in any of my cars (The habit formed as a way to save gas and I eventually just got used to it) and besides why do you think Porsche gave us our nice removable top. But anyways glad you solved your predictment.
Best shot I have right now of the big mouth attached below.
Best shot I have right now of the big mouth attached below.
Last edited by Dave951; 05-25-2008 at 10:00 AM.
#15
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Right, that's the time-honored way -- take a dremel to the alt shroud -- remove the little housing where the battery wires enter the shroud and fill in the void with metal from a soda can and a pop riviter. Then drill a hose on the side and route the cable though the new hole (with grommet of course). That should free up enough roon to use a straight coupler.