Questions about Vitesse turbo install
07-22-2006, 11:40 PM
#1
Questions about Vitesse turbo install
Karl and I are installing a Vitesse Stage II as a part of some maintenance/upgrades that I am doing prior to making the trek to 944Fest. I've talked with John and all is going reasonably well, but thought I'd solicite advice from the 'list on two issues.
Number1: How the HELL do you get that bolt that attaches the down tube to block?? In the past, I have put an exhaust stud in that hole, put the turbo in place and put a nut on it after I got it lined up, and that worked fine on a stock 944 K26/x turbo, but we finally gave up using that approach as it made it impossible to get things lined up with the new turbo. Dimensionally, the back of the turbo to the down tube appears to be the same, but geez... talk about trying our patience. I'm not one to take shortcuts, but there is a decent chance this bolt might not make it back in as a part of the install. Comments/advice?
Number 2: John provided an adapter for the coolant line coming off the turbo, and suggested that some folks had to resort to notching the intake manifold bracket for clearance. He said that it may still take additional modification to the coolant hardline. Well, we're at that point, and have notched the bracket and taken a few runs at fitting the line, but we haven't gotten to the point of "happiness" with the way it fits yet. Has anyone re-engineered this fitting or come up with a way to do this without resorting to brute force, or are we overlooking something? I scanned the plumbing fittings at the local hardware store but doubt I will find a t-fitting that would accommodate the coolant temp sensor (pretty sure thats a metric thread) and a line to feed to the turbo water pump/et al. Any 'list wisdom on this one?
Also, fyi, we had to cut the top of the altenator cooling duct and reroute the alt/starter cable to get clearance for the turbo/j-pipe. No biggie, but something to be aware if you are going to be doing a similar install. I'll make a fiberglass cover for the hole in top some time in the future, but for now, its duct tape time!
Regards,
Number1: How the HELL do you get that bolt that attaches the down tube to block?? In the past, I have put an exhaust stud in that hole, put the turbo in place and put a nut on it after I got it lined up, and that worked fine on a stock 944 K26/x turbo, but we finally gave up using that approach as it made it impossible to get things lined up with the new turbo. Dimensionally, the back of the turbo to the down tube appears to be the same, but geez... talk about trying our patience. I'm not one to take shortcuts, but there is a decent chance this bolt might not make it back in as a part of the install. Comments/advice?
Number 2: John provided an adapter for the coolant line coming off the turbo, and suggested that some folks had to resort to notching the intake manifold bracket for clearance. He said that it may still take additional modification to the coolant hardline. Well, we're at that point, and have notched the bracket and taken a few runs at fitting the line, but we haven't gotten to the point of "happiness" with the way it fits yet. Has anyone re-engineered this fitting or come up with a way to do this without resorting to brute force, or are we overlooking something? I scanned the plumbing fittings at the local hardware store but doubt I will find a t-fitting that would accommodate the coolant temp sensor (pretty sure thats a metric thread) and a line to feed to the turbo water pump/et al. Any 'list wisdom on this one?
Also, fyi, we had to cut the top of the altenator cooling duct and reroute the alt/starter cable to get clearance for the turbo/j-pipe. No biggie, but something to be aware if you are going to be doing a similar install. I'll make a fiberglass cover for the hole in top some time in the future, but for now, its duct tape time!
Regards,
07-22-2006, 11:51 PM
#2
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Rennlist Member
1) downpipe bolt has off for 3+ years... no problems
2) once I had the compressor housing index the way I wanted, the waterpipe cleared fine with the supplied adapters, keep adjusting, with your mouth in the correct position.
2) once I had the compressor housing index the way I wanted, the waterpipe cleared fine with the supplied adapters, keep adjusting, with your mouth in the correct position.
07-23-2006, 12:12 AM
#3
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I feel your pain.
Number 1:
I asked John about this. He said the bolt isn't necessary. I ended up getting it on anyways with the help of a "swivel" socket. Can't think of the appropriate name off hand. A "swivel" adapter + socket is too long, so you have to buy the individual socket IIRC. I think it's 14mm. Craftsman worked for me. Even then it's not easy, but it's possible. If you haven't already, take the brake heat shield off.
Number 2:
I pondered this for a couple days. After many hours in the plumbing aisle, I ended up using John's and "enhancing" the bracket/heat shield setup. My sensor ended up sitting behind the bracket with a heater hose going over the turbo. I think there's a picture of a similar hose setup in the installation document.
Good luck.
Number 1:
I asked John about this. He said the bolt isn't necessary. I ended up getting it on anyways with the help of a "swivel" socket. Can't think of the appropriate name off hand. A "swivel" adapter + socket is too long, so you have to buy the individual socket IIRC. I think it's 14mm. Craftsman worked for me. Even then it's not easy, but it's possible. If you haven't already, take the brake heat shield off.
Number 2:
I pondered this for a couple days. After many hours in the plumbing aisle, I ended up using John's and "enhancing" the bracket/heat shield setup. My sensor ended up sitting behind the bracket with a heater hose going over the turbo. I think there's a picture of a similar hose setup in the installation document.
Good luck.
07-23-2006, 12:36 AM
#4
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David,
If for some reason you bottomed out and your exhaust took a hit, wouldn't the pipe movement in the absence of that support put stress on the rather small turbo mounting bolts? This seems a little far fetched, but that's why I ended up installing it.
If for some reason you bottomed out and your exhaust took a hit, wouldn't the pipe movement in the absence of that support put stress on the rather small turbo mounting bolts? This seems a little far fetched, but that's why I ended up installing it.
07-23-2006, 12:53 AM
#6
With the downpipes three decent sized studs that attach to the exhaust, the four similar sized bolts holding the turbo to the crossover pipe, the two mounting bolts to the turbo from the bottom, the oil feed line holding it on the top AND the coolant line, I am guessing that anything that will jar the turbo loose will do far more damage to something else on the car at the same time. I just like putting things back where the factory had them, if at all possible. We had all the tools necessary to get the thing in, we just ran out of patience. We'll try it again later, but I am not going to stress out about it if it doesn't make it back in.
We'll keep working on the coolant line as well. Thanks for the comments, guys! I am looking forward to firing the car up!
Regards,
We'll keep working on the coolant line as well. Thanks for the comments, guys! I am looking forward to firing the car up!
Regards,
