[RANT] this car is going to be the death of me...
07-22-2006, 06:28 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
[RANT] this car is going to be the death of me...
If it isn't one thing it's another. This car is going to run me into the ground. For what I have spent on it so far, I could have bought a second VW golf to tool around in, and at least I wouldn't have to worry about being stranded all the time.
The recent list of malfunctions goes as follows:
Steering started to become loose, investigated and found loose steering rack bolts. Tightened them and the problem was resolved. Total cost: $0
Knock started in the front end. Only knocks once when I hit some bumps, or brake and turn. Have checked everything I can think of, still haven't found the problem. Total cost: $???
Idle is rough, very very rough. Entire car vibrates when idling. Runs perfectly when off-idle, even at just 1000RPM. Replaced all vacuum lines, ISV hoses, did venturi delete, removed intake manifold 4-5 times while doing this. Total cost: $225
A/C doesn't work. Bought a leak detector, put some R134a in. Found my high side fitting leaks, my compressor-condensor hose leaks at the compressor, my low side fitting leaks. I changed the valve core in the high side fitting, and in the low side fitting. Changed the O-rings at the compressor on the low side hose, and the compressor-condensor hose. Re-charged system with Red Tek, still leaked. Still leaking from compressor-condensor hose fitting at compressor. Changed O-rings again, being super-careful this time. $30 in refrigerant later, still leaks again. At present, A/C still doesn't work. It is leaking so fast that you can hear it. Total cost: $450 and counting
Oil pan gasket leaks. When I first built the engine it was dry as a bone for 6000 miles. I had to flip one set of rings over, and apparently I didn't torque it down properly, because it leaks like crazy now. 1 drop/second while idling. Already spent $300 flipping the rings over, and now I have to spend another $75 and a weekend changing the oil pan gasket. Total cost: $375 and counting
Power steering didn't work. Turns out there was no power steering belt because the pump was so loose in it's mount it tossed the belt. Found the pump was leaking like crazy when connected, so I rebuilt it, and replaced the belt. However there were no spacers for the mounting bolts, so I built my own out of washers. I built the front one slightly too small, and it ate my brand new power steering belt before tossing it on the ground all shredded. Re-aligned pump and installed new belt today. Total cost: $70
This is just the parts cost, and just since I brought it out of storage for this year. Now, after fixing the power steering today, I fired it up and thought to myself: "Gee, it sure smells like gas.....", then looked to find my F()#$*&#*$#(&$(#^$(*#@ fuel rail is cracked!!!!!!
So, I have a car that idles rough, without working A/C, an unidentifiable knock in the front end, that pisses oil everywhere that now leaks fuel.
I am at wit's end with this car. I am seriously going to go to a mercedes dealership tomorrow and ask what they will give me for it if I trade it in for a smart car. I can't take any more of this crap.
In the list above I didn't mention the $6000US I spent on the car, the $2000US for the trip to go get it, the $5500CDN I spent rebuilding the motor, or any of the repairs for last year....
Somebody talk me down from this ledge, because I am ready to start it up, let it leak gas all over the headers, and watch it burn......
The recent list of malfunctions goes as follows:
Steering started to become loose, investigated and found loose steering rack bolts. Tightened them and the problem was resolved. Total cost: $0
Knock started in the front end. Only knocks once when I hit some bumps, or brake and turn. Have checked everything I can think of, still haven't found the problem. Total cost: $???
Idle is rough, very very rough. Entire car vibrates when idling. Runs perfectly when off-idle, even at just 1000RPM. Replaced all vacuum lines, ISV hoses, did venturi delete, removed intake manifold 4-5 times while doing this. Total cost: $225
A/C doesn't work. Bought a leak detector, put some R134a in. Found my high side fitting leaks, my compressor-condensor hose leaks at the compressor, my low side fitting leaks. I changed the valve core in the high side fitting, and in the low side fitting. Changed the O-rings at the compressor on the low side hose, and the compressor-condensor hose. Re-charged system with Red Tek, still leaked. Still leaking from compressor-condensor hose fitting at compressor. Changed O-rings again, being super-careful this time. $30 in refrigerant later, still leaks again. At present, A/C still doesn't work. It is leaking so fast that you can hear it. Total cost: $450 and counting
Oil pan gasket leaks. When I first built the engine it was dry as a bone for 6000 miles. I had to flip one set of rings over, and apparently I didn't torque it down properly, because it leaks like crazy now. 1 drop/second while idling. Already spent $300 flipping the rings over, and now I have to spend another $75 and a weekend changing the oil pan gasket. Total cost: $375 and counting
Power steering didn't work. Turns out there was no power steering belt because the pump was so loose in it's mount it tossed the belt. Found the pump was leaking like crazy when connected, so I rebuilt it, and replaced the belt. However there were no spacers for the mounting bolts, so I built my own out of washers. I built the front one slightly too small, and it ate my brand new power steering belt before tossing it on the ground all shredded. Re-aligned pump and installed new belt today. Total cost: $70
This is just the parts cost, and just since I brought it out of storage for this year. Now, after fixing the power steering today, I fired it up and thought to myself: "Gee, it sure smells like gas.....", then looked to find my F()#$*&#*$#(&$(#^$(*#@ fuel rail is cracked!!!!!!
So, I have a car that idles rough, without working A/C, an unidentifiable knock in the front end, that pisses oil everywhere that now leaks fuel.
I am at wit's end with this car. I am seriously going to go to a mercedes dealership tomorrow and ask what they will give me for it if I trade it in for a smart car. I can't take any more of this crap.
In the list above I didn't mention the $6000US I spent on the car, the $2000US for the trip to go get it, the $5500CDN I spent rebuilding the motor, or any of the repairs for last year....
Somebody talk me down from this ledge, because I am ready to start it up, let it leak gas all over the headers, and watch it burn......
07-22-2006, 07:18 PM
#5
Drifting
The hose between my compressor and condensor had a rip in it, but the rip was on the back side and out of sight. Feel around the actual hose to see if your's is ripped.
07-22-2006, 09:22 PM
#6
Remember riding in my car? That is what you are aiming for isn't it? Now can you see a Smart car putting that kind of smile on your face? All the stuff you mention is little things that may be irritating but not catastrophic. My idle right now is funky too - it surges at lights. So I bought a new TPS and a new ISV. I figure they haven't been replaced ever and since the car is over 15 years old it's probably time. If that doesn't fix the problem I will dig a little deeper. Keep at it. I'm sure you will eventually get everything sorted out.
07-22-2006, 11:31 PM
#7
Pro
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like leaking problems (except A/C) are due to poor workmanship on your part. Putting things in upside down and not getting correct spacers are your fault not the cars. I know that isn't what you want to hear when you are looking at having to tear everything out and start over but it's the facts.
Trending Topics
07-23-2006, 12:28 AM
#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
For the A/C problem, I had the hose out of the car and inspected it. No rips, and it's not wet near the rubber ends. It seems like the metal part itself is leaking.
I also forgot about the fact that I only made it to 2 track events this year out of 12 or 13. One went just terribly, I ran among the worst times of the night due to some shifting troubles and a boost leak, and the other one I got a flat tire just as my runs were starting to get solid.
That was another $200 for the car to eat.
Oh yeah, and the oil pressure light flickers at idle when in heavy traffic on 30*+ days with the occasionally working A/C on, so I guess I need to change the oil to 20W50 instead of 10W40.
Eric, I recall your car. Mine is nothing like that. Yours is only scary to drive down the road because it's so fast. Mine is scary because it might fall apart. If mine were as well sorted as yours I would be one happy camper.
As for the comment on the ball joints, I also checked those out. I rebuilt the control arms last year because one ball joint had some play in it. Both pockets were okay, and after rebuilding it was solid as a rock. I also forgot to mention that occasionally when you hit the brakes it will pull so hard it will almost rip the wheel from your hands. The problem is that the pull is random in direction and in occurance. But it is more common if I am coming to a stop on a bumpy road (i.e. a road where a lot of trucks have been).
As for the oil pan gasket, I did all I could with what I had. There was no other way to do things, I was stuck with a car that I had to make run in a terrible situation. It's not like I decided to improperly install it on purpose
About the spacers, using the washers is a perfectly acceptable alternative, but it's almost impossible to eyeball whether it is out of alignment by 1-2mm without starting the car to verify.
I've spent over $17k on this car, probably closer to $20k. And even if I get the mechanicals perfect, it still has a big dent in the side, a cracked dash, oil stained carpet, torn seats, and some electrical gremlins inside. A smart car might not put such a smile on my face when I drive it, but it will certainly put a big smile on my face when I look at what I pay for it each month.
I think I have come down off the ledge somewhat. This car is giving me trouble at a very bad time. I am presently trying to leave town, and buy a house in BC. I can't afford to sink a ton of money into this car right now. I am going to price out what it will take to fix it, and reserve the august long weekend for repairing it. Who knows, I might have some kind of GTG just to get it back on the road, but the catch is I can't spend even a penny over $1000 to get it into perfect shape.
It needs wheel bearings on all 4 corners, power steering hoses, power steering spacers, bushings for the steering rack, a low-temp thermostat, a low-temp fan switch, a compressor-condensor hose, possibly a new idle stabilizer or new fuel injectors, oil pan gasket, throwout bearing, and possibly some other items.
I know wheel bearings alone will be ~$250, the TO bearing is ~$200, but the rest of it is pretty much minor stuff. My $1k parts goal could happen, and if it does, I just might start to like this car again.
I plan to pull the motor over the august long weekend, pressure wash the whole thing, replace the oil pan gasket, and fix everything while it is out of the car, including the dreaded wheel bearings. Hopefully I will also install my oil drain plug temperature sensor and a VDO temperature gauge. That will be a busy 3 days, but it will be the 7th engine I have had out of a 944, so I like to think that I'm getting good at it now.
I also forgot about the fact that I only made it to 2 track events this year out of 12 or 13. One went just terribly, I ran among the worst times of the night due to some shifting troubles and a boost leak, and the other one I got a flat tire just as my runs were starting to get solid.
That was another $200 for the car to eat.Oh yeah, and the oil pressure light flickers at idle when in heavy traffic on 30*+ days with the occasionally working A/C on, so I guess I need to change the oil to 20W50 instead of 10W40.
Eric, I recall your car. Mine is nothing like that. Yours is only scary to drive down the road because it's so fast. Mine is scary because it might fall apart. If mine were as well sorted as yours I would be one happy camper.
As for the comment on the ball joints, I also checked those out. I rebuilt the control arms last year because one ball joint had some play in it. Both pockets were okay, and after rebuilding it was solid as a rock. I also forgot to mention that occasionally when you hit the brakes it will pull so hard it will almost rip the wheel from your hands. The problem is that the pull is random in direction and in occurance. But it is more common if I am coming to a stop on a bumpy road (i.e. a road where a lot of trucks have been).
As for the oil pan gasket, I did all I could with what I had. There was no other way to do things, I was stuck with a car that I had to make run in a terrible situation. It's not like I decided to improperly install it on purpose
About the spacers, using the washers is a perfectly acceptable alternative, but it's almost impossible to eyeball whether it is out of alignment by 1-2mm without starting the car to verify.
I've spent over $17k on this car, probably closer to $20k. And even if I get the mechanicals perfect, it still has a big dent in the side, a cracked dash, oil stained carpet, torn seats, and some electrical gremlins inside. A smart car might not put such a smile on my face when I drive it, but it will certainly put a big smile on my face when I look at what I pay for it each month.
I think I have come down off the ledge somewhat. This car is giving me trouble at a very bad time. I am presently trying to leave town, and buy a house in BC. I can't afford to sink a ton of money into this car right now. I am going to price out what it will take to fix it, and reserve the august long weekend for repairing it. Who knows, I might have some kind of GTG just to get it back on the road, but the catch is I can't spend even a penny over $1000 to get it into perfect shape.
It needs wheel bearings on all 4 corners, power steering hoses, power steering spacers, bushings for the steering rack, a low-temp thermostat, a low-temp fan switch, a compressor-condensor hose, possibly a new idle stabilizer or new fuel injectors, oil pan gasket, throwout bearing, and possibly some other items.
I know wheel bearings alone will be ~$250, the TO bearing is ~$200, but the rest of it is pretty much minor stuff. My $1k parts goal could happen, and if it does, I just might start to like this car again.
I plan to pull the motor over the august long weekend, pressure wash the whole thing, replace the oil pan gasket, and fix everything while it is out of the car, including the dreaded wheel bearings. Hopefully I will also install my oil drain plug temperature sensor and a VDO temperature gauge. That will be a busy 3 days, but it will be the 7th engine I have had out of a 944, so I like to think that I'm getting good at it now.
07-23-2006, 12:35 AM
#9
If you need a set of stock injectors let me know. Mine are sitting in a box somewhere. You can do a lot more than me in 3 days. I still have a lindsey fuel rail, bosch fuel pump, SMT-6, full suspension (racers edge bushings, 968 sway bars, new m030 struts w/hyper coil springs, stiffer torsion bars, etc.) and new brakes/rotors all the way around to do. Unless I have a shop to the work I have a feeling that they will all be a winter project. Good luck!
P.S. I got my *** handed to me from 20 mph to 100 mph by an old man in an RS6 so my car still needs to be faster.
P.S. I got my *** handed to me from 20 mph to 100 mph by an old man in an RS6 so my car still needs to be faster.
07-23-2006, 01:19 AM
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
I checked the struts, they seemed like the logical culprit. That's where I started the search.
I checked the struts, wheel bearings, tie rod ends (inner and outer), ball joints, control arm bushings, crossmember bolts. I think I found the culprit though. My oil pan gasket leaks badly, right down onto the D/S steering rack bushing, which I can see has started to come apart, and pieces of it are sticking out of the sides of the bracket. I'd bet that would cause this little bit of play that is driving me crazy.
I have made up a basket on Paragon of all the little pieces I need. I know I'm forgetting something, but without an oil pickup tube seal, crush washers, hose clamps, and rod bearings (a big temptation, especially with ~30 track events on this engine), it's over $750US. By the time shipping and the currency exchange is figured in, I should be at ~$1000. This will be close.
I checked the struts, wheel bearings, tie rod ends (inner and outer), ball joints, control arm bushings, crossmember bolts. I think I found the culprit though. My oil pan gasket leaks badly, right down onto the D/S steering rack bushing, which I can see has started to come apart, and pieces of it are sticking out of the sides of the bracket. I'd bet that would cause this little bit of play that is driving me crazy.
I have made up a basket on Paragon of all the little pieces I need. I know I'm forgetting something, but without an oil pickup tube seal, crush washers, hose clamps, and rod bearings (a big temptation, especially with ~30 track events on this engine), it's over $750US. By the time shipping and the currency exchange is figured in, I should be at ~$1000. This will be close.
07-23-2006, 12:44 PM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dont do the pan gasket unless you get MySwiss retainers!! Trust me they are worth way more than they cost.
Sucks about the fuel rail. Theyre pretty cheap used tho.
Sucks about the fuel rail. Theyre pretty cheap used tho.