[RANT] this car is going to be the death of me...
07-23-2006, 12:49 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Mike, can you be certain that it is in operating condition?
I need to check mine out before I buy another, but I just don't know the best way to do it.
Can I just remove it, cycle the ignition switch and watch for movement inside?
Okay, so I cleared it with my soon-to-be-wife, and it looks like I can save my 951.
Right now we are putting away for a house in BC, where we are moving on august 27th/28th, we are also getting married this thursday (the 27th of july), hence why I am pulling my hair out over this car, since it has left me short of money, and with no easy way to get to work. I'll be taking the bus for a while I guess.
Anyhoo, long story short, I am hoping that a couple rennlisters might be willing to hop in and help out on this one. I am going to try to organize a small GTG in a movement to save my car. I'll be posting in the regional forum about this shortly.
Thanks for the encouragement, this car can be really frustrating sometimes.
I am going to try a couple things with the fuel rail today, but does anybody around here have a spare one that they will part with for a reasonable price? I would like to have one lined up incase mine really is cracked.
I need to check mine out before I buy another, but I just don't know the best way to do it.
Can I just remove it, cycle the ignition switch and watch for movement inside?
Okay, so I cleared it with my soon-to-be-wife, and it looks like I can save my 951.
Right now we are putting away for a house in BC, where we are moving on august 27th/28th, we are also getting married this thursday (the 27th of july), hence why I am pulling my hair out over this car, since it has left me short of money, and with no easy way to get to work. I'll be taking the bus for a while I guess.
Anyhoo, long story short, I am hoping that a couple rennlisters might be willing to hop in and help out on this one. I am going to try to organize a small GTG in a movement to save my car. I'll be posting in the regional forum about this shortly.
Thanks for the encouragement, this car can be really frustrating sometimes.
I am going to try a couple things with the fuel rail today, but does anybody around here have a spare one that they will part with for a reasonable price? I would like to have one lined up incase mine really is cracked.
07-23-2006, 12:51 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by Zero10
Mike, can you be certain that it is in operating condition?
I need to check mine out before I buy another, but I just don't know the best way to do it.
Can I just remove it, cycle the ignition switch and watch for movement inside?
Okay, so I cleared it with my soon-to-be-wife, and it looks like I can save my 951.
Right now we are putting away for a house in BC, where we are moving on august 27th/28th, we are also getting married this thursday (the 27th of july), hence why I am pulling my hair out over this car, since it has left me short of money, and with no easy way to get to work. I'll be taking the bus for a while I guess.
Anyhoo, long story short, I am hoping that a couple rennlisters might be willing to hop in and help out on this one. I am going to try to organize a small GTG in a movement to save my car. I'll be posting in the regional forum about this shortly.
Thanks for the encouragement, this car can be really frustrating sometimes.
I am going to try a couple things with the fuel rail today, but does anybody around here have a spare one that they will part with for a reasonable price? I would like to have one lined up incase mine really is cracked.
I need to check mine out before I buy another, but I just don't know the best way to do it.
Can I just remove it, cycle the ignition switch and watch for movement inside?
Okay, so I cleared it with my soon-to-be-wife, and it looks like I can save my 951.
Right now we are putting away for a house in BC, where we are moving on august 27th/28th, we are also getting married this thursday (the 27th of july), hence why I am pulling my hair out over this car, since it has left me short of money, and with no easy way to get to work. I'll be taking the bus for a while I guess.
Anyhoo, long story short, I am hoping that a couple rennlisters might be willing to hop in and help out on this one. I am going to try to organize a small GTG in a movement to save my car. I'll be posting in the regional forum about this shortly.
Thanks for the encouragement, this car can be really frustrating sometimes.
I am going to try a couple things with the fuel rail today, but does anybody around here have a spare one that they will part with for a reasonable price? I would like to have one lined up incase mine really is cracked.
07-23-2006, 01:16 PM
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
I will be moving to the Vernon/Kelowna area. My fiancee has been accepted to UBC okanagan, so we are hoping to live near the campus.
Unfortunately I expect we will end up in a condo in downtown Kelowna, meaning I will have no space to work on my car.
Just curious, but where in BC are you Brian?
I am hoping to take part in some of the west coast GTG's once I am out there.
Unfortunately I expect we will end up in a condo in downtown Kelowna, meaning I will have no space to work on my car.
Just curious, but where in BC are you Brian?
I am hoping to take part in some of the west coast GTG's once I am out there.
07-23-2006, 01:45 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by Zero10
I will be moving to the Vernon/Kelowna area. My fiancee has been accepted to UBC okanagan, so we are hoping to live near the campus.
Unfortunately I expect we will end up in a condo in downtown Kelowna, meaning I will have no space to work on my car.
Just curious, but where in BC are you Brian?
I am hoping to take part in some of the west coast GTG's once I am out there.
Unfortunately I expect we will end up in a condo in downtown Kelowna, meaning I will have no space to work on my car.
Just curious, but where in BC are you Brian?
I am hoping to take part in some of the west coast GTG's once I am out there.
Youll like the lakes there in the summer, glacier fed and nice and clear.
07-23-2006, 02:43 PM
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
5 hours isn't too bad. If there are any GTG's out that way I would make the trip any time.
I'd like to meet the west coast area rennlisters sometime. I've met a lot of the Calgary area listers, and it's always nice to see more 944's.
As for the ball joints, I jacked it up again today, and I am unable to get any play out of the front end at all. Whatever it is takes a LOT of force to get it to move. More than I can exert with my arms on the wheel. Ball joints are definately good. It only knocks when going over hard bumps, or when braking then turning. What I mean by that is when I brake, then turn (like going into an alley or a driveway) it will knock once just as the car settles into the turn, and again when I hit the dipped sidewalk or parking lot enterance. Perhaps it's a result of the steering rack bushing falling apart?....
I checked my spare steering rack, and the bushings on it are just fine, but for $20/set I might as well order new ones.
I ordered wheel bearings since it sounds like my rears are going. The problem is that the rears are so loud that I can't tell if the fronts are going as well, but for $20/side, I might as well do them while I have the chance. The rears get so loud and harsh that the whole car vibrates and it's intolerably loud when I drive in the rain. I actually have to pull over when it starts to rain because I'm afraid that something will break.
I'd like to meet the west coast area rennlisters sometime. I've met a lot of the Calgary area listers, and it's always nice to see more 944's.
As for the ball joints, I jacked it up again today, and I am unable to get any play out of the front end at all. Whatever it is takes a LOT of force to get it to move. More than I can exert with my arms on the wheel. Ball joints are definately good. It only knocks when going over hard bumps, or when braking then turning. What I mean by that is when I brake, then turn (like going into an alley or a driveway) it will knock once just as the car settles into the turn, and again when I hit the dipped sidewalk or parking lot enterance. Perhaps it's a result of the steering rack bushing falling apart?....
I checked my spare steering rack, and the bushings on it are just fine, but for $20/set I might as well order new ones.
I ordered wheel bearings since it sounds like my rears are going. The problem is that the rears are so loud that I can't tell if the fronts are going as well, but for $20/side, I might as well do them while I have the chance. The rears get so loud and harsh that the whole car vibrates and it's intolerably loud when I drive in the rain. I actually have to pull over when it starts to rain because I'm afraid that something will break.
07-23-2006, 02:47 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Zero10
If it isn't one thing it's another. This car is going to run me into the ground. For what I have spent on it so far, I could have bought a second VW golf to tool around in, and at least I wouldn't have to worry about being stranded all the time.
The recent list of malfunctions goes as follows:
Steering started to become loose, investigated and found loose steering rack bolts. Tightened them and the problem was resolved. Total cost: $0
Knock started in the front end. Only knocks once when I hit some bumps, or brake and turn. Have checked everything I can think of, still haven't found the problem. Total cost: $???
Idle is rough, very very rough. Entire car vibrates when idling. Runs perfectly when off-idle, even at just 1000RPM. Replaced all vacuum lines, ISV hoses, did venturi delete, removed intake manifold 4-5 times while doing this. Total cost: $225
A/C doesn't work. Bought a leak detector, put some R134a in. Found my high side fitting leaks, my compressor-condensor hose leaks at the compressor, my low side fitting leaks. I changed the valve core in the high side fitting, and in the low side fitting. Changed the O-rings at the compressor on the low side hose, and the compressor-condensor hose. Re-charged system with Red Tek, still leaked. Still leaking from compressor-condensor hose fitting at compressor. Changed O-rings again, being super-careful this time. $30 in refrigerant later, still leaks again. At present, A/C still doesn't work. It is leaking so fast that you can hear it. Total cost: $450 and counting
Oil pan gasket leaks. When I first built the engine it was dry as a bone for 6000 miles. I had to flip one set of rings over, and apparently I didn't torque it down properly, because it leaks like crazy now. 1 drop/second while idling. Already spent $300 flipping the rings over, and now I have to spend another $75 and a weekend changing the oil pan gasket. Total cost: $375 and counting
Power steering didn't work. Turns out there was no power steering belt because the pump was so loose in it's mount it tossed the belt. Found the pump was leaking like crazy when connected, so I rebuilt it, and replaced the belt. However there were no spacers for the mounting bolts, so I built my own out of washers. I built the front one slightly too small, and it ate my brand new power steering belt before tossing it on the ground all shredded. Re-aligned pump and installed new belt today. Total cost: $70
This is just the parts cost, and just since I brought it out of storage for this year. Now, after fixing the power steering today, I fired it up and thought to myself: "Gee, it sure smells like gas.....", then looked to find my F()#$*&#*$#(&$(#^$(*#@ fuel rail is cracked!!!!!!
So, I have a car that idles rough, without working A/C, an unidentifiable knock in the front end, that pisses oil everywhere that now leaks fuel.
I am at wit's end with this car. I am seriously going to go to a mercedes dealership tomorrow and ask what they will give me for it if I trade it in for a smart car. I can't take any more of this crap.
In the list above I didn't mention the $6000US I spent on the car, the $2000US for the trip to go get it, the $5500CDN I spent rebuilding the motor, or any of the repairs for last year....
Somebody talk me down from this ledge, because I am ready to start it up, let it leak gas all over the headers, and watch it burn......
The recent list of malfunctions goes as follows:
Steering started to become loose, investigated and found loose steering rack bolts. Tightened them and the problem was resolved. Total cost: $0
Knock started in the front end. Only knocks once when I hit some bumps, or brake and turn. Have checked everything I can think of, still haven't found the problem. Total cost: $???
Idle is rough, very very rough. Entire car vibrates when idling. Runs perfectly when off-idle, even at just 1000RPM. Replaced all vacuum lines, ISV hoses, did venturi delete, removed intake manifold 4-5 times while doing this. Total cost: $225
A/C doesn't work. Bought a leak detector, put some R134a in. Found my high side fitting leaks, my compressor-condensor hose leaks at the compressor, my low side fitting leaks. I changed the valve core in the high side fitting, and in the low side fitting. Changed the O-rings at the compressor on the low side hose, and the compressor-condensor hose. Re-charged system with Red Tek, still leaked. Still leaking from compressor-condensor hose fitting at compressor. Changed O-rings again, being super-careful this time. $30 in refrigerant later, still leaks again. At present, A/C still doesn't work. It is leaking so fast that you can hear it. Total cost: $450 and counting
Oil pan gasket leaks. When I first built the engine it was dry as a bone for 6000 miles. I had to flip one set of rings over, and apparently I didn't torque it down properly, because it leaks like crazy now. 1 drop/second while idling. Already spent $300 flipping the rings over, and now I have to spend another $75 and a weekend changing the oil pan gasket. Total cost: $375 and counting
Power steering didn't work. Turns out there was no power steering belt because the pump was so loose in it's mount it tossed the belt. Found the pump was leaking like crazy when connected, so I rebuilt it, and replaced the belt. However there were no spacers for the mounting bolts, so I built my own out of washers. I built the front one slightly too small, and it ate my brand new power steering belt before tossing it on the ground all shredded. Re-aligned pump and installed new belt today. Total cost: $70
This is just the parts cost, and just since I brought it out of storage for this year. Now, after fixing the power steering today, I fired it up and thought to myself: "Gee, it sure smells like gas.....", then looked to find my F()#$*&#*$#(&$(#^$(*#@ fuel rail is cracked!!!!!!
So, I have a car that idles rough, without working A/C, an unidentifiable knock in the front end, that pisses oil everywhere that now leaks fuel.
I am at wit's end with this car. I am seriously going to go to a mercedes dealership tomorrow and ask what they will give me for it if I trade it in for a smart car. I can't take any more of this crap.
In the list above I didn't mention the $6000US I spent on the car, the $2000US for the trip to go get it, the $5500CDN I spent rebuilding the motor, or any of the repairs for last year....
Somebody talk me down from this ledge, because I am ready to start it up, let it leak gas all over the headers, and watch it burn......
You can buy a good rebuild ball joint kit for about $150 both side at www.rennbay.com
Gas leak?
Well, needing new gas lines is not abnormal. I suggest the ones from www.Lindseyracing.com.
As far as money wasted on a car. OMG welcome to owning a 19 year old German preformance car! If it had a ***, tity's, and could suck a golf ball though 10 feet of Garden hose it would mean more to you so just use your imagination and fix it!
Last edited by SchnellerUmsetzer; 07-23-2006 at 03:14 PM.
07-23-2006, 04:39 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Zero10
Knock started in the front end. Only knocks once when I hit some bumps, or brake and turn. Have checked everything I can think of, still haven't found the problem.
Originally Posted by Zero10
Idle is rough, very very rough. Entire car vibrates when idling. Runs perfectly when off-idle, even at just 1000RPM.
07-23-2006, 05:19 PM
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
Rob,
Changed the motor mounts last year. It idles so rough that you can watch the door panels vibrate, and you get a permanent back massager unless you hold the gas so it idles at 1000RPM. I am getting ~15" Hg vacuum at idle, and it drops to ~12"Hg when the idle stabilizer does it's thing. I have the idle screw turned all the way in, but I can't find any vacuum leaks anywhere. Perhaps the throttle butterfly is mis-adjusted?... I dunno.
Upper strut mounts..... didn't check those. Given that it's an 87, I think it's cheaper to get camber plates than new strut mounts, no? That is a good guess though, since my first impression is that it was the struts, that would make sense..... somehow I completely forgot to check the upper strut mounts. I'll take a look when I have the engine out.
SchnellerUmsetzer, I checked the A/C system with a sniffer, it's the compressor-condensor hose fitting at the compressor which is leaking. Don't need to pay $75, and I don't need a dye injected, since Red Tek comes with dye already in the oil, and my UV light verifies that it is leaking from where my sniffer says it is.
The gas leak is not fuel lines, I replaced them with the lindsey lines already, it's a cracked rail. Right at the bracket where the FPD mounts. I must have tweaked it when I tightened the little stubby fuel line, or else it just failed because the car hates me. It's not a big leak, about 1 drop per minute, but IMO it's enough to start a fire if not tended to.
The ball joints are fine. 0 play at all in them, they were rebuilt last year with the top-of-the-line rennbay kit. I think I adressed that one already.
When I complain about the money, I'm just saying that no matter how much I spend on it, it's never happy. For that reason alone I'm almost ready to get rid of it. I can understand sinking a few hundred a year on it, but $11k+ for just parts alone in 2 years is absurd. I haven't even modified it at all, it's completely stock.
I've worked on some poorly maintained cars, and I've never seen one need such an array of parts. I've literally replaced almost every single thing under the hood, and lots of parts that aren't under the hood. It has 170k miles on it, but I just can't understand how every single thing has worn out or failed.
I think if we had a contest for whose car is the biggest piece of s#!^ money pit on this board mine would win hands down.
I don't think I've taken it for a single drive yet that I haven't worried about some noise, or some smoke, or something. That means not one worry-free journey in it, despite all of my time, blood and money this car has taken. I thought my last 944 was cursed.... no. This one has the curse.
Funny, I was almost down from the ledge, and now just thinkig of this car has driven me right back up there. If I don't get everything taken care of, and get a couple worry-free years of driving out of it, I just might have to kill it.
Changed the motor mounts last year. It idles so rough that you can watch the door panels vibrate, and you get a permanent back massager unless you hold the gas so it idles at 1000RPM. I am getting ~15" Hg vacuum at idle, and it drops to ~12"Hg when the idle stabilizer does it's thing. I have the idle screw turned all the way in, but I can't find any vacuum leaks anywhere. Perhaps the throttle butterfly is mis-adjusted?... I dunno.
Upper strut mounts..... didn't check those. Given that it's an 87, I think it's cheaper to get camber plates than new strut mounts, no? That is a good guess though, since my first impression is that it was the struts, that would make sense..... somehow I completely forgot to check the upper strut mounts. I'll take a look when I have the engine out.
SchnellerUmsetzer, I checked the A/C system with a sniffer, it's the compressor-condensor hose fitting at the compressor which is leaking. Don't need to pay $75, and I don't need a dye injected, since Red Tek comes with dye already in the oil, and my UV light verifies that it is leaking from where my sniffer says it is.
The gas leak is not fuel lines, I replaced them with the lindsey lines already, it's a cracked rail. Right at the bracket where the FPD mounts. I must have tweaked it when I tightened the little stubby fuel line, or else it just failed because the car hates me. It's not a big leak, about 1 drop per minute, but IMO it's enough to start a fire if not tended to.
The ball joints are fine. 0 play at all in them, they were rebuilt last year with the top-of-the-line rennbay kit. I think I adressed that one already.
When I complain about the money, I'm just saying that no matter how much I spend on it, it's never happy. For that reason alone I'm almost ready to get rid of it. I can understand sinking a few hundred a year on it, but $11k+ for just parts alone in 2 years is absurd. I haven't even modified it at all, it's completely stock.
I've worked on some poorly maintained cars, and I've never seen one need such an array of parts. I've literally replaced almost every single thing under the hood, and lots of parts that aren't under the hood. It has 170k miles on it, but I just can't understand how every single thing has worn out or failed.
I think if we had a contest for whose car is the biggest piece of s#!^ money pit on this board mine would win hands down.
I don't think I've taken it for a single drive yet that I haven't worried about some noise, or some smoke, or something. That means not one worry-free journey in it, despite all of my time, blood and money this car has taken. I thought my last 944 was cursed.... no. This one has the curse.
Funny, I was almost down from the ledge, and now just thinkig of this car has driven me right back up there. If I don't get everything taken care of, and get a couple worry-free years of driving out of it, I just might have to kill it.
07-23-2006, 05:55 PM
#27
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I've been working on my 188,000 mile 89 since I got it almost 2 years ago. Last year about this time I was ready to throw in the towel. Seemed like I couldn't drive the car for 20 minutes without something coming loose or breaking. I have some upgrades planned, but something breaks and needs fixing that eats the money I have saved for the upgrade before I get a chance to make the upgrade.
Somebody please submit me for that Overhauled show. I would love to see what they would do with a Porsche instead of something they can just drop a crate motor in.
Somebody please submit me for that Overhauled show. I would love to see what they would do with a Porsche instead of something they can just drop a crate motor in.
07-23-2006, 05:57 PM
#28
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So let me recap this for you 
–
You bought a $6k 20 year old car with 170k on it and you weren’t expecting to be up to your elbows in grease and bills?
At 170k I would expect that almost every moving part was in need of some attention – especially if you want it to run like a Porsche.
So, after that sucky comment on reality – keep up the good work, after a while you will have fixed all the worn parts and it will seem worth it.
Chris White
PS – Oil pans usually start leaking when the crank case pressure builds up (worn rings).
–You bought a $6k 20 year old car with 170k on it and you weren’t expecting to be up to your elbows in grease and bills?
At 170k I would expect that almost every moving part was in need of some attention – especially if you want it to run like a Porsche.
So, after that sucky comment on reality – keep up the good work, after a while you will have fixed all the worn parts and it will seem worth it.
Chris White
PS – Oil pans usually start leaking when the crank case pressure builds up (worn rings).
07-23-2006, 06:10 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by RKD in OKC
I've been working on my 188,000 mile 89 since I got it almost 2 years ago. Last year about this time I was ready to throw in the towel. Seemed like I couldn't drive the car for 20 minutes without something coming loose or breaking. I have some upgrades planned, but something breaks and needs fixing that eats the money I have saved for the upgrade before I get a chance to make the upgrade.
Somebody please submit me for that Overhauled show. I would love to see what they would do with a Porsche instead of something they can just drop a crate motor in.
Somebody please submit me for that Overhauled show. I would love to see what they would do with a Porsche instead of something they can just drop a crate motor in.
07-23-2006, 07:18 PM
#30
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Supposedly everything under the hood was swapped from a 56k mile 86 951. The transmission is 'low miles' as well. Not certain of the exact mileage, but it shifts perfectly now that I have the right fluid in it. I was expecting a car with a few electrical gremlins and a dent in the side. Instead I got a total basket case. I never expected to spend $11k in just parts for this car.
I mean, I did expect to be in up to my elbows, once. Not 3 times now. I understand that the oil pan gasket is pretty much my fault, but the rest of this crap is just more random failures. I inspected everything, gave it all a once over, and as far as I could tell I was in okay shape. Man, this car is going so badly I am starting to feel like Rock
At this point I suppose the worst thing I could do is to sell it. I might as well get some enjoyment out of all of the money I have put into it.
Somebody please come out on the august long weekend and help me get it fixed
I mean, I did expect to be in up to my elbows, once. Not 3 times now. I understand that the oil pan gasket is pretty much my fault, but the rest of this crap is just more random failures. I inspected everything, gave it all a once over, and as far as I could tell I was in okay shape. Man, this car is going so badly I am starting to feel like Rock
At this point I suppose the worst thing I could do is to sell it. I might as well get some enjoyment out of all of the money I have put into it.
Somebody please come out on the august long weekend and help me get it fixed