UK952

Have one sat on my desk along with a throttle body reseal kit,
Tony

Laust Pedersen

I had a “new” coupler already (thanks for the offer, Chris) so the problem is solved and as you can see, this time with an extra aneurism preventing hose clamp.

Testa, true a little bit of oil in the intake is a good diagnostic tool.

DanG, I didn’t know it was possible to pressurize the intake system to 20 psi with shop air, but it might not have worked in this case, since your coupling seems to substitute the cracked coupling.

Cra$h, my old ISV leaked badly too, successfully sealed it with JB Weld, it then died of “old age”, got a new one which also leaked slightly, but not enough to take any corrective action.

333pg333, I have no idea what you are writing, your avatar is just too distracting.

Eyal, did you use straight or step silicone hoses? If there is a next time I’ll go that route.

Hos, I assume you mean oil filler cap, the yellow one. It does have a sealing O-ring inside and maybe the leak is because of the shape of the mating part (top edge of the AOS cylinder). There may be a molding flash (irregular mold joint) or a sharp edge cutting into the O-ring or maybe the top of the AOS has a crack that opens up when you tighten it … just guesses. However that seal is not very important if you have good leak-down numbers.

Laust

Cra$h

Just a quick word of caution on this ^^^. If you have any oily residue inside the rubber hose/coupler, pressurizing the system can create a dangerous scenario. The tester can slip and launch out at a pretty good clip depending on how much pressure is in it. DO NOT stand in front of wherever it's pointed. YES, it has happened to me.

The solution: use a PVC cap, and cut a shallow ring around the outer circumfrence. This will give the rubber a little valley to "seat" in when you tighten the clamp, and you won't have any problems.


DanG, more pics of the "super high dollar" car coming soon.

hosrom_951

Crash: Actually, i wipe the small amounts of oil residue from the IC and use it to lube that pressure tester, since one time i forced it in and made a small tear mark in the rubber boot. Just secure it very well with the hose clamp and things should be just fine.

ibkevin

These tools have spun off the WSM saying to use a fuel filter housing cut in half, press gage and an isolaton valve make nice additions.

While trying to locate my loss of boost (not related in this case), the AOS seals leaked sooo bad the case wouldn't hold press for mor than a couple of seconds.

toddk911

What are the sizes of the IC cuplers?

Also, the TB coupler?

toddk911

Are there any benifits or ways to find more leaks by pressurising the crankcase?

Cra$h

fwiw, I think the size of PVC cap I used was a 2". It fits perfectly in the hose between the turbo and IC pipe at the turbo end. The only thing that doesn't get pressurized is the turbo. I always thought it was a bad idea to pressurize pre-turbo as it wasn't intended to see positive pressure!

DanG

Crash, if you think about it all of the seals on a turbo are on the "boosted" side of things. So pressurizing pre-turbo should be fine. At least the way I see things.

hosrom_951

Dan: Thing is, the other lines that are not meant to see pressure (they way the factory intended anyways) such as the AOS and fuel purge system could get damaged from high pressure....no?

Cra$h

agreed, but at the time I couldn't find a good coupler and cap for the intake side of the turbo (in place of the J boot), so that's the only part I haven't pressure tested.

and what Hosrom said is what I was thinking about pre-turbo - as in including the J boot and all hoses connected to it.

DanG

Good point about the pre-turbo lines. I was suggesting placing the cap (with its own coupler) directly on the turbo inlet. And plugging any pressure ports on the turbo itself. You should be safe with that method, and able to pressure test the complete system.