Lots of boost and getting nervous
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Per all the messages and the paper work it came with it should be connected right. Pauer had the adapters already installed when I received it and there was only one way to mount the exhaust and dump pipes. From there, I installed the IC line to the side of the WG and the top line vents to the atmosphere.
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
Yes and I assume you mean a modified banjo. No, the banjo has not been modified.
I am going to check out the A/F gauge tomorrow (oops, look at the time! ...today) and remove the LBE to see how that affects the boost. If it is still coming on strong, put the LBE back on and tune it down.
Originally Posted by 9fitty1
Is your cycling valve still hooked up? How about a jetted banjo?
#21
Burning Brakes
My understanding is that the LBE is NOT a boost controller, and you can't use it to set your boost level. It helps the stock WG not leak as much before the WG opens. It should be of no benifit on your Tial WG.
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
You are correct, the LBE is not intended to limit boost, but rather prevents the waste gate from purging too soon. I got a bit ahead of myself with suggesting of putting the LBE back in to "tune it down." I will be leaving it out indefinately.
From my understanding of the LBE, it is a crutch a failing OEM waste gate to avoid pre-mature presure leaks.
From my understanding of the LBE, it is a crutch a failing OEM waste gate to avoid pre-mature presure leaks.
#23
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by chapstic951
Unfortunately, my pockets only go so deep and I have to take baby steps for my "project car"
-Steve
-Steve
#24
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you think you don't have deep pockets now, just wait until the headgasket or the side of the block fails. Then you will really understand being short on cash. Your best bet is to leave the Tial running on the spring only for now, until you can get fuel control and monitoring
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
OK, here is the update. Unfortunately, I don’t know where to begin. First off, I figured out what was wrong with my A/F gauge. When splicing in the gauge, I crossed one of the white 12v wires with the signal wire. That has been corrected and the gauge at least gives a reading now, how ever it is very erratic, and not in the good way. I will get back to this, since the post is regarding the boost…though the gauge reading is scary in itself.
So I removed the LBE and connected the line coming off the IC directly to the side port of the TiAL and now my boost goes off the chart (almost literally). It climbed up to ~30psi before the diverter valve finally pop’ed off. I didn’t even get a chance to take my foot off the gas is rose so quickly. After that event, I was VERY careful about not doing that again. Regardless, the boost continued to pile up so quickly and had no apparent intention on stopping that I was too afraid to continue driving and took it home.
Heading back, I noticed that it was overly sluggish on a few occasions to accelerate, almost to the point of stalling. Again, fearing a spike in boost if the rpm’s did pick-up, I tried to monitor the psi along with my foot on the gas. I am starting to feel that there may be a fuel delivery problem (aside from the boost problem).
So that is where I am with the boost.
The A/F gauge read smack dead center when I first turned the car on, then fanned out between rich and lean upon normal acceleration. On the first push of WOT, it fluttered in the rich, again normal. After that, it rested all the way in the red (lean) with the car in neutral and my foot off the gas. Again, I gave it some gas, and it gave me the desired response, then after putting the car in neutral and no gas, it stayed in the green (rich).
I am at a loss on both accounts….
So I removed the LBE and connected the line coming off the IC directly to the side port of the TiAL and now my boost goes off the chart (almost literally). It climbed up to ~30psi before the diverter valve finally pop’ed off. I didn’t even get a chance to take my foot off the gas is rose so quickly. After that event, I was VERY careful about not doing that again. Regardless, the boost continued to pile up so quickly and had no apparent intention on stopping that I was too afraid to continue driving and took it home.
Heading back, I noticed that it was overly sluggish on a few occasions to accelerate, almost to the point of stalling. Again, fearing a spike in boost if the rpm’s did pick-up, I tried to monitor the psi along with my foot on the gas. I am starting to feel that there may be a fuel delivery problem (aside from the boost problem).
So that is where I am with the boost.
The A/F gauge read smack dead center when I first turned the car on, then fanned out between rich and lean upon normal acceleration. On the first push of WOT, it fluttered in the rich, again normal. After that, it rested all the way in the red (lean) with the car in neutral and my foot off the gas. Again, I gave it some gas, and it gave me the desired response, then after putting the car in neutral and no gas, it stayed in the green (rich).
I am at a loss on both accounts….
#26
I did 28 psi every day bases last year with stock (non wide fire headgasket) but head was installed with 110nm. During the tuning I heard detonation couple of times but nothing was wrong with headgasket or cilinders, so if the engine is tuned in the right way stock engine can hold the boost easily!
Markus
Markus
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Perhaps, but I could have sworn I read every direction to a "t" and even kept my eyes on the BBS' for a second opinion. I will take a picture of the set-up and let you guys double check my work.
Originally Posted by RKD in OKC
Sounds like you are hooking the pressure signal to the wrong port on a dual port waste gate.
#30
Pro
Thread Starter
Would it be possible my boost gauge is bad? It is an aftermarket Autometer. How could I go about testing it?
Or would a failing cycling valve have anything to do with it?
Or would a failing cycling valve have anything to do with it?
Last edited by chapstic951; 07-03-2006 at 12:45 PM.