Swedish Meatball

My A/F ratio is down as low as ~11 on idle and the engine is almost stalling. Is that "normal"? I've installed a MAF with a powerperfect piggyback..

I loaded the powerperfect with a mapping I downloaded from lindsey's site. I chose the one mapped to:

2.5L, KOKELN CLUB TURBO, LR L2 PORTED HEAD
LR S2 MAF., LR S5 INTERCOOLER
LR INTAKE. 55# INJECTORS, LINDSEY 3" EXHAUST
WELTMEISTER CHIPS

I thought that would serve as a good base since it's pretty close to my setup (Although my injectors are 588cc and I use a 3 bar fuelpressure regulator). But shouldn't my idle A/F ratio at least be closer to 14 or something with that map? Or is my setup so different that the A/F ratio drops to 11 just because of that?

I decided that I'd try to raise the idle A/F ratio to my desired 14-something. I setup the adjustvalue for the ***** on the piggyback to "10" on each one of them.. Ok so for idle I figured I should turn the first ****.. But even though I turned it the whole way to the right I couldn't see any difference on the A/F ratio from my wideband... Shouldn't it raise? Or should I set the "adjusts" value on the ***** even higher and try again? I'm not sure how much of a difference the ***** shlud make... Or is the idle A/F handled differently somehow?

I also pushed the throtle down a bit and the A/F was still a lot too low so the engine almost stalled..

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Trucho-951

I'd suggest checking that the DME Fuel temp sensor is operating properly.

951_VAB

Not sure if I can be of much help, but I too use a PowerPerfect. Are you positive you've properly uploaded, and then downloaded the eprom image to and from the Powerperfect? If you're turning the leftmost **** and not getting any variation it sounds like the %adjust value for that **** is not set or is set to 0. Mine's set to 10% and at idle will stall the car with 1/4 turn in either direction rich or lean.

Dan

Swedish Meatball

Thanks for the tip! Hmm where is that temp sensor located?

I haven't plugged in the coolant temp sensor anywhere yet since I installed an oil cooled only turbo.. Could that cause these problems? I was hoping that sensor was only used for the water temp gauge...

Swedish Meatball

Hmm! That seems weird! I did try to download and upload to the eprom a couple of times to make sure it was working correctly.. I sent the map I downloaded from lindsey to the eprom.. Then I recieved it from the eprom and checked to see that the voltage was the same as those I sent.. And yes, that seemed to match. The only thing I was a bit confused over was that the %adjustvalue I sent to the eprom wasn't the same I got back when I recieved the data again.. Are those values supposed to be retrieved as well when you get the data from the eprom? Or are they just set to a default value after you've retrieved data from it?

951_VAB

Those values for the %adjust are part of the map and should be what you get back from it when you pull it back. Are you turning the ignition off completely after the upload, then turning it back to accessory and retreiving? I think you must cut the power in between or it won't save it.

Dan

951_VAB

and once you've verifiied that the new map you saved to PP is what you've pulled back, be sure to save it locally as basemap.lio or whatever before tinkering more. It's really really easy to mess it up...that much I do know! Good luck.

Dan

Swedish Meatball

Thanks for the help! Ok so then there probably was something wrong with the upload! Hmm I am cutting the power inbetween uploads... I was having a bit of a struggle with the MAFtuner program I recieved on CD - it was complaining about the hardware not being the correct version and stuff.. But when I downloaded the program from lindsey's site it was some other version and worked better without the error messages..

Could it be only my piggyback causing my car to have such a low A/F value on idle and stalling when I move the throttle? I bought the MAF kit used so there should be some kind of map on it from start.. Shouldn't I be getting a betterA/F value than 10 even with a, for my car, super bad map?

schnellfahrer

Are you sure you are getting power to the MAF?

Swedish Meatball

I'm sure the piggyback retrieves power, but no, I haven't checked if the MAF iself recieves any.. I'll check it next time in the garage! Thanks! Keep the trouble shooting ideas coming

hally

have developed a maf chip that makes life a lot easier for tuning a lindsey s2 maf, collated info on what i've done here if of interest:
http://gregorh.customer.netspace.net.../mafchips.html

pa944red

Has anyone used hally's chip for the LR stage 2 MAF? If anyone has, please PM me.

Thank you
Tom

Swedish Meatball

Woho! Thanks for all the help - the connections to my MAF were bad and now when I changed them things worked a lot better!

When I turned the voltage DOWN on the piggyback the A/F went up to 14ish.. I thought I had to raise the voltage instead of lowering it! Does that sound right?

Ok so tomorrow I'll hopefully be able to start map the car.. I just want to make sure I have understood things right;

Idle A/F: 14.7:1
Cruise A/F: 15:1 - 16:1
Full Load A/F: 12:1 - 12.5:1

Ok first I'll let the car idle and set the idle A/F to 14.7:1
Next, since my car almost stalls as soon as I push the throttle, should I just let it stay in neutral and give it some throttle until the next light on the piggyback lights up, spin that **** to the right A/F from above and then continue with the rest of the ***** like that?
Next I should be able to take the car for a spin and map it on like fourth gear or something, right? Or should I first map it somewhat on first, then go on to second, and so on to make sure the A/F is somewhat right when I get to fourth gear.. Hmm does it show I'm a novice on this??

Please advise! Thank you

OriginalSterm

That's right. Turning the **** down tells the car there is less air and therefore it needs less fuel, so the a/f ratio number goes up.

sweanders

Jim, do you let curious Skåningar join for for a tuning session?