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Intercooler hose pops off?

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Old 06-18-2006, 09:25 AM
  #16  
SchnellerUmsetzer
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Mine did that and it died I mean quit like a Union worker on strike. So I had it towed to the shop fearing the worst on to fine out that the "Canadian Clamp" was junk. Peter, the Porsche Mech, put a new clap on it and off it went like a jet.
Old 06-18-2006, 10:22 AM
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reno808
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use the t-bolt clamp and the silcon joints
Old 06-18-2006, 05:22 PM
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comatb
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Thank you all for your advice an experiences. My Mechanic want to use Wiggins clamps:

http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardwa...insclamps.html

Bill
Old 06-18-2006, 05:30 PM
  #19  
Bri Bro
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Bill, how did your mechanic butt weld the hose to the Weld Ferrules?
Old 06-18-2006, 10:09 PM
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Chris Prack
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Bill do you still have the OE airbox in the car?
Old 06-18-2006, 10:11 PM
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Eyal 951
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Wiggins clamps are overkill, and are you really gonna pay 150 each???
Old 06-19-2006, 09:24 AM
  #22  
comatb
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Originally Posted by beab951
Bill, how did your mechanic butt weld the hose to the Weld Ferrules?
Brian, my mechanic wants to use hard pipes to be able to weld the ferrules.

"Bill do you still have the OE airbox in the car?"

Chris - no it has a K27 with APE Mass air flow with K&N.

"Wiggins clamps are overkill, and are you really gonna pay 150 each???"

Eyal 951 - That's exactly why I asked the question. The Wiggins clamps seem to be the ultimate answer, but at a huge price. I've already replaced the stock rubber hoses, but that did not fix the problem. I just want to be sure that the next "fix" is the right one.

I don't know how to use multiple Quotes in one reply...sorry.

Bill
Old 06-19-2006, 10:34 AM
  #23  
Chris Prack
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Bill, all you need to do is secure the intercooler pipe to the coolant pipe. The factory had a clamp on the air filter housing if you remember. Since you now have the APE kit on your car the IC pipe will lift under boost and pull out of the hose at the IC since it is no longer held in place by anything but the hoses.

You can resolve this by simply zip tieing the IC pipe to the steel coolant pipe or aluminum water neck under it. If the pipe is tied down it won't come out of the boot.
Old 06-19-2006, 07:28 PM
  #24  
ENGINEERMAN
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Default Try CONSTANT TENSION WORM DRIVE CLAMPS

Try them. They really hold on tight. You can find all kinds of hose clamps at McMaster Carr. You'll find them on page 231.

Good Luck!


http://www.mcmaster.com/

Constant-Tension Lined Worm-Drive Hose and Tube Clamps
As temperature changes cause hose and tube to expand and contract, the compressed springs in these clamps increase or decrease the clamp diameter. This automatic compensation for temperature fluctuations reduces leaks and eliminates the need for retightening. Clamps have an extended band that acts as a liner to protect hose covers. Clamps are reusable.
Clamps have good corrosion resistance, except for zinc-plated screws, which have fair corrosion resistance. All have Type 301 stainless steel springs. Band is 0.028" thick. Temperature range is -50° to +250° F. Meet SAE J1508.
9/16" Band Width Clamps— Band is Type 301 stainless steel. Housing is Type 302 stainless steel. Screw tightens with a wrench or 5/16" hex nutdriver. Torque is 50 in.-lbs.
5/8" Band Width Clamps— Band and housing are Type 304 stainless steel. Screw tightens with a wrench or 3/8" hex nutdriver. Torque is 90 in.-lbs.
Note: When choosing a clamp, measure the outside diameter of your hose with the fitting installed.
with Zinc-Plated with Type 410
Clamp ID Range
SAE Steel Screw Stain. Steel Screw
Inch mm No. Each Each

9/16" Band Width
9/16"-1 1/16" 14-27 —— —— ——
54205K11 $3.91

11/16"-1 1/4" 17-32 —— —— ——
54205K13 4.16

13/16"-1 1/2" 21-38 —— —— ——
54205K15 4.29

13/16"-1 3/4" 21-44 —— —— ——
54205K17 4.42

1 1/16"-2" 27-51 —— —— ——
54205K19 4.55

5/8" Band Width
1"-1 3/4" 25-44 —— 5281K16 $5.35
5325K27 6.79

1 1/4"-2 1/8" 32-54 212 5281K17 5.35
5325K28 6.79

1 3/4"-2 5/8" 45-67 262 5281K18 5.38
5325K29 6.83

2 1/4"-3 1/8" 57-79 312 5281K19 5.47
5325K31 6.94

2 3/4"-3 5/8" 70-92 362 5281K21 5.52
5325K32 7.00

3 1/4"-4 1/8" 83-105 412 5281K22 5.60
5325K33 7.09

3 3/4"-4 5/8" 95-118 462 5281K23 5.66
5325K34 7.17

4 1/4"-5 1/8" 108-130 512 5281K24 5.75
5325K35 7.28

4 3/4"-5 5/8" 121-143 562 5281K25 5.94
5325K36 7.51

5 1/4"-6 1/8" 133-156 612 5281K26 6.01
5325K37 7.61

5 3/4"-6 5/8" 146-168 662 5281K27 6.04
5325K38 7.65

6 1/4"-7 1/8" 159-181 712 5281K28 6.15
5325K39 7.78

6 3/4"-7 5/8" 172-194 762 5281K29 6.40
5325K41 8.08

7 1/4"-8 1/8" 184-206 812 5281K31 6.48
5325K42 8.18

7 3/4"-8 5/8" 197-219 862 5281K32 6.54
5325K43 8.25

8 1/4"-9 1/8" 210-232 912 5281K33 6.63
5325K44 8.37
Old 06-20-2006, 12:20 AM
  #25  
comatb
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Default Another tip

Originally Posted by Chris Prack
Bill, all you need to do is secure the intercooler pipe to the coolant pipe. The factory had a clamp on the air filter housing if you remember. Since you now have the APE kit on your car the IC pipe will lift under boost and pull out of the hose at the IC since it is no longer held in place by anything but the hoses.

You can resolve this by simply zip tieing the IC pipe to the steel coolant pipe or aluminum water neck under it. If the pipe is tied down it won't come out of the boot.
Thanks Chris, we hadn't noticed that.
Old 06-20-2006, 12:22 AM
  #26  
comatb
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[QUOTE=ENGINEERMAN]Try them. They really hold on tight. You can find all kinds of hose clamps at McMaster Carr. You'll find them on page 231.

Good Luck!


http://www.mcmaster.com/

Wow, I'm amazed at the help and knowledge this forum provides. Thanks you all....I really appreciate the help.

Bill
Old 06-20-2006, 01:26 AM
  #27  
Eyal 951
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T-Bolt clamps do the job great, not one blow off since I switched over. It was like 30-40 bucks for 10 of em.



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