968 M030 Sway Bays fitting to 90 944 Turbo
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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968 M030 Sway Bays fitting to 90 944 Turbo
I have ordered some 968 M030 front sway bars to fit to my 90 944 Turbo. Does anyone know if I need to order the end circlip for the bar, or will the existing circlip on the 944 Turbo bar fit?
#3
Rennlist Member
As far as I know, there is no c-clip on any front sway bar, other than the 968 M030 30mm bar. So I would doubt that your car currently has factory clips on the ends. Even if it does, they will not fit the 968 30mm bar, since the ends are also a larger diameter, which is why the 30mm bars use diffent drop link bushings than the earlier/smaller bars.
Whether or not the c-clip is really "needed", I cant say for sure. I have seen a car w/ a 30mm front bar that had the end pop out of the drop link bushing on the track - but there was some question about the bar itself being bent. I have always used the c-clips on my 968 M030 bars, but never had a problem running stock 26.8mm or 25.5mm bars w/o clips.
Whether or not the c-clip is really "needed", I cant say for sure. I have seen a car w/ a 30mm front bar that had the end pop out of the drop link bushing on the track - but there was some question about the bar itself being bent. I have always used the c-clips on my 968 M030 bars, but never had a problem running stock 26.8mm or 25.5mm bars w/o clips.
#4
You might want to order up a set of new swaybar mounts and a support bracket to triangulate the mount for more support. If you do not and autox or track your car you will shortly snap one of the brackets at the mounting holes. You are now transfering greater loads to an already older and fatiqued part.
With in 6 events of adding the full set of MO030 sways I had a mount break at a DE. The mount is just an L bracket with 2mm bolts mounting it. That winter I had planned to fab an angle support from some flat stock. It would run from the bar holder bolts to the frame to provide more support. I think the flex of the mounts has more to do with ends pulling out than anything else.
You may want to replace the drop links also while you are ordering new bushings. I had one break along it's length at the mounting bolt. You know the old "While your in there..."
The reason for beefing up the other parts, is that when you add the M030 bars to a stock suspension your are now requiring them to do more work that with a full M030 setup. They are making up for the soft springs, where a full setup distributes that work to the shocks and heaver springs.
With in 6 events of adding the full set of MO030 sways I had a mount break at a DE. The mount is just an L bracket with 2mm bolts mounting it. That winter I had planned to fab an angle support from some flat stock. It would run from the bar holder bolts to the frame to provide more support. I think the flex of the mounts has more to do with ends pulling out than anything else.
You may want to replace the drop links also while you are ordering new bushings. I had one break along it's length at the mounting bolt. You know the old "While your in there..."
The reason for beefing up the other parts, is that when you add the M030 bars to a stock suspension your are now requiring them to do more work that with a full M030 setup. They are making up for the soft springs, where a full setup distributes that work to the shocks and heaver springs.
#5
Rennlist Member
I for one actually had my M030 sway bar pop out ... on my 951s
My remedy was effective although not all that perty .... and cheap too
I uses ss hose clamps to bracket all four bushings that run along the bar
so 8 in all were used.. It never came out again ...
I might suspect that a PS fluid leak( may ) have helped the bar along in popping out ?
Regards
Ed
My remedy was effective although not all that perty .... and cheap too
I uses ss hose clamps to bracket all four bushings that run along the bar
so 8 in all were used.. It never came out again ...
I might suspect that a PS fluid leak( may ) have helped the bar along in popping out ?
Regards
Ed
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#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Sam when you say reinforcements, is that for the swaybar mount?
Rich, its good we have a large base of experiences, I wonder why one set works without the clips and others don't? My car is an 86 also.
Rich, its good we have a large base of experiences, I wonder why one set works without the clips and others don't? My car is an 86 also.
#11
Nordschleife Master
Dunno Dan. Could be that that bar is bent, or that the frame rails is bent, or that the drop mounts are bent (or backwards). Could be any of those things.
Or it could be that I drive like an absolute animal and twist the car so much that it pops out.
We'll never know...
Or it could be that I drive like an absolute animal and twist the car so much that it pops out.
We'll never know...
#12
The KLA is a piece of flat steel stock with each end bent .... Oh heck lets see if we can find a pic..... Aah! From the Paragon SiteIt runs from the sway bar end of the mount (#10 below) to the front bolt on the cross member.
The sway bar bracket will fatique at the mount holes. (Bolt #6) The drop link (6) at the loop post joint.
As to why some people have the ends pop out may have to do with a sum of issues. Flexing sway bar mount (4), old bushings (1,2,3), how much preload is on the droplink mount bushings (3), how worn are your struts.
The sway bar bracket will fatique at the mount holes. (Bolt #6) The drop link (6) at the loop post joint.
As to why some people have the ends pop out may have to do with a sum of issues. Flexing sway bar mount (4), old bushings (1,2,3), how much preload is on the droplink mount bushings (3), how worn are your struts.
#13
Rennlist Member
We put in the front 968 M030 sway bar in my car today and it is a noticeable improvement. I highly recommend it. Rear should be going in on Tuesday. Special thanks to Laust.
#14
Obligatory mantra needed here, it seems
Short of the limit, all of the front reinforcing and stiffening discussed here adds to the overall grip of our car. At the limit...stiffer front bars, harder bushings, reinforced front sway bar brackets, strut brance, upgraded springs and shocks...will change the balance of your car strongly toward understeer if corresponding changes are not made in the rear.
Adding the 19 mm adjustable rear bar helps, especially on the shortest setting, but just be alert to how much stiffer you make the nose, because at some point rear torsion bars and rear shocks may have to be upgraded to keep the bar balanced at speed.
Another factor in front/rear balance is front/rear ride height. As cool as the lowered rears look, if the car gets too low in the rear it tends to add to understeer. Although this may sound a bit counterintuitive, a car with real stiff front springs and/or wider rear rubber can sometimes benefit from a slight increase in rear ride height to help it rotate in the middle of turns.
Short of the limit, all of the front reinforcing and stiffening discussed here adds to the overall grip of our car. At the limit...stiffer front bars, harder bushings, reinforced front sway bar brackets, strut brance, upgraded springs and shocks...will change the balance of your car strongly toward understeer if corresponding changes are not made in the rear.
Adding the 19 mm adjustable rear bar helps, especially on the shortest setting, but just be alert to how much stiffer you make the nose, because at some point rear torsion bars and rear shocks may have to be upgraded to keep the bar balanced at speed.
Another factor in front/rear balance is front/rear ride height. As cool as the lowered rears look, if the car gets too low in the rear it tends to add to understeer. Although this may sound a bit counterintuitive, a car with real stiff front springs and/or wider rear rubber can sometimes benefit from a slight increase in rear ride height to help it rotate in the middle of turns.