Some questions
1.Can I trust the local Napa machine shop to turn my flywheel if they've never turned a Porsche flywheel?
2.Is it worth it to just get a Lindsey remanufactured one instead?
3.Does anyone have feed back on the Lindsey units?

4.I'm sending my clutch fork to Markus Blasak for rebuild. What's the best way
to ship into Canada?
5.The oil seal on the front of the transaxle is leaking. Is this normal or
indicative of ware in the transaxle.

Thanks

 

Had my flywheel done local, no problems($35) just make sure they grind all the way to the outside lip.

Transaxle seal ia a simple change out, not a sign of any major problems

 

Why not buy a new clutch fork? It's such a high stress part, I would think it's not worth the hassle to rebuild? FWIW, I put in a new unit, myself.

 

Thanks David, I'll see how Napa does with it
.
Markus Blasak rebuilds them to better than stock spec. They are bullit proof after he is done with it , at least this is what I'm told.

 

David have you tried any tests with the hood gills installed ? Wondering how they work and look.

 

Still at the bodyshop, damage from the wreck is repaired and prep on the rest of the body is just about complete.

I took on a second job last week, so my free time is gone. I may have my bodyshop buddy finish the job, I really want to finish the job myself, but time is now limited.

The louvers look great even just primed

 

Tim, I would say go for it, but if you are planning on running a Kevlar disc you must get the flywheel Ground using cutters not a "record" finsih that occurs when using a lathe and carbide bit (like brake rotors). This will tear the Kevlar up. Have you talked with Markus in regards to a clutch package? I just bought one from him (Stage 3 Kevlar disc and PP-30% increase over stock). I am very happy with it and the LWFW. I used UPS for the Canade Standard shipping. Watch for Brokerage fees when you parts come back to you from Canada. It will show up as a COD and you have to make check out to UPS Cutstoms Brokerage for the amount. Hope this helps.

 

Tim,
I'd check with people locally to see if they can re-surface a flywheel correctly. I went ahead and bought a Fidanza Aluminum one instead becasue the local guys always screw stuff up. If they seem to do a good job, i wouldn't hesitate to use them.

 

Not to be caustic but I have taken more than my share of flywheels to a local shop. It is about one step more technical than turning a brake rotor or picking your nose while driving. Just make sure you have the specs and get before and after numbers. I pay $30 while you wait, 15 minutes tops. Why in God's name would you get a clutch fork rebuilt? Buy a new one without 20 years of loading on it.

 

I agree that resurfacing a plain flywheel is not technical, but there's one thing that makes the 951 flywheel a little technical. The flywheel has a thin lip on the outside edge that is very important for keeping the pressure plate nicely centered on the flywheel. I had mine done at the Napa machine shop that supposedly does work for all the Napa's in the Atlanta metro area. When I picked it up, I immediately notice that they had taken material off of the inside edge of this centering lip. Thankfully, I was able to get them to pay for a replacement.

A good shop will take off the smallest amount of material necessary with a cup grinder, will additionally cut in to the corner of the outside lip to keep it nice and square (if left rounded, it could hold the pressure plate up and prevent it from bolting up tight against the flywheel), and will cut down the top of the outside lip the same amount as was taken off the surface of the flywheel (not doing this could also prevent the pressure plate from bolting tight up to the flywheel). There are specifications in the Turbo supplement service manual for minimum thickness after resurfacing.

 

I had the same question. How does one rebuild a clutch fork? And how does this "rebuild" make it so much better than a stock one?

 

Dacula, thanks for the info. I'll specify those details. Hopefully they do a good job.

The rebuild of the fork involves welding new material on the tips, shapeing and then heat treating the fork. He then replaces the bearings with custom made bushings that are lubed and sealed.
If you do a search you will find info on this. It's how I found out about it.