1st Time Oil Pan Gasket Installation Questions
#1
Burning Brakes
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after watching it leak for over a year and blow out under boost onto exhaust creating smokescreen, i've decided to start thinking about doing this so i have some questions.
1) what parts do i need? i've added up the following:
oil pan gasket (duh), intake gasket, ex manifold gasket, what other gaskets are needed?
plastic OEM baffle
metal gasket holder things as seen on rennlist
rod bearings
rod bolts
2) do i plastigauge the rod bearings? what brand of bearings? oversize or standard?
3) does pan gasket need sealant? if so, what kind/brand?
4) what am i completely forgetting here? or anything else to do while i'm in there? i'm assuming i should do the rod bearings even though no symptoms of any problems.
thanks guys
1) what parts do i need? i've added up the following:
oil pan gasket (duh), intake gasket, ex manifold gasket, what other gaskets are needed?
plastic OEM baffle
metal gasket holder things as seen on rennlist
rod bearings
rod bolts
2) do i plastigauge the rod bearings? what brand of bearings? oversize or standard?
3) does pan gasket need sealant? if so, what kind/brand?
4) what am i completely forgetting here? or anything else to do while i'm in there? i'm assuming i should do the rod bearings even though no symptoms of any problems.
thanks guys
#2
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1. You'll need the crush gaskets for the x-over. Don't have to take off the exhaust manifold.
2. You could update to the later baffle. (Assuming you have the old style.)
3. Send your pan and oil pick up tube to Lindsey for the baffle & weld ring update.
4. Replace the oil pick up tube seal.
5. Think about a 3 piece x-member & cross over.
6. The gasket holders are made my Myswiss. I have them on my car.
7. Check out Clark's garage for a write up.
8. It's a good time to work on the steering rack, tie rods, a-arms, and stuff like that.
2. You could update to the later baffle. (Assuming you have the old style.)
3. Send your pan and oil pick up tube to Lindsey for the baffle & weld ring update.
4. Replace the oil pick up tube seal.
5. Think about a 3 piece x-member & cross over.
6. The gasket holders are made my Myswiss. I have them on my car.
7. Check out Clark's garage for a write up.
8. It's a good time to work on the steering rack, tie rods, a-arms, and stuff like that.
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by superloaf
after watching it leak for over a year and blow out under boost onto exhaust creating smokescreen, i've decided to start thinking about doing this so i have some questions.
1) what parts do i need? i've added up the following:
oil pan gasket (duh), intake gasket, ex manifold gasket, what other gaskets are needed?
plastic OEM baffle
metal gasket holder things as seen on rennlist
rod bearings
rod bolts
2) do i plastigauge the rod bearings? what brand of bearings? oversize or standard?
3) does pan gasket need sealant? if so, what kind/brand?
4) what am i completely forgetting here? or anything else to do while i'm in there? i'm assuming i should do the rod bearings even though no symptoms of any problems.
thanks guys
1) what parts do i need? i've added up the following:
oil pan gasket (duh), intake gasket, ex manifold gasket, what other gaskets are needed?
plastic OEM baffle
metal gasket holder things as seen on rennlist
rod bearings
rod bolts
2) do i plastigauge the rod bearings? what brand of bearings? oversize or standard?
3) does pan gasket need sealant? if so, what kind/brand?
4) what am i completely forgetting here? or anything else to do while i'm in there? i'm assuming i should do the rod bearings even though no symptoms of any problems.
thanks guys
I know I have an oil leak, and I am almost positive it is the oil pan, however even after washing the engine completely and making a quick run I can not tell where it is coming from exactly. On the dyno my car actually made a puff of oil smoke from under the hood as I was running the car, so could this be my issue?
It makes sense to me, however I just want to confirm that this is possible and if so, I think I've found my problem.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Plastigauge is not a bad idea, however not really necessary if you are just going to replace the bearings anyway. If you do replace the bearings, you will want standard size unless you plan on machining the rod itself if there is damage to the bearing surface. Porsche OEM parts are always the best idea. Ask for the updated bearing set.
#5
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if your car is an '87 and later, remember to remove the oil level sensor from the pan before trying to pull it off; it is not in the clark's garage write up. It is three bolts that are eight mm. Get some 3M weatherstrip adhesive AKA gorilla snot to glue the gasket to the pan or block. Be CAREFUL when you torque the pan bolts, they can strip easily and follow the torque sequence. If you haven't replaced hoses under the intake, it might be smart. Balljoints wouldn't be bad to replace if they are worn. Good luck man
#6
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I always find the glue thing interesting, no offense. I've installed 6 gaskets on different engines over the last 5 or 6 years and never had one leak, installed clean and dry, a small dab of silicone in each corner. If you're having to glue an oil pan gasket in to keep it from leaking, something else is wrong.
The pan bolts have sequence and torque; use paper clips to align the gasket in the pan, every other one on the install as this will keep the gasket in place as you get started. Open the clip up, stick half into the pan and gasket insert, install half the bolts, remove the paper clips and install the other bolts. Hand tight, follow sequence from here to torque; hand tight, 3lftb, then 7ftlb.
Depending on the age of the fiber gasket off the wastegate dump, I would get one of those too, along with crush rings(LR has copper gaskets for the 1-4 and 2-3 connections and copper for exhaust to down pipe,) crush rings for wastegate, crush ring for turbo inlet, copper nuts for crossover and turbo, rod nuts(55ftlb), oring for dipstick, assembly lube for new rod bearings, replace the large o-ring in the oil pick up(if you track the car, the recommendation for baffled pan and pickup mod are good). Now would be a good time to check out the LR cross over and 3pc cross member, as you could drop the pan in less than an hour.
The pan bolts have sequence and torque; use paper clips to align the gasket in the pan, every other one on the install as this will keep the gasket in place as you get started. Open the clip up, stick half into the pan and gasket insert, install half the bolts, remove the paper clips and install the other bolts. Hand tight, follow sequence from here to torque; hand tight, 3lftb, then 7ftlb.
Depending on the age of the fiber gasket off the wastegate dump, I would get one of those too, along with crush rings(LR has copper gaskets for the 1-4 and 2-3 connections and copper for exhaust to down pipe,) crush rings for wastegate, crush ring for turbo inlet, copper nuts for crossover and turbo, rod nuts(55ftlb), oring for dipstick, assembly lube for new rod bearings, replace the large o-ring in the oil pick up(if you track the car, the recommendation for baffled pan and pickup mod are good). Now would be a good time to check out the LR cross over and 3pc cross member, as you could drop the pan in less than an hour.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by badass951
Blow out onto the exhaust under boost? So, it is possible for the pan gasket to appear as though it only has a small leak, however under boost the seal can actually allow oil to blow out onto the exhaust and still appear as it did prior to running under boost?
I know I have an oil leak, and I am almost positive it is the oil pan, however even after washing the engine completely and making a quick run I can not tell where it is coming from exactly. On the dyno my car actually made a puff of oil smoke from under the hood as I was running the car, so could this be my issue?
It makes sense to me, however I just want to confirm that this is possible and if so, I think I've found my problem.
I know I have an oil leak, and I am almost positive it is the oil pan, however even after washing the engine completely and making a quick run I can not tell where it is coming from exactly. On the dyno my car actually made a puff of oil smoke from under the hood as I was running the car, so could this be my issue?
It makes sense to me, however I just want to confirm that this is possible and if so, I think I've found my problem.
and as for the oil blowing out under boost--this is just a hunch. i haven't located the exact source and at first i thought the smoke was coming out the exhaust and worried about my turbo. but it only comes out periodically and just the way it swirls behind car makes me think it's dripping onto exhaust. i can't explain exactly why but i think my hunch is right. plugs are clean, car runs excellent with no hesitation when smoke appears. smoke appears only under hard boost, usually at lower speeds (1st, 2nd gear) and at first was more apparent at night in car's headlights behind me. color of smoke is kind of hard to tell--bluish gray but looks darker than oil burning through engine.
i need to have someone follow me under boost and confirm it's coming from under car & not out exhaust, but none of my friends are car people so i wouldn't trust them.
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#9
Burning Brakes
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motor mounts are good. ball joints are rennbay metal bushing. steering is manual conversion. wastegate gaskets & bolts replaced a couple of years ago when shim was put in. 3 piece cross over parts are a bit costly since this gasket should last another 130k miles, right?
car's an '86--i want to install the updated baffle. will it fit or do i have to have a specific oil pump? if it doesn't fit, is there an "outdated" baffle on the old style pump?
and are there different gasket materials? i also have a 16v scirocco and for that car they offer cork (crappy) or metal and rubber (better). are there different choices for the 951 ?
car's an '86--i want to install the updated baffle. will it fit or do i have to have a specific oil pump? if it doesn't fit, is there an "outdated" baffle on the old style pump?
and are there different gasket materials? i also have a 16v scirocco and for that car they offer cork (crappy) or metal and rubber (better). are there different choices for the 951 ?