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Stage 1 or 2 KEP PP

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Old 03-26-2006, 12:20 PM
  #46  
special tool
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Also - I forgot to mention - Thee KEP stage 1 puts additional strain on the hydraulic system. My hydraulics had to be completely replaced after 1 month of the KEP.
The stage 2 will put even MORE stress on it, absolutely unnecessarily.
The stage 1 with metalic disk will survive at least 800 ft/lbs.
Old 03-26-2006, 01:07 PM
  #47  
tconn
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I've just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders so should be ok.
I've got new needle bearings for the clutch fork. Do you think the fork will hold up to the KEP stage1 ?
Old 03-26-2006, 01:11 PM
  #48  
lart951
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Originally Posted by tconn
Well if ST and Jimbo are able to get away with a stage 1 KEP PP then that is probably what I'll go with too.

Lart what disc are you getting?



Does anyone want to call EBS and see if a group buy is possible?
Kep stage I
Old 03-26-2006, 01:15 PM
  #49  
tconn
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Lart I meant disc not PP. I've decided to get the ceramic bronze unless it's crazy expensive.
Old 03-26-2006, 01:45 PM
  #50  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by David Floyd
www.clutchnet.com

6 puck "Easy Lock Pro" spring centered I paid $200
I will need a flywheel/clutch/pp for my 3 liter project, assuming I ever get time to work on it again. (Mine will be primarily street driven.)

I want a clutch that is not a challenging to modulate -- doesn't need to feel like a civic, but I can't deal with a light-switch clutch around town.

I'm planning to use a stock 951 flywheel for civil street driving.

David F., the site you linked says this about your clutch: "The quick engagement/disengagement requires full driver attention."

Is it too touchy to drive around town without fussing at every light?

Any comments on the 930 disk? Is the 930 disk a direct drop-in and, if so, anyone here using one on a 350+rwhp car with the KEP1 -- with good results?
Old 03-26-2006, 02:14 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by tconn
Lart I meant disc not PP. I've decided to get the ceramic bronze unless it's crazy expensive.
Me too, the sprung ceramic bronze that's the one
Old 03-26-2006, 03:16 PM
  #52  
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I want a clutch that is not a challenging to modulate -- doesn't need to feel like a civic, but I can't deal with a light-switch clutch around town.
I'm with Tom on that one. I'm planning to get my car in the 350/375 HP range so I'm also inclined to go with the 930 disc.

If anyone has experience with the KEP Stage 1 PP and 930 disc please share your thoughts.
Old 03-26-2006, 03:40 PM
  #53  
lart951
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I am going with the kep stg 1 and the following clutch
6 button E-Z Lock (sprung hub) clutch for Porsche 944 #17957
6 button E-Z Lock (sprung hub) clutch for Porsche 944 RACING 6 BUTTON “E-Z LOCK” ™ SPRUNG HUB CLUTCH DISC
Clutch Disc is designed for drag and road race use.
The most popular disc among street racers.
This disc has the advantages of the solid hub metallic button clutch disc with the additional feature of the sprung hub. This is used in requirements where the drive train is susceptible to torsion damage. Specifically designed three retainers protect damper springs from both sides, and significantly improve safety of the product.
Center has a unique feature of being assembled with six rivets for extra strength.
The quick engagement/disengagement requires full driver attention. Patented by ClutchNet.

Fits:
Porsche 944 1989-85 2479cc Turbo

Specifications:
Outside Diameter:9 1/2 inches (241 mm)
Spline Major Diameter:1
Spline Teeth: 23

Performance level: Red

To build your kit remember to match Performance level colors as well as the car model and engine type.

SKU: 18702CR34

Details

Weight 4.50 lbs
Price: $259.00
Attached Images  
Old 03-26-2006, 04:11 PM
  #54  
Tom M'Guinn

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How about a Cup disk with KEP1 and stock flywheel -- anyone try that? Good for 425rwhp?
Old 03-26-2006, 04:47 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by tconn
I've just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders so should be ok.
I've got new needle bearings for the clutch fork. Do you think the fork will hold up to the KEP stage1 ?
Get one from Marcus Blaszak. He puts sintered bronze bearings in them and welds them up for strengthing. $120USD or so. I have one for my car, and the shop I order parts through has one in their race car.

mblaszak@kos.net
Old 03-26-2006, 05:39 PM
  #56  
tconn
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Brian thanks
I looked at his web site awhile ago but didn't see anything about the clutch fork.
Do I have to send him my fork?

Lart,
I think that is the same disc that David Floyd is using.
Old 03-26-2006, 05:44 PM
  #57  
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old man Kennedy will only give you twist numbers - not HP.
Tom - you should be okay.
Old 03-26-2006, 06:03 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by tconn
Brian thanks
I looked at his web site awhile ago but didn't see anything about the clutch fork.
Do I have to send him my fork?

Lart,
I think that is the same disc that David Floyd is using.
Yes, it is the same as Pink Floyd is using
Old 03-26-2006, 07:09 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by tconn
Brian thanks
I looked at his web site awhile ago but didn't see anything about the clutch fork.
Do I have to send him my fork?

Lart,
I think that is the same disc that David Floyd is using.
His site doesnt list everything he does. I think he'll want your old fork and the shaft, the shaft gets some work done to it too.
Old 03-26-2006, 09:06 PM
  #60  
David Floyd
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn

David F., the site you linked says this about your clutch: "The quick engagement/disengagement requires full driver attention."

Is it too touchy to drive around town without fussing at every light?
I daily drive my car, you need 1500 rpm or better for a smooth take off, it is really not that touchy.

Now at your favorite dirve-thru, that takes some practice

I am happy with my clutch setup. Now...would I prefer it be a little more forgiving ? sure But I have no worries about slippage.


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