iight so i'm about to pick up this 944T that has been sitting around for 3 years (hey its only 2,500) So anyway, what do i need to replace and what should I look for

I'm tryin to come up with a price list so i'll know exactly how much i need to just get it running

Thanks in advance guys

-e

 

Untill you get it running you can't put a list together. Why was it sitting in the first place? Something must have happen to it.

 

no no, i'm tryin to get a list of stuff i need to get it running, like i know the basics all gaskets and hoses, fuel pump, filters, injectors, plugs, wires.
But i know i'm missing something

It was sitting because it had a mechnics lean on it because some doushe never paid his bill
But when i went up to look a the body freakin amazing no dings dents or anything, looks like all you have to do it put a coat of clear on it

 

I would not even attempt to start the car without doing the timing belt first.

 

Same, water pump would come right after it started

 

THATS WHAT I'M TALKIN BOUT, see something i forgot haha

imagineauto huh, i still got a gift certificate from yall when i was at RENNSTOCK 05' (wusup wit 06 guys)

 

Let's see...other stuff...

Tires (they get flat spots and vibrate, and dry out)
brake pads/hydraulics -- check carefully!
Gas tank -- drain and refill if possible
new coolant/oil/ps fluid/tranny fluid
check for fuel leaks -- have extinguisher handy
Windshield wipers
Be sure to get a clean title!

 

I picked up a 944 like this...many years without running...fuel became like glue so fuel pump was frozen...all the fuel related stuff needed cleaning or replacement

 

and check carefully for dead bodies. Cadavers really hurt resale on a car.
You're going to need a battery, check all of the wires/grounds, reference sensors, and buy a large quantity of fine toothed combs. The title thing is important, as was mentioned above. Sounds like it will be a fun project. Good luck with it.

 

fine toothed combs???

i'm black, i have a fro, i buy picks

 

Fine tooth combs to go over everything very carefully. Picks will work in this regard as well.

Plan on replacing all fluids (don't forget brake fluid). Have the injectors removed and cleaned as the fuel has certainly gunked them up by now. While you're doing the timing belt and waterpump, just plan on a full frontal reseal w/ new rollers.

Before you attempt to start it, disconnect the coil wire and crank it until you get some oil pressure. Don't want to freeze anything due to lack of oil flow.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

 

Sounds familiar. . . My car was in a similar situation when I got it.

Unfortunately there's no surefire way to get everything the first go-around. As has been said, at least check the timing belts before even starting it. Most likely all the throwaway items (filters, fluids, etc.) will need replacing. Hoses get brittle, vacuum lines start leaking, pulleys start siezing. First go-around I'd replace anything that looks like it needs it (including the t-belts and water pump), then drive it for a couple of weeks (but expect it's going to leave you stranded once or twice). Make a list of all the "glitches" that need to be addressed on a second session and go from there. Figure it's going to be a lot of labor and could get expensive at times. You may get lucky. You may not. These cars are pretty durable, but sitting does NOT help them.

Best of luck.

 

Posting as a newb, so "Hi" everybody

I recently picked up a 951 project car. Looking through the maintanence records, it appears that the 1st owner let the car sit for a long time before the 2nd owner bought it. It looks like the biggest problem that developed was that a seal in the oil cooler leaked, allowing coolant into the crankcase. Bottom end was damaged, and bearings and crank had to be reworked.

Sorry that this isn't first-hand experience, but I figured I'd pass it on. I'm just repeating what I've read on the service records...

_Jeff

 

In addition to the previous suggestions, I would put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and rock the engine back and forth with the crank pulley bolt. It is a 24mm, and you will need the shortest extension made.

Are you going to flat bed this beast to your shop so you can tear into it there?

Let's start a check list of things to do, but do not consider this complete.

ENGINE
1. drain fuel tank, lines and rail
2. remove and clean injectors
3. replace fuel filter
4. verify that the fuel pump still works
5. Change oil - if the oil is milky looking, you need to figure out why. If milky, add the oil
cooler seals to the list as they are the most likely culprit.
6. change belts (leave covers off temporarily if not just replacing everything) - check water pump
and front seals. If they are obviously leaking, add them to the list
7. check/top up coolant - if the water pump was changed, inspect the hoses and change any that
are soft, brittle or just do all of them along with the clamps. use a phosphate/silicate free coolant
diluted with distilled water.
8. remove spark plugs and oil cylinders
9. replace battery - inspect battery tray for rust and holes.
10. clean grounds on rear of engine block as a minimum. Do not turn on ignition with these grounds
disconnected, or you will fry the DME/KLR.
11. change oil filter. prime the oil pump by filling the hole in the filter mount that is not centered. add
oil to the center hole which will give the oil galley a head start filling.
12. remove DME relay and turn engine over until you get some indication of oil pressure
13. Reinstall/replace spark plugs
14. start car and inspect for leaks
15. Verify condition of vacuum lines etc. by taking the old fuel filter, cutting it in half and inserting a
tire valve in it. Remove the air flow meter and insert this tool there. This is your tool to
pressurize the engine systems, and when you spray soapy water over everything, you will see
bubbles at leaks. Use duct tape on the exhaust tip. Correct all leaks. This can involve intake
manifold removal, which is not hard, all the way up to exhaust manifolds, which is a royal PITA.

BEFORE DRIVING
1. flush brake/clutch fluid, check brake pads/rotors
2. transaxle gear oil
3. inflate tires
4. oil locks and hinges
5. check all bulbs
6. replace wiper blades
7. check ball joints, suspension bushings, wheel bearings
8. change power steering reservoir and fluid. inspect system for leaks. there will be leaks most likely.
9. turn ignition on/off without starting car, and verify that the turbo coolant pump is working. It
should run for about 30 seconds whenever the ignition is switched off, regardless of coolant
temperature.


When changing the belts, grab the water pump pulley and see if there is any play in it or if the pulley turns smoothly. If the pump passes these tests, you have to decide if you want to go to the trouble of changing it or not. The safe thing is just to put a new one on it, but that adds $ to the project. The water pump can take out the timing belt (bent valves) if they sieze up. So that is why many will say replace it just to be safe.

You did not mention what year the car is, but here is a list of front engine parts for the 1986 model you may need.

944 8 VALVE FRONT ENGINE SEALS, BELTS & WATER PUMP PARTS LIST

From engine # 43F 06995 (1985) thru 1986 8 valve engines

Camshaft

1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (onion skin) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.027.04
1 each Stud 944.102.216.01
1 each Nut 944.102.243.00
1 each Smooth roller (for updated pump) 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
1 each Belt 944.105.157.04

Crankshaft

1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00

Balance shafts

1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
1 each Belt 944.102.219.02

Water pump

1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05
1 each T-stat snap ring (can be reused) 900.042.025.01
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02

 

OMG WHERE IS THE PRINT BUTTON haha

Hell yea, i'm gonna rent a uhaul with a trailer, and off i go, along with that, the engine is out of the car because when the mechnic had it, it was to replace the syncories maybe not sure, but the engine will still be sitting out of the car when i pick it up. So I guess thats one advantage (i dont have to pull the engine out), but will that be a disadvantage due to the fact that the engine has been sitting outside the car for that long, i think the engine was just sitting in a shop