Antifreeze
#2
I use the blue Volkswagon/Audi stuff because it's definately safe for aluminum engines. But with the German quality comes a kinda high price of $20 a gallon. Most of the other brands that are safe are red or orange, I just prefer blue cause it looks good.
#5
I'm going with Evans NPG+ in the new iron sleeved block.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ns#post2513243
Pricey, but a lot of postitive benefits.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ns#post2513243
Pricey, but a lot of postitive benefits.
#6
You've got a lot of choices.
VW/Audi blue (G11)
VW/Audi pink/purple (G12/+)
Prestone yellow
etc.
As long as it is phosphate free, you're in the clear.
I prefer the VW/Audi blue, since it doesn't match the color of any of the other fluids in the car. Makes it easy to tell what's leaking.
At one point I was running Amsoil in the motor, and dexcool in the cooling system. So, I had red oil, red ATF and dark orange coolant..... Bad plan.
VW/Audi blue (G11)
VW/Audi pink/purple (G12/+)
Prestone yellow
etc.
As long as it is phosphate free, you're in the clear.
I prefer the VW/Audi blue, since it doesn't match the color of any of the other fluids in the car. Makes it easy to tell what's leaking.
At one point I was running Amsoil in the motor, and dexcool in the cooling system. So, I had red oil, red ATF and dark orange coolant..... Bad plan.
#7
Originally Posted by DanG
I'm going with Evans NPG+ in the new iron sleeved block.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ns#post2513243
Pricey, but a lot of postitive benefits.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ns#post2513243
Pricey, but a lot of postitive benefits.
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#8
Originally Posted by 420WHP944
Thats what I'm planning on putting in my car when I get back to Ireland this summer, I've also heard great reports on it....how much do we need and how much is it a quart/gallon?
on this
.how much do we need and how much is it a quart/gallon?
#10
I use a local brand that is phosphate free and "safe for aluminum engines & radiators", it is red (not pink or brown) in colour, like blood red.
I would not use what VW/Audi have (that pink stuff), it contains phosphate.
I also know that the 944/968 engines are extremely picky when it comes down to coolants, there was a thread not long ago on the 944 boards where a rennlister was replacing the headgasket and there was some pitting (or something like that) which was caused from the coolant.
I would not use what VW/Audi have (that pink stuff), it contains phosphate.
I also know that the 944/968 engines are extremely picky when it comes down to coolants, there was a thread not long ago on the 944 boards where a rennlister was replacing the headgasket and there was some pitting (or something like that) which was caused from the coolant.
#11
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From: Marietta, NY
The Evans costs approx $20 a gallon – I used to think that was really pricey until regular coolant went up to over $10.
You will need just a tad over two gallons to completely fill an empty system. Get three gallons so you have some extra.
You have to make sure there is not water in the system – an earlier poster mentioned flushing the system with the sierra stuff – that could be a good idea. If you are putting in the Evans after a rebuild don’t forget to blow out the old coolant in the heater core.
Chris White
You will need just a tad over two gallons to completely fill an empty system. Get three gallons so you have some extra.
You have to make sure there is not water in the system – an earlier poster mentioned flushing the system with the sierra stuff – that could be a good idea. If you are putting in the Evans after a rebuild don’t forget to blow out the old coolant in the heater core.
Chris White
#13
Originally Posted by special tool
I use Pentosin.
JK- Lutjens
Regards
Ed
ps I was really thinking of going with the waterless ( Like, Chris mentioned, Evans )
My system is so dry ( 1 + yrs and counting )Its like Death Valley in there
Last edited by Crazy Eddie; 03-21-2006 at 01:59 PM.
#14
Originally Posted by Chris White
The Evans costs approx $20 a gallon – I used to think that was really pricey until regular coolant went up to over $10.
You will need just a tad over two gallons to completely fill an empty system. Get three gallons so you have some extra.
You have to make sure there is not water in the system – an earlier poster mentioned flushing the system with the sierra stuff – that could be a good idea. If you are putting in the Evans after a rebuild don’t forget to blow out the old coolant in the heater core.
Chris White
You will need just a tad over two gallons to completely fill an empty system. Get three gallons so you have some extra.
You have to make sure there is not water in the system – an earlier poster mentioned flushing the system with the sierra stuff – that could be a good idea. If you are putting in the Evans after a rebuild don’t forget to blow out the old coolant in the heater core.
Chris White
#15
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From: Marietta, NY
I switched to the Evans when I put in the present 2.75 liter sleeved engine in – I was also adding the Griffins radiator at the same time.
I like it a lot – I can take the radiator cap off and drive the car around with no problems. The gauge does not vary much from the lower line – but then again it didn’t vary much when I was running in regular coolant.
Would switching to Evans fix somebody’s cooling problem? Maybe, but personally I would fix the problem instead of masking it with additional cooling.
Oddly enough the big plus (at least the way I think) is the reduction in nucleate boiling and the lowering of the system pressure. At 15lb of coolant pressure it can stress hoses and such after thousands of cycles.
The draw backs – a little more expensive, its slippery as hell if you do leak any and since the fluid does not boil it will not evaporate – so if you spill some and it sits on the block above the upper balance shaft – it will not go away!!
Chris White
I like it a lot – I can take the radiator cap off and drive the car around with no problems. The gauge does not vary much from the lower line – but then again it didn’t vary much when I was running in regular coolant.
Would switching to Evans fix somebody’s cooling problem? Maybe, but personally I would fix the problem instead of masking it with additional cooling.
Oddly enough the big plus (at least the way I think) is the reduction in nucleate boiling and the lowering of the system pressure. At 15lb of coolant pressure it can stress hoses and such after thousands of cycles.
The draw backs – a little more expensive, its slippery as hell if you do leak any and since the fluid does not boil it will not evaporate – so if you spill some and it sits on the block above the upper balance shaft – it will not go away!!
Chris White