Ski

well you have different calibrations with different MAFs. One other thing you might want to double check, if your WB has this option or sheet, is to check the voltage with a DVM at idle to make sure the signal your getting/reading is the correct voltage. Tech Edge gives you a sheet with voltage - readout values, plus a calibration sheet if it's off. Pretty handy IMO.

I would try FQS 1, then zero as suggested. Where do you have the injectors set on the graphical tuner?

kasturbo

They are set to 55lb with the tuner. Bret didn't you guys have this same setup before switching to the Vitesse chips? Do you remember what settings you used for the fqs switch? Is 0 the stock injector setting?

Ski

My car is set on zero, 95% sure(sorry I'm at work until Friday), I know the track car is at zero but it's on a race chip, race gas only.

kasturbo

I'll try changing that setting tonight then. Perhapse the calibration with the new maf is throwing it off far enough that the fqs setting now matters.

hally

Hi guys,
i'm currently in the process of development of a MAF chip for the lindsey stage 2 MAF.
So far I have addressed:
- the neutralisation of the on chip temp compensation table (as MAF signal is already a mass flow & has temp compenstion built into the voltage)
- on chip transfer function, idle and part throttle is in pretty good shape. Nice and smooth now, drives great without a piggyback. Ive tuned the air / fuel to 13.9 - 14.1 range in open loop (o2 sensor disconnected). In closed loop it zeros in nicely on 14.7.
- WOT is not bad, but needs more work, waiting on replacement of my air / oil separator which turned into ordering a new turbo while i was in there (-:

So in summary, it would make your piggyback tuning job much easier, particularly idle, and the off idle transition to part throttle where the lindsey stage 2 MAF transfer function is very steep in comparison to stock. If anyone wants to try it. drop me an email. currently i can only burn a 28pin DME, don't have local supply of 24pin.

jy951

This is an interesting thread. I'm having a problem with my MAFterburner set-up and the LR Stage 2 MAF. Except my problem is the exact OPPOSITE. I'm running too RICH at idle.

I'm using KoKeln chips and my idle has been in the 12.5-13.1 range. Yesterday, my stock 02 sensor was disconnected (intentionally) and I had to make MEGA adjustments to my MAFterburner MAF offset (it's now much leaner @ the MAF Offset of -233) and I had to adjust one cell that a rich setting (with the stock sensor) to -24 from +28. I now have four (up from three) MAFterburner cells reading lean at idle.

This combination (disconnected stcok 02, MAF offset adjustment, changing one cell from rich to lean) seems to get my idle at 14.5-14.8. I did a test run at work about 1.5 hrs ago. When I leave work (in 5 min), I will re-confirm these adjustments. I need to make further adjustments to make sure that I don't go on boost too hot - I'm looking for an AFR of 12.5:1 -12.7:1 when I go on boost.

If anything, MAFterburner has shown me how poor the programming is on many chips that were sold in the past.

By the way, my cruise is MUCH better after I disconnected the stock 02 sensor. Mike Lindsey was correct when he said that you should get better response when you use MAFterburner and your wideband 02 sensor for open and closed loop operation, and disconnect the stock 02. Of course, if you go on boost to hot under this set-up, I'm sure that you will blow a HG, because the DME has no direct feedback (from the stock 02 sensor) to pull back fuel, at least that's my thinking.

hally

jy when you get into the throttle, it goes into open loop and onto the WOT maps. So having the o2 sensor disconnected only effects your idle and PT a/f.

Ski

hally, are you saying that IF you had some 24pin chips you could burn them? I have about 12 if you'd like them.

hally

just emailed u you bret.

kasturbo

I didn't have any luck tonight. I tried a new tps and that did nothing. I also tried disconecting the o2 sensor with no help. Moving the fqs switch back to zero seemed to help a little. Now the car will see 14.7 for about 30 seconds and then run up to 20:1 in no time. This is new. What would cause this. Something is taking over. Could it be the chips?

hally

sounds like the transition from cold start. Runs in open loop on cold start and there is enrichment going on also. So leaning out coming off cold start makes some sense to me. Having the o2 sensor disconnected will help you tune, closed loop is just disguising areas of bad tune.

kasturbo

Would changing mafs affect this. I didn't have this problem with the old maf.

hally

Different MAFs have different calibrations, ie different voltage verse's flow curve, so yep.

kasturbo

So what do I do about it then? Lean out the cold start can only be done it the chips right?

hally

Cold start is suppose to be richer, so tune for the warmed up scenario with your piggyback. I would persist using the 55# FQS setting, although the stock setting will add more fuel and help you immediately with your idle, this will cause rich problems elsewhere etc. (and thow off your PT timing)