Mark-87-951

While I have my injectors being serviced, I thought I would install the annworx TB seal kit. I'm trying to test the TPS with a multimeter but all I get is 1 on the digital display when I contact the 4 ad 6 leads. It doesnt change no matter what position the TPS is in. Am I doing something wrong or is my TPS shot? I got the same results at all ohm settings on the multimeter.

35thSLP

sounds like the TPS is shot. do you hear a click when the throttle is being opened?

Mark-87-951

Still clicks even now when off the car.

IanS

1 as in 1 ohm? That would be bizarrely small resistance. Are you sure you have the right pins and haven't shorted the meter leads accidentally?

If you had 1 ohm TPS readings all the time I can't imagine your car would run smoothly.

Mark-87-951

first time Ive used the meter, its brand new. The car ran smooth enough, with just a small variation in idle and somtimes popping when coming off the throttle quickly. I tried the meter on some of the internal connections and got different readings so it does go above 1.

Rock

Heres a couple ways methinks would work.

Get a little LED light and hook it up to the diagnostic port. If the TPS is bad it will blink 3 times, pause and then blink another 3 times. It could also blink 4 times pause and then blink 1 time.

Or, you could try unplugging it with the engine running and if the RPMS change that could indicate its good. If they dont change then it could be bad.

Mark-87-951

unfortunately the car is down till I get my fuel injectors back, possibly tomorrow night. I'll try the unplugging it test soon after that, once I get the throttle body back together

Mark-87-951

ok, managed to get the probes set so I could rotate the mechanism to the click and hold it there. I get a reading of 30 or so, hard to be consistent as I dont have alligator clip probes. Off that click its just one the entire way. So what kind of readings should I be getting?

Mark-87-951

I found Clarke's Garage procedure for testing the tps

For the klr test my tps is shot. The dme test was iffy but that might have been due to a loose connection to ground. So, ordering a new tps today.

lleroyb

When I need to use a meter I am unfamiliar with for a continuity check (like you were) I touch the probes together and see what happens. Same thing should happen when you have good continuity through your switch.

Lou

bearone

the switch is telling the dme what's happening.

are you at idle, accelerating or decelerating and meters fuel as needed.

that's why you hear the click as it's opened, acceleration or increasing engine speed.

you need to connect the probes to the correct pins.

the idle stop must be set correctly.

continuity:
set meter to ohms position.
use a small piece of wire noticing what the meter reads. connect the probes at each end and it will show infinity.

same thing happens when the tps opens/clicks.

87951

lleroyb

"continuity:
set meter to ohms position.
use a small piece of wire noticing what the meter reads. connect the probes at each end and it will show infinity."

I think this is bassakwards

Lou

bearone

you're right.
thanks

87951

testarossa_td

He has tons of really good info on his website!

http://www.arnnworx.com/tps-repair.htm

Don't forget to wander around, you won't regret it.