washington951

schmedes - you bet!
that panel is basically made from the plastic lid of a radio shack 'project box' - they come with two lids one plastic, one aluminum.

pull the ashtray out and take it to the store in order to find one thats the right size.

take the ashtray and trace the outline onto the project box lid and then be very careful cutting, filing, etc until you get it down to the right size. if i remember right, one side of the lid is THE EXACT length of the short side of the panel - but then you need to file down the other sides to fit - its not square, as you'll find. its held down mainly by friction (don't go crazy filing it down!) and two wood screws that fit perfectly in the existing, countersunk holes that were in the project box lid - on the leading edge - the one nearest the shifter. the screws go into some of the overlap of the leather that covers the console - nothing real firm, but it holds fine.

measure and cut out the slot for the V1 control. i superglued some small 90 degree brackets on the bottom of the panel and then just zip tied in the V1 control - the friction holds it there because it bottoms out on the transmission tunnel. position it pretty far forward as its the deepest part of the console - and its also easiest to run the V1.

you'll also have to probably cut a little of the carpet on the top of the trans tunnel away to make enough clearance for the connectors on the back of the V1, but it'll fit.

then it's just a matter of fishing the lines up thru the console and to the steering column and the main V1 unit on the windshield.
it's a good setup.

shaping the plastic and cutting out the slot for the V1 unit was done mainly with a file and a dremel. be careful not to scratch the panel while you're shaping it.

hope it helps - its MUCH better than the ashtray!!!

let me know if you have other questions....

schmedes1

That is excellent on the V1 remote info... I also need to know your tricks on the install of the display in the dash... feel free to PM me so I can call if a detailed discussion. Im a non smoker and a "non speeder", hope you stay a part of Rennlist even after you sell your nice ride to some lucky person!!!

washington951

behind the dash:
remove bezel/dash surround (the one that goes all the way around to the right and around the a/c vents...you can do it without removing the wheel - just be careful and go slow....look at www.clarks-garage.com and select 'garage shop manual' on the left, and then 'gauges - late 944 gauge removal' for the procedure and location of all the screws...but i've never taken the wheel off.)

the 'glass' on mine simply pulled straight off - it 'clicked' but wasn't glued. i've heard others have had more difficulty.

on the lower left side of the gauge pod, just dremel out a small notch for the V1 phone cable to come thru. make sure you're doing it someplace that isn't visible when you put the glass and the surround back on. its pretty simple. get some good quality double-sided foam tape to secure the display unit and also cut some down to secure the cable.

it's not 100% flat in there, but you should be able to find a suitable place to anchor the box. it's trial and error in there as far as finding sneaky places to run the cable so its not seen. (you run it to the left side since thats the side where the cable plugs into the V1 display)

i tried to do mine so that if i ever wanted to, it could be removed and you couldn't ever tell it was there and i think i did pretty well.

hope that helps.

Robby

Hey Brian- have you considered the 993's? Just curious... There's a lot to be said for the 996- I really do like them, but I like the looks of hte 993, both inside & outside, a lot better... the 996 chassis is better, as are it's aerodynamics, etc... But, either way, the 993 was the first w/the awesome multi-link suspension, so your's world's above any 951 there... AAMOF, that's probably my biggest gripe about the 944 world- no multi-link...

As for your price- well, at first I thought it was a tad high considering the miles, etc- Ahmet just sold his '89 w/57k miles on it for ~$15k... I think he started @ $16k- this was stock except for Vitesse chips. Your car has twice the miles, but has a lot more cool things done to it. So, considering you're in no rush to sell it, you might be ok- especially since spring is right around the corner & you'll be more likely to get offers then- if calls don't pick up in March/April, you can always pull the asking price back $1k or so & keep trying...

thanks a lot for all your help- would like to see some pics of the V1 install, etc if you have them. Hopefully I'll remember the question I had about the Euro's soon enough to ask you... Something popped into my head one night while driving, but popped right out again when I got in front of my computer... happens a lot...

nize

brian; i think the price is right for a car of that calibre, history, maintenance, and condition. it's higher than other 951's, but it also needs absolutely nothing.

ZPmadA

Your absolutely right. Your price is good and someone that knows these cars will know how quickly a cheap 951 can turn into a very expensive 951. Pay now or pay later. I rather pay now and drive instead of have it sitting in the shop.

zerMATT951

Brian - Did I miss pictures of the V1 remote & display? I've read your write-up, but I have no idea what the final product looks like

washington951

you can see the setup if you go to the link of the pics here:
http://tinyurl.com/bq859
i have others, too - i just have not had the time to post! hopefully tonight or tomorrow night....
thanks!

washington951

dyno sheet is up at the same site:
http://tinyurl.com/bq859

if you've been there before, you may want to hit 'reload' if the sheet doesn't show for you the first time - its the last pic at the bottom.

thanks

Robby

Brian- do you have any pics of your front speakers- the speakers themselves, behind the armrest grill? Also, did you actually mount one of them at the front lower location? This is where most people put 6.5's if mounting up front, actually. I'm trying to mount a 3-way component system & seeveral other's are looking into stereo mods too that I'm keeping up with, so any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Do you know what sizes the front speakers are? Also, did you actually replace the rear speakers under the 1/4 window? You said you still had 10 speakers, is why I ask...

zerMATT951

Brian - thanks for the link. That car is beautiful! It's got a few *very minor* flaws, but otherwise a great example. I'm always watching Turbo S prices in Pano and other places, and your price seems to be right in line. If I was in the market and had the cash...

washington951

robby - i don't have any pics of the fronts. the PO did the install and i've only had the panels off once to install the window express units. but i know there are 2 drivers in each door pocket area. wish i could give you more info.

i cannot honestly tell you if the speaker under the 1/4s were replaced - they DO emit sound - good sound, but i'm not sure.

the ten are:
6x9 3-ways in the rear cubbys
under the 1/4s
2 in EACH door pocket area (4 total)
tweeters in each door - stock location.

Robby

IF, for some reason, you remove one of those pockets, please take a pic... I'd love to see what they are... it's just a few screws, but I'm not asking you to do it just for that, unless you just want to know too....? Also, IF you're getting sounbd from the under 1/4 window speakers, well, there are two there (including tweets), then you it sounds like you have 12 speakers... assuming there are two behind the armrest & tweeters up top... So, it sounds like you have two extra channels- how are you getting sound from all 6 then...? Is one pair hooked to the HU & the others to a 4-ch amp, or, do you possibly have a 6-ch amp? I'm just curious... no big deal if you don't know...

thanks
Robby

zerMATT951

Robby - running several speakers off just a few "channels" is really no big deal. That entire car could be run off a 2-channel amp via serial/parallel wiring as long as you keep each channel's impedance in-spec for the amp output... 4, 2, 1, 1/2 ohm, etc.

Robby

Matt- yeah, I know you can do stuff like that but I always thought it could easily lead to problems w/overheating & such...? I don't know much about it... I was just wondering if it was something like that, where he was running 4 channels worth of speakers off of 2 amp channels, or if he was possibly using the HU to power two of the channels...? Also, not to start big tangent here, but, can you use all 4 HU channels to power just 2 speaker channels? Like you would if you bridged an amp to run 2 speakers off of 4 amp channels? I've been told both yes & no & have always wondered what the truth was...? Oh yeah, one last tangent... Did I ever ask you for pics of your car Matt...? I've PMed a few people here w/zermatt silver cars to get some good pics- I'm about to repaint my zermatt car & am wanting to make sure that I want zermatt & maybe not some other shade of silver... I can't remember who all I've contacted...

thanks