Chris, Are you talking standalone or different Chips, MAF etc.?

 

Thats interesting, you are the first person i have seen post that they are running a stage 2 (v's the stage 3) turbine on the hotside. Your peak torque is nice and early too. whats the coldside?
Actually i notice that this is the same dyno chart as posed on the SFR website under their stage 1 turbo.

 

check that there is a vacuum signal at the heater control valve & then
listen under the dash on the USA passenger side, if u hear rushing air then possibly your heater control valve in the engine bay is worn out & leaking vacuum.

 

Standalone. For example here is a dyno chart from a very similar set up as the original post –
Stock engine with TO4E (in fact it was a SFR stage 2 with #8 hot side) and other very similar mods except it had an Electromotive Tec3 and 72 lb injectors. The boost was at 18-19 lbs. (holy crap, that’s dated back on 2002!!)

I have to confess that as an Electromotive dealer I might be just a tad biased….I will go on to say that John at Vitesse is finally making DME based engine management look pretty good too.

There are lots of old threads with engine management info, have fun searching up the good ones!

Chris White

 

Oh yeah –
Black = torque (350 ft lbs)
Red = HP (370hp)
Blue = boost
Green = AFR

 

Chris, Those are nice numbers. I actually have a Perfect Power PRS8 that I might use. I have had a little success using the SMT6 piggyback on my 1.8T Corrado. On my VWs I like to keep the ECU since the later model electronics handle a lot more of the car's functions.

The setup on the 951 doesn't seem to do much more than engine management. Do you lose any other functions when you go standalone?

I also noticed that the torque falls off more than yours does. It goes to 340 but is only 250 at 6200 rpm? Any ideas?

 

Halley, I assume the torque comes in a bit sooner because the smaller turbine spools quicker. I see most people use a straight T04 rather than a hybrid T3/T4. It would seem that the T3/T4 would spool quicker and give sufficient boost with a big enough compressor. See JimboIIII's post. Its actually a stage 2 with a stage 3 hotside. Actually I'm not familiar with the 26/6, 8.... terminology, I'm used to using the AR numbers. Can you translate?

I have the receipt from when JimboIIII bought it and it says stage 2 with stage 3 turbine, so they may be taking a little poetic license, or the may have changed their specs since the turbo was sold.

Re: The heater problem. I found that one of the flap motors was toast, but I swapped it out for a used one and still no joy. I just got a wiring digram and it now looks like its either fuse 17 or the heater control unit in the dash. I put vacuum directly to the heater control valve and it turned off the heat.

 

Chris, do you use a 60-1 wheel with the TEC3, or does it run off the existing flywheel signals (or distributor)? Also do you mount the box where the stock DME and KLR are located?

 

That turbo is a sfr stage 2 with a #8 stage 3 turbine. For 350rwhp you will have to run 22+ psi. Or make changes to the head and/or cam, piggyback to improve efficiency. The guru chips run a little lean down low. trying to dial it out is hard with the arc2. It's a great street turbo because of how fast it spools and maintains boost to redline. The dyno run was done on pump gas and 18 or so psi. It's a solid performer. I'd say 20% better than a k27/8.

 

Thanks for the update I got my information from the guy you sold the car to. I'm going away for a week, but when I get back, I'll run my LM-1 on it and try to dial in the AFR.

 

Ok, a couple of answers –
The only functionally lost with the Tec3 standalone is the factory boost gauge, if you have to have it, it can remain if you keep the KLR hooked up. I even use an A/C on signal to bump up the idle 200 rpm. I will agree that on more modern cars the ECU does a lot more stuff, but it is fairly ‘primitive’ on our cars…
The Tec3 is located where the DME used to be.
I use a laser cut 60-1 gear made up to fit inside the belt cover.
The turbo in my dyno chart is just about identical - SFR stage 2 w/#8 hotside. Keep in mind that the ‘stage’ numbers are just a starting point….there are different trims and such.
As for the torque drop off – I would play with the ignition timing to optimize that (that’s where the standalone comes in!). The engine in question should have as good or better breathing than my dyno chart engine.

Chris White

 

Chris, thanks, that's valuable input. Where can I source a 60-1 wheel and sensor? Is there anything to be gained by gasket matching the intake manifold and head? I'm not looking to to any real porting, just cleanup and a little polishing.

 

Halley, The heater problem is fixed. Turned out that when the flapper motor went out it blew fuse 17.

 

Forgot to mention that the turbo has a single bb on the exhaust side.

 

Yeah - I wouldn't worry about that super-accurate-Space shuttle technology factory boost guage, that's about as useful as a one-legged man in an ***-kicking contest.

I bought a 968 guage cluster just so I wouldn't have to see that piece of ****.