RolexNJ

Will do.

pstickne

I found these while looking for random parts for my car:

http://www.autoatlanta.com/model/944...g/944-108.html

No need to make your own

RolexNJ

Why thank you for your help. It's appreciated.

Cheers,

MPD47

Rob about your wheels, you could always get new barrels for them. Much cheaper than buying a new set and it would solve some of the issues you're having with going wider (either tire, or body wise). Personally, I'm going to a 295/265 combo on my car.

tconn

Rob
Why not just get a set of CCW's. I think I paid about $1800 including shipping.
Mutch cheaper than modifying the body.
I run 285's in the rear and there in plenty of room left. 295's would fit easily.

porshhhh951

please post up info. Was 1800 for 18's???

I am looking for new wheels. any info is appreciated

tconn

John
The wheels 10x18 rear 9x18 front. They are a three piece forged racing wheel.
Very light.
The company is "Complete Custom Wheel" they have a web site.
Lots of options. These are true custom wheels.

MPD47

Unfortunetly the 18inch CCW Classics are not really 18's, they use the 17inch centers and to be honest I wasnt pleased with them. Their 17inch Classics rock, but the 18's are just, well the middle child IMO. Yes, in track finish they can be had for ~$1800, have to add more for finish options and shipping.

RolexNJ

Mike: Where do you get barrels from? And how would I know what size to get and would fit on my rims? And you're gonna run that size, wow! But those are going to be on fully customized CCWs, right? For me at this point, I want to go as MattH said to me, but maybe go to 295s in the rear. I want to keep the rims I have now and do that. In the future though, I'm gonna buy CCW rims, so that's a different story.

Tim: I hear you my friend, just like Mike said. In the future, I will buy custom ones. But I want to use what I have, they are brand spanking new and in mint shape.

944CS

You have SO3's on now....if you are having traction issues, instead of spending money on bodywork, why not spend it on R-Compound tires first and see if that will help the car become more controllable
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/comp.jsp

MPD47

Yeah, I'm going to start working out the details on offsets etc in a few weeks. Right now my car is sitting on a bronze set of Cup II's with some dry rotted Pirelli race rubber. Anyway, I sent you an email with some more stuff about wheel choices from what I've found.

RolexNJ

Thanks. As per the advice of Anders too, I will look into it. But I still need wider tires without a doubt.

Mike: Got the email pal, thanks. And I love CCWs big time!

FSAEracer03

Truer words have never been spoken. Fiberglass components, even when layed perfectly, braced securely, and painted well, won't look good in short time.

Furthermore, every AIR body panel I've had to work with has been a complete disaster. They're molds aren't updated enough; the pieces don't replicate the factory pieces well; etc, etc, etc. They work well on racecars to drop weight, but they are by no means pretty.

DrRon

Rolex - I know you are not interested in a racing set up for your car, but nevertheless our experiences may be of use to you.

Our racer has a wide-body conversion (see http://home.wanadoo.nl/r.verheijen/9...derdag2005.htm for shape, ignore the text, it is in Dutch). The conversion allows you to run about 4.5 inch more track front and rear - the rear of the car was changed (the sheetmetal wheel covers of the car itself, you cannot really just glue on the extensions) so that it has the capability of running 22 wheels with 350 width).

Our weight distribution is 51% front, 49% rear (it can be set), and we are running approx 4 degrees of negative camber. With the narrow shape, we were running 235 Dunlop racing tires in front, and 265 in the rear - the wheels have an ET of 50, and at full turn, the fronts would rub; for the rears we rolled the fender lips. The standard behaviour of the car was strong understeer (tendency to low straight on in corners), and the tires would be killed within a day (I think these cars should be run with front and rear tire width identical or very close).

With the wide-body, we are now running 265 Pirelli in front, and 285 in the rear (this seems wider than the 265 Dunlops, but it is not - the 265 Dunlop racing tire is comparable to 285 Pirelli - Sweanders - I am guessing this might be the reason why you found that the Cup wheels were wider than the tire?). Understeer is mostly gone, turn-in very precise, and the tire wear is better (we get 4 days out of a tire at least) - so it looks like we need to finalize this setup, running 10J in front, and 11J in the rear, with an ET of 5 to fill the space.

On the basis of this, I would say that with your kind of power, I would go for 10J wheels in front, and maybe 12's in the rear, with at least 305 Pirelli-size.

Hope this helps....