ivai

Yup.. it sucks. I pressurized the intake system from the intercooler-in hose, and I had one leak at the big T-connector half way down the brake booster line (didn't laust or someone manufacture metal replacements for this plastic coupler?) and i just clamped down the hoses on it, that seemed to work.

Additionally, I was loosing a TON of air from the intake manifold gaskets. When I hit full (15psi) boost I hear a huge PSHHHH and smell gas, so thats probably the culprit. I'm taking off the intake manifold this morning and replacing the gaskets with new ones, but I'm also going to use some Permatex high-temp rtv silicone gasket maker to help seal the new gaskets, since I put in these previous gaskets only recently.

The package says it needs 24 hours to cure... but I tend to think it will be ready in less than that for me, since i'm using this as a "dressing" rather than a "gasket maker"

I'm also going to make sure that the head and manifold are as clean as possible... I hadn't been able to get off 100% of the original gaskets from the first time i pulled the manifold.. I guess it really does need to be super duper smooth otherwise you'll lose air and gas! (and have crappy vacuum)

Anyways, I can't wait to get this sealed up. Loosing gas and air can't possibly help my power output! Gonna be a par-tay when this stuff is done

hosrom_951

Do you'reself a favour and replace all the hoses, Lindsey have a nice kit that (venturi delete) which includes a new brake booster hose and the ISV hoses.

As for that plastic piece, Laust did make some (or one), i deleted that by using Laust's vacuum manifold.

ivai

Hosrom, thanks for the suggestion, but I've already done that :P I also have Laust's vacuum manifold.. Can you hook up whatever that vacuum line is anywhere you like? I cut the new brake booster line I got from lindsey just to put that stupid T-connector back in. I guess that was dumb :/

shortyboy

how much is your in. hg. at idle?its on the boost gauge.you could tell you got a leak if you got low #s there also.theres a diagram on here somewhere,just search it,its very usefull.

ivai

Its about 14 or so.. Like I said I'm losing a ton of air from the IM gaskets right now, so I'm hoping that once I fix that, it'll be closer to 20

hosrom_951

Jeff,
The brake hose on my car is one continuous hose from the brake booster to the intake manifold.

That plastic T piece on the brake booster hose is for the climate control flap vacuum line, i connected that line to laust's vacuum manifold, eliminating that plastic piece.

Zero10

20 is a little optimistic, but maybe 16-18" Hg at idle would be nice.
I get 10, but my throttle body has come apart, and I have a bad BOV. (being at this high of an elevation doesn't help either).

As far as the intake manifold gaskets go, my advice is to install them with a light coating of oil on them. This helps keep them from drying out, and from sticking to either the head or the intake manifold if they ever need to be removed again.
I installed mine in this fashion, and after 6k miles they did not leak at all. Also, when I had to pull the head, they came off like butter, and I re-used them. Gave them another light smear of oil when I re-installed them, and they still don't leak

Everybody here uses a different method, and I am not certain any one is better than another, but that is how I do it.

As far as getting the old gaskets off goes, I use a putty knife, and a little bit of emery paper if things are really stuck.

DDP

Does this work? Can anyone else confirm this?

schnellfahrer

Bump

hosrom_951

Umm, i have been runing this set-up since January 2005 when got the venturi delete kit from LR and started a thread on this.

I can go out and take pictures, give me 1hr for the charging the batteries.


I also asked Laust about this in his vacuum manifold thread.

35thSLP

you can rmove the "T" from the brake vacuum hose and and connect the vacuum for the climate control to the vacuum manifold Laust makes. You need to leave the check valve in the vacuum line tothe climate control or it won't work properly all the time.

hosrom_951

Right, the check valve to to allow vacuum, hence closing the flaps when the recirculation button is on, boost would open the flaps.